The other night there was a bad lightning storm.

When I went to unlock my 2011 Challenger SE after work, there was absolutely no response from the car when I hit the button on the key. The spare key was not working either.

The next day I had it towed to the dealer who ended up having to disconnect and reconnect the battery in order to reset the faulty system. The mechanic at the dealership told me that 3 other Challengers were brought in experiencing the exact same problem. The only reason they could come up with for this was the intense electrical storm we had the night before.

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up. If you ever experience this problem all you have to do is disconnect the battery, wait 5 to 10 minutes, reconnect and it should be fixed.

As you stated the button or the KEY would not unlock your car. How did you get to the battery?

Good question Eliminator. Im guessing the manual/metal key and through the backs seat. I guess we'll have to wait and see though.

Aside from electrical storms, on average, it's best to replace the lithium 3V coin cell in your key Fob RKE transmitters at the two year mark. If you wait longer, the chance of RKE failure grows until it no longer has enough power to operate your door locks and ignition system. At 2.7 V, you're in trouble. I found out the hard way.

http://www.ladyada.net/images/metertutorial/deadcoin.jpg

Also when you check a battery with a high impedance voltmeter, you are checking the battery no load voltage.

For example, I checked a keyfob battery with voltmeter and got 2.82 volts. When I applied a 1mA load to the battery (very low load), the voltage dropped to 2.50 volts.

Not sure what the keyfob draws on various functions.

You have to unlock the door with the hard key located inside your key fob, then crawl through the back seat and manually open the trunk.

You have to unlock the door with the hard key located inside your key fob, then crawl through the back seat and manually open the trunk.

I've also heard that you can hook a jumper cable to the positive connection under the hood and pop the trunk that way. Never had to try though. I'm 6'3" 285lbs so I think I will try that first when bat. goes dead.

My key fob on my 2010 wasnt responding...it would be in the car and say key not detected....turns out there was a recall on that key. Got it replaced. Works perfect now they actually reprogrammed a 392 key for me

I am have a problem with my keyfob it will lock n unlock doors but when I go to start the car it's say key fob not detect can anyone help me before I go spend money to get it tow

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AutoGuide.Com Free App

I am have a problem with my keyfob it will lock n unlock doors but when I go to start the car it's say key fob not detect can anyone help me before I go spend money to get it tow

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AutoGuide.Com Free App


The same thing happened to my 2009 SRT. I was glad to know, from this forum, how to pop the ignition button and manually start it. After the dealer reflashed it, I haven't had the problem. What year is your Challenger?

Just went thru the locks not working and keyfob not detected. The dealer did the TSB reflash updates and it worked for 1 day. They ordered and replaced both key fobs and so far so good.

Just went thru the locks not working and keyfob not detected. The dealer did the TSB reflash updates and it worked for 1 day. They ordered and replaced both key fobs and so far so good.

Same here. Just had both key fobs replaced on my '10 R/T.

The fobiks have been superceded a bunch of times and are mutch better now.

My 2009 SRT fobs stopped working also. 2 trips to dealer and they had me replace the fobs at $180 each. (I got one)
Weird that both fobs quit at same time. (yes I replaced battery first)
I used the hard key hidden in fob to unlock door and popped out the button to shove the fob in and start. I had no issues accessing trunk with trunk button on dash.