Hello, I have a 2011 Dodge Challenger. I decided today to wash the car with a machine at the car wash, dry it with cloth, apply a paste wax by hand, wait for it to dry, remove the haze, and then clean the wheels:


-took me almost 5.5 hrs. is this normal? I remember paying a cra wash 30 bucks to do the car wash and wax with one of those buffing machines and I was out in 45 minutes.


-also do you think I did it wrong: It took me a REALLY long time to get the hazy wax once it dried completely off: I mean my finer tips were killing me....

Sounds like you might have used too much wax. That is a common mistake, alittle goes a long way with wax. BTW, what wax are you using??

I wash and wax my (classic) cars 2 times a year! takes me at least 4 hours each! :eyemouth:

That's why I've only waxed my truck twice in 10 years. The first was after its first wash and the second was when I washed it for the first time in about 6 years and realized it was heavily oxidized.

I hand applied a clear coat safe rubbing compound then hand waxed it and used a buffing machine and some polish to shine it up. The whole process took maybe 3 hours.

With the challenger, I just use a synthetic polish/wax like Turtle Wax ICE. I last applied it almost 8 months ago. I got caught in a rain storm and was surprised to see the water beading up and running off still.

Did you wax it in the shade? If you wax in the sun, it dries fast and is hard to get off.

It takes a long time if your really anal about doing it right.

As to trouble getting it off...
That could be the wax brand itself, as some brands are just a real bugger to get off.
Or as mentioned above doing it in the sun or on a hot car.

I like to put it on in very thin coats. Wax that doesn't touch the paint doesn't do you any good.

I use liquid wax and don't let it dry for very long. It's easier to remove and makes little difference as far as I can tell.

My tips:

- Change rags often. A waxy towel gets hard to use and ineffective. If you feel the rag is hard to rub turn it over or replace it.

- Wax in straight lines not circles. If you accidentally scratch the paint a straight scratch is harder to see than a swirl.

- Cover non painted items with a clean towel so you don't get wax on them.

- Use liquid wax not paste. Paste waxes can become hard and scratch.

- Use good wax like Meguires. Old fashioned Turtle Wax is no good. I've heard ICE is good though.

- Cleaner, rubbing compound, and polish are used to resolve (or create) problems with your paint. If you don't have problems don't use them they are abrasive.

- Waxy cars are much easier to wash. If you're car isn't waxed dust and pollen don't come off easily. You can tell if you dry the car with a white towel and the towel gets dirty.

- Waxing wheels is good, windows is not. Wax works on glass, but when the wax breaks down over time it makes the glass hazy until it's applied again. Same issue with Rain-x. Waxing wheels makes cleaning easier as dust doesn't stick as well.

- If you don't know how to use a machine don't use one. They can do a lot of damage.

Hello, I have a 2011 Dodge Challenger. I decided today to wash the car with a machine at the car wash, dry it with cloth, apply a paste wax by hand, wait for it to dry, remove the haze, and then clean the wheels:


-took me almost 5.5 hrs. is this normal? I remember paying a cra wash 30 bucks to do the car wash and wax with one of those buffing machines and I was out in 45 minutes.


-also do you think I did it wrong: It took me a REALLY long time to get the hazy wax once it dried completely off: I mean my finer tips were killing me....


Have you actually looked at the car? It's MASSIVE! Waxing the doors alone is a daunting task. Now try that with a three step waxing process. I have a Cyclo, so it's no so bad, but I still like to hand hax her from time to time.

wash, clay bar, wax, and buff will take some time. Meguires NXT 2.0 comes off really easy

wash, clay bar, wax, and buff will take some time. Meguires NXT 2.0 comes off really easy

I use the NXT as well, really like it.


But yeah, this car is just massive. I can't imagine trying to wax the new Charger. It just looks so much larger than the older one.

Washing is a good solid 1 1/2 hours for me. The wheels alone due to the brembo brake dust is ungodly and like nothing I've seen before. Rest of car, while big, isn't that bad. But like most of you guys, I'm anal and use multiple buckets and mitts, always wash everything carefully and carefully dry to avoid scratches.

As for waxing, don't use a wax, get a good paint sealant instead. Lots out there. Provide better/longer protection and easy on/easy off. I use Wolf Gang and Rejex, but Turtle Wax, Meguiars, and others all have their own sealants now. Zaino is also a big one, but its like joining a cult - those guys are nuts!

