GearheadDiva
01-02-2012, 02:54 PM
One of the first things I did on my Challenger SRT8 was swap out the stock exhaust for Mopar's Cat-back system. It sounds great!
I put together this video of the install process in case it helps any of you out. I written instructions below it.
How to Install a Cat-back Exhaust System, 2010 Challenger - YouTube
RAID YOUR TOOLBOX & CHECK THE GOODS
Be sure to have all the tools you'll need for both removal of your current exhaust and installation of the new one. Take a moment to confirm that your new exhaust kit came with all the correct parts. Also inspect your new pipes to be sure there's no visible damage. Pipe openings can get bent if they are dropped during shipping.
My tool list looked like this:
13mm wrench or socket (for removing the stock exhaust)
15mm wrench or socket (for installing the new exhaust)
10 - 12" extension (for reaching the bolts on the hangers)
Ratchet (mine is a 3/8")
Torque wrench
Grommet puller (if you have one but it's not necessary)
Lubricant like WD-40 or soapy water (the alternative if you don't have a grommet puller)
Safety glasses
REMOVING THE UNWORTHY STOCK EXHAUST
The current exhaust comes out in two pieces: a driver's side rear section and then the rest of the exhaust from the X-pipe to the passenger side exhaust tip. You'll need to re-use the factory hangers and grommets so take care not to damage them.
1. Loosen the nuts and bolts at the flange connection on the driver side of the tunnel muffler using a 13mm wrench or socket.
2. Remove the driver side factory hangers from the chassis using your 13mm socket and a 10 - 12" extension attached to your ratchet. They are located just to the front and rear of the rear muffler.
3. Remove the driver side axle pipe hangers from the grommet using either grommet pullers or lubricant to help slide the hanger off the grommet. Once loose, carefully remove the rear driver side section of the stock exhaust from your car.
4. With the driver side rear section on the floor or work bench, remove the grommets and chassis hangers from the stock muffler and replace them in the original factory positions on the car. Torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs.
5. If you have a crossbar over your X-pipe, you'll have to remove that first in order to remove the remaining exhaust portion.
6. Remove the grounding clip from the passenger side rear muffler.
7. Repeat step 2 above and remove the factory hangers near the rear muffler on the passenger side using a 13mm socket and a 10 - 12" extension attached to your ratchet.
8. Switch to a 15mm socket or wrench to loosen the clamps at the front of the stock exhaust system.
9. Finally, remove the passenger side axle pipe hanger form the rubber grommet and take out the large remaining portion of your stock exhaust system.
10. With the remaining large section either on the floor or a work bench, repeat step 4 by removing the grommets along with the chassis hangers from the stock exhaust and replace them in their factory positions on the car. Again, torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs.
INSTALLING THE RIGHTEOUS CAT-BACK EXHAUST
Before you get started, it's important to apply anti-seize lubricant to the threads portion of all the clamps and flange bolts. If you forget to do this, it can cause nuts to seize on the clamps and potentially destroy your threads. After you apply anti-seize, be sure to clean your hands or change your gloves because the lubricant will tarnish your stainless steel.
It's also best to use your hand ratchet or torque wrench rather than an air impact gun because that can damage the clamp and reduce its ability to effectively seal the joint. It may also cause the joint to separate which will damage your exhaust.
1. Start with the X-pipe and slip two clamps over the inlet side. Slide the new X-pipe over the stock pipes until it completely bottoms out. Use a 15mm socket or wrench to pre-tighten the clamps but leave them loose enough to make adjustments later.
2. Continue with the driver side axle pipe by slipping a clamp over the inlet side and then slide it onto the X-pipe assembly. Insert the hanger through the grommet above using either a grommet puller or lubricant. Pre-tighten the clamps but leave a little play.
3. Repeat step 2 for the passenger side axle pipe.
4. Take the passenger side muffler and slip a clamp over the inlet end and slide it onto the passenger side axle pipe. Insert both hangers through the grommets above. Don't forget to re-attach the ground clip onto the muffler hanger. Pre-tighten the clamp but leave a little play.
5. Repeat the process with the driver side muffler by slipping a clamp over the inlet side and sliding it onto the axle pipe. Insert the hangers into the grommets and pre-tighten the clamps.
MAKING FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
1. Center the tips by rotating and twisting the axle pipes until the exhaust tips are evenly centered with the rear fascia.
2. Once you're happy with the placement of the tips go ahead and start tightening all the clamps starting from the front of the exhaust system to the back making small adjustments to keep your tips centered. Torque the clamps to 45 ft-lbs.
3. Once everything is tight check clearances to your underbody components.
4. If you have a factory crossbar, replace it over the X-pipe and torque the nuts to 18 ft-lbs.
5. Finally, take your car for a test drive and then re-tighten all your clamps.
FIXING ALIGNMENT ISSUES
In my case the driver side muffler connection to the axle pipe was extremely tight so I had almost no play there. As a result I wasn't able to get the driver side's exhaust tip to center. But after driving the car around for a few days and then giving it another shot I found that the connection loosened up quite a bit and I was able to get it perfectly aligned on the second try.
