When Chrysler built the Challenger SRT8, they recommended Mobil 1 oil in the SRT8. Since the bankrupcy, they are using Quaker State synthetic. I found out because my second oil change at the dealership; the receipt didn't tell the brand of oil. I called the service dept, and pushed the issue, and was told Quaker State. I don't like Quaker State, and the next time I come in for service that I want Mobil 1 put in my Challenger. And I will call a day ahead of time so they can get it.

Another reason why I change my own oil.

Ditto. I like the feeling of getting up underneath my car and changing the oil. There's nothing like torquing the oil drain bolt to just the right specs everytime.

I know the dealer says we can use 5w40 but I'm sticking with 0w40 Mobil 1, plus, it matches the oil filler cap.

When I questioned my dealer on the issue, he told me that if I requested it, they would get the "spec" oil, no problem! "Spec", being the Mobil 1. They are a good bunch of guys there and the service manager great to deal with, even though on my Magnum, I was pretty anal about things.

Manufacturers specify Mobil 1 on the cap because Mobil 1 was paying them for the endorsement. Chrysler switched because they weren't getting the $ from Mobil 1 anymore. Any oil that meets or exceeds the Mobil 1 specification is fine; use synthetic in the proper weight and you will be fine. I would use Mobil 1 over Quaker State or Pennzoil any day. I would use Castrol over Mobil 1 and I would use Valvoline over any other as long as it was available in the correct weight. Just my thoughts......

Regardless, I do mine as well and put what's on the cap. You can't go wrong. A million people can tell you so many different things, in the end none of them built the car unless their the engineers.

Mine was built after BK (7-30) and still came with the Mobil 1 oil cap.

I use Royal Purple 0w40, leave the bottles in a box in the trunk, the service writer puts CUSTOMER FURNISHED OIL on the ticket. Total cost, including labor, Mopar oil filter, environmental fee and taxes is $17.48. This could just as easily be Mobil 1 or Amsoil. To me, that's great, not only does it get recorded in my car's service history, but I get to sip coffee and watch HDTV in their customer lounge.

Manufacturers specify Mobil 1 on the cap because Mobil 1 was paying them for the endorsement. Chrysler switched because they weren't getting the $ from Mobil 1 anymore. Any oil that meets or exceeds the Mobil 1 specification is fine; use synthetic in the proper weight and you will be fine. I would use Mobil 1 over Quaker State or Pennzoil any day. I would use Castrol over Mobil 1 and I would use Valvoline over any other as long as it was available in the correct weight. Just my thoughts......

I thought it may have had something to do with the bankruptcy and Mobil 1 cut them off due to non payment. Anyone correct if I am wrong.

I thought it may have had something to do with the bankruptcy and Mobil 1 cut them off due to non payment. Anyone correct if I am wrong.

That's the impression that I got too!

I brought this issue up 8/5/09 during a round table with the SRT Engineers, here is what I asked and thier reply:
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SRTEngineers

08-05-2009 06:55 PM


Quote:

Originally Posted by MarylandSRT8 (Post 2416192)
Initially our 6.1L were designed to use 0W40 Mobil 1, its on the oil cap and in the SRT's car manual. The bankruptcy brought about a falling out with Mobil 1, now all the dealerships are using 5W40 in the SRT 6.1L motor. From an engineering perspective is this change OK for the 6.1L? Why the change in viscosity? Thank you.


Yes the change in viscosity from the 0W to the 5W will only show up in very low ambiant conditions (-20deg and lower). The closest synthetic oil from Penzoil/Quaker/Shell available for all of our sales areas required this small change in low end viscosity. In truth any quality synthetic oil with 0-10W40 multivis oil will be fine for your 6.1L. If you are running it hard or in very hot climes use the 10W40 (or even 15W50 on the track). If running in very cold climes move it down 0 or 5W40.
KC

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I still plan to change my own oil moving forward and plan to stick with Mobil 1.

I use Royal Purple 0w40, leave the bottles in a box in the trunk, the service writer puts CUSTOMER FURNISHED OIL on the ticket. Total cost, including labor, Mopar oil filter, environmental fee and taxes is $17.48. This could just as easily be Mobil 1 or Amsoil. To me, that's great, not only does it get recorded in my car's service history, but I get to sip coffee and watch HDTV in their customer lounge.

Plus $70 for the oil, though, right? :)

Plus $70 for the oil, though, right? :)

Not quite that much.:)

Point being, the cost to put it in is low enough I let the dealer do it. I could buy less expensive synthetic oil, the dealer doesn't make a cent off of it, so it doesn't matter to them.

I like to do my own oil changes as well. No guess work here , i buy the oil and filter and there's no worries. I still have my "free" oil change coupon from the dealer where i bought my car . I just dont trust them to put in the right oil. And that may seem anal to some, but i worked in a dealer and i know what goes on , they dont have the right oil and they put in the so-called equivelent and that could be any barrel grade crap they have. Its sad but true.

The 2010 Chrysler Information brochure shows 5w40 as the factory fill oil.

I have a question (and I might be showing my ignorance). I know numerous cars are running on synthetics straight from the factory. Do the synthetics allow for enough friction when the engine is new so components can be properly broken in? Are the engines "broken in" at the factory? thanks.

I have a question (and I might be showing my ignorance). I know numerous cars are running on synthetics straight from the factory. Do the synthetics allow for enough friction when the engine is new so components can be properly broken in? Are the engines "broken in" at the factory? thanks.
Most modern engines don't need the break in anymore.Read here https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx

Most modern engines don't need the break in anymore.Read here https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx
Thanks, good article...