I can apply a sealant in 1/2 hour, let it sit for an hour or more, then remove in another 1/2 hour. All by hand. Bit of work as the doors and hood are massive, but comes off easy enough.

when waxing the hood, roof and rear deck.. go in straight lines front to back.
when doing the sides, go in straight lines up and down.. it helps the optical effect of the polish\wax, etc.

Guys thanks for the responses, so many great answers:

-I used soem old school Turtle Wax the past chip dip kind of wax
-I think I used too much wax. When the wax dries should the color be really white and hard to get out
-I ahd to rub it out with a microfiber really hard.

I used to sue the Ice Wax some were taking about, but IM not sure if it is lke a conventional wax.

Try meguire's tech wax. Its spreads on and comes off real easy.

Zaino is also a big one, but its like joining a cult - those guys are nuts!

I am guilty as a cult member. My friends all think I have lost my mind, lol. Its a labor of love, and once you try it you will never turn back, guaranteed.

yall must suck at waxing

I get it done using meguires gold and microfiber towers in about 45-55 minutes

however I keep my car spotless so its really easy to wax

instead of washing I dont drive it enough I use turtle wax bug/tar remover

might I suggest you switch to turtle wax ice

wax any car in about 15 minutes( I use it at car shows)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/blindpimp/CHALLENGER/SAM_0067.jpg

You must have small hands... ;)

Waxing and wiping Tech Wax takes me about 1.5 hours... (and that includes masking the stripes)...

This is why I had Simoniz Glass Coat put on at the dealer. I shouldn't have to wax for seven years ,or so they say.

Guys thanks for the responses, so many great answers:

-I used soem old school Turtle Wax the past chip dip kind of wax
-I think I used too much wax. When the wax dries should the color be really white and hard to get out
-I ahd to rub it out with a microfiber really hard.

I used to sue the Ice Wax some were taking about, but IM not sure if it is lke a conventional wax.

Some quick, random thoughts....

I agree with others that suggested you may be using too much. I also agree with the one member who said some products can be a real PITA when applied to thick. ....Finish Kare 1000P comes to mind.

Obviously, you should follow the manufacturer's directions but for traditional (apply, let dry and remove) products, you can typically do a "finger swipe test" if you are unsure if the product is ready to remove. Basically, use your finger and swipe across a section where the wax has hazed. If the paint underneath looks clear (with no smearing), it should be ready for removal.

A tip in the future is trying a quick detailer (QD) to aid in the removal of excess product. Test in a small area first to check compatibility/results before continuing on with the rest of the vehicle.

Something else to consider (which was also mentioned) is possibly switching to a more user-friendly product. There are a myriad of waxes, sealants and coatings available these days to choose from rather than putting up with something that is proving to be a bit finicky for you.

No problemo mi hombre! Gave Baby her inaugural hand wax job using a no frills McGuire's carnuba paste and I said "Job well done!" after exactly 6 solid hours. Mine polished up very well using a soft bath towel and then a micro fiber - flipping, wiping, flipping and wiping. I used the bath towel as the haze remover and then the micro fiber as a polisher. Perfecto!

This is why I had Simoniz Glass Coat put on at the dealer. I shouldn't have to wax for seven years ,or so they say.

THEY always tell the truth @dealerships ....

Folks referring to these cars as massive just cracks me up!!! You'd have a complete meltdown if you had to wax/polish my Ram 2500 Mega Cab....or my wifes' Suburban.....these are mid sized cars and hardly qualify as massive!!!!:pillepalle::pillepalle::pillepalle::pillepalle:: pillepalle::pillepalle::pillepalle::pillepalle::pillepalle:: pillepalle::pillepalle::pillepalle:

Have you actually looked at the car? It's MASSIVE! Waxing the doors alone is a daunting task. Now try that with a three step waxing process. I have a Cyclo, so it's no so bad, but I still like to hand hax her from time to time.

Take me about 1 hr to wash N dry

35 min to 45min to Glaze (Adams Brilliant Glaze)
35min to 45min to Wax (Adams Americana)

I glaze in between waxing, if I feel comtamination is buidling up the I stripe wash, clay and reapply glaze , wax.

As for waxing, don't use a wax, get a good paint sealant instead. Lots out there. Provide better/longer protection and easy on/easy off. I use Wolf Gang and Rejex, but Turtle Wax, Meguiars, and others all have their own sealants now. Zaino is also a big one, but its like joining a cult - those guys are nuts!



I have never used a sealant. You say mequiers has one? I have not seen it before. What's it called?