Another trick is to heat up the hangers and adjust them up and down slightly until you get the placement you want.
I put together this video of the install process in case it helps any of you out. I written instructions below it.
How to Install a Cat-back Exhaust System, 2010 Challenger - YouTube
RAID YOUR TOOLBOX & CHECK THE GOODS
Be sure to have all the tools you'll need for both removal of your current exhaust and installation of the new one. Take a moment to confirm that your new exhaust kit came with all the correct parts. Also inspect your new pipes to be sure there's no visible damage. Pipe openings can get bent if they are dropped during shipping.
My tool list looked like this:
13mm wrench or socket (for removing the stock exhaust)
15mm wrench or socket (for installing the new exhaust)
10 - 12" extension (for reaching the bolts on the hangers)
Ratchet (mine is a 3/8")
Torque wrench
Grommet puller (if you have one but it's not necessary)
Lubricant like WD-40 or soapy water (the alternative if you don't have a grommet puller)
Safety glasses
REMOVING THE UNWORTHY STOCK EXHAUST
The current exhaust comes out in two pieces: a driver's side rear section and then the rest of the exhaust from the X-pipe to the passenger side exhaust tip. You'll need to re-use the factory hangers and grommets so take care not to damage them.
1. Loosen the nuts and bolts at the flange connection on the driver side of the tunnel muffler using a 13mm wrench or socket.
2. Remove the driver side factory hangers from the chassis using your 13mm socket and a 10 - 12" extension attached to your ratchet. They are located just to the front and rear of the rear muffler.
3. Remove the driver side axle pipe hangers from the grommet using either grommet pullers or lubricant to help slide the hanger off the grommet. Once loose, carefully remove the rear driver side section of the stock exhaust from your car.
4. With the driver side rear section on the floor or work bench, remove the grommets and chassis hangers from the stock muffler and replace them in the original factory positions on the car. Torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs.
5. If you have a crossbar over your X-pipe, you'll have to remove that first in order to remove the remaining exhaust portion.
6. Remove the grounding clip from the passenger side rear muffler.
7. Repeat step 2 above and remove the factory hangers near the rear muffler on the passenger side using a 13mm socket and a 10 - 12" extension attached to your ratchet.
8. Switch to a 15mm socket or wrench to loosen the clamps at the front of the stock exhaust system.
9. Finally, remove the passenger side axle pipe hanger form the rubber grommet and take out the large remaining portion of your stock exhaust system.
10. With the remaining large section either on the floor or a work bench, repeat step 4 by removing the grommets along with the chassis hangers from the stock exhaust and replace them in their factory positions on the car. Again, torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs.
INSTALLING THE RIGHTEOUS CAT-BACK EXHAUST
Before you get started, it's important to apply anti-seize lubricant to the threads portion of all the clamps and flange bolts. If you forget to do this, it can cause nuts to seize on the clamps and potentially destroy your threads. After you apply anti-seize, be sure to clean your hands or change your gloves because the lubricant will tarnish your stainless steel.
It's also best to use your hand ratchet or torque wrench rather than an air impact gun because that can damage the clamp and reduce its ability to effectively seal the joint. It may also cause the joint to separate which will damage your exhaust.
1. Start with the X-pipe and slip two clamps over the inlet side. Slide the new X-pipe over the stock pipes until it completely bottoms out. Use a 15mm socket or wrench to pre-tighten the clamps but leave them loose enough to make adjustments later.
2. Continue with the driver side axle pipe by slipping a clamp over the inlet side and then slide it onto the X-pipe assembly. Insert the hanger through the grommet above using either a grommet puller or lubricant. Pre-tighten the clamps but leave a little play.
3. Repeat step 2 for the passenger side axle pipe.
4. Take the passenger side muffler and slip a clamp over the inlet end and slide it onto the passenger side axle pipe. Insert both hangers through the grommets above. Don't forget to re-attach the ground clip onto the muffler hanger. Pre-tighten the clamp but leave a little play.
5. Repeat the process with the driver side muffler by slipping a clamp over the inlet side and sliding it onto the axle pipe. Insert the hangers into the grommets and pre-tighten the clamps.
MAKING FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
1. Center the tips by rotating and twisting the axle pipes until the exhaust tips are evenly centered with the rear fascia.
2. Once you're happy with the placement of the tips go ahead and start tightening all the clamps starting from the front of the exhaust system to the back making small adjustments to keep your tips centered. Torque the clamps to 45 ft-lbs.
3. Once everything is tight check clearances to your underbody components.
4. If you have a factory crossbar, replace it over the X-pipe and torque the nuts to 18 ft-lbs.
5. Finally, take your car for a test drive and then re-tighten all your clamps.
FIXING ALIGNMENT ISSUES
In my case the driver side muffler connection to the axle pipe was extremely tight so I had almost no play there. As a result I wasn't able to get the driver side's exhaust tip to center. But after driving the car around for a few days and then giving it another shot I found that the connection loosened up quite a bit and I was able to get it perfectly aligned on the second try.
Another trick is to heat up the hangers and adjust them up and down slightly until you get the placement you want.