I use nxt 2.0 on the entire car. It usually takes me all morning and then some to fully wash and wax. I use mothers wax attack orbital. But I'm particular. My rims take the longest because I want insides to shine as much as possible. I take them off and do a full cleaning at least once a month and wash inside by hand every wash.




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As for waxing, don't use a wax, get a good paint sealant instead. Lots out there. Provide better/longer protection and easy on/easy off. I use Wolf Gang and Rejex, but Turtle Wax, Meguiars, and others all have their own sealants now. Zaino is also a big one, but its like joining a cult - those guys are nuts! I have never used a sealant. You say mequiers has one? I have not seen it before. What's it called?

I use nxt 2.0 on the entire car. It usually takes me all morning and then some to fully wash and wax. I use mothers wax attack orbital. But I'm particular. My rims take the longest because I want insides to shine as much as possible. I take them off and do a full cleaning at least once a month and wash inside by hand every wash.

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....if you have used NXT, you have essentially used a "sealant".

My advice? ....don't get hung up on classifications. There is no industry standard when it comes to terminology and detailing products. In this case, Meguiars chose to use the term "Wax" in the name of NXT Tech Wax because it is product marketed for the average consumer/DIY'er. The fact is, it is a blend of polymers and other synthetic components. Another example is Zaino Z-2 and Z-5. Both are labeled as a "polish" yet they have no abrasive characteristics and in fact are both sealants (Z-5 does have some filling ability however). I'm still not exactly sure what Sal's thinking was on that one.

Generally speaking, "sealants" are usually thought of as synthetic formulations and "waxes" as products derived mostly from natural wax components (i.e. carnauba). There are also blends, hybrids, cleaner waxes, AIO's (all in one's), etc.

Personally, I prefer to judge products based on their own characteristics and performance. There are so many with varying traits, formulations, blends, etc. that it's not always easy to clump them all into neat categories. There is nothing wrong with using a "wax" or any other type of LSP (last step product) if it meets your criteria and works well in your scenario.

As for Zaino's zealot-like following (or even companies like Adams, Griots or even Meguiars), you need to understand that many of their customers are typically average consumers usually in a state of transition from the limited experience of OTC/retail products they have used and have little knowledge of detailing (but are usually eager to learn more at this point). When they eventually try these products/systems, they can make quite impression and some will even believe there is nothing else on the market that is better.

....now, having said that, I will first say that I have been a long time user of Zaino products. ....and they are good products. However, there are a lot of other "good" products out there as well. I don't use Zaino exclusively or any product line for that matter. There are so many with varying characteristics, technologies, etc. for me to believe there is any one that is "best" for everyone. ....best for someone is another story.

What really matters in the end is that you find products, tools and techniques that work for you.

Going to Detail my 1977 Plymouth in the AM!!! Will start at 8:30 and plan on being finished with it around noon!!

....if you have used NXT, you have essentially used a "sealant".

My advice? ....don't get hung up on classifications. There is no industry standard when it comes to terminology and detailing products. In this case, Meguiars chose to use the term "Wax" in the name of NXT Tech Wax because it is product marketed for the average consumer/DIY'er. The fact is, it is a blend of polymers and other synthetic components. Another example is Zaino Z-2 and Z-5. Both are labeled as a "polish" yet they have no abrasive characteristics and in fact are both sealants (Z-5 does have some filling ability however). I'm still not exactly sure what Sal's thinking was on that one.

Generally speaking, "sealants" are usually thought of as synthetic formulations and "waxes" as products derived mostly from natural wax components (i.e. carnauba). There are also blends, hybrids, cleaner waxes, AIO's (all in one's), etc.

Personally, I prefer to judge products based on their own characteristics and performance. There are so many with varying traits, formulations, blends, etc. that it's not always easy to clump them all into neat categories. There is nothing wrong with using a "wax" or any other type of LSP (last step product) if it meets your criteria and works well in your scenario.

As for Zaino's zealot-like following (or even companies like Adams, Griots or even Meguiars), you need to understand that many of their customers are typically average consumers usually in a state of transition from the limited experience of OTC/retail products they have used and have little knowledge of detailing (but are usually eager to learn more at this point). When they eventually try these products/systems, they can make quite impression and some will even believe there is nothing else on the market that is better.

....now, having said that, I will first say that I have been a long time user of Zaino products. ....and they are good products. However, there are a lot of other "good" products out there as well. I don't use Zaino exclusively or any product line for that matter. There are so many with varying characteristics, technologies, etc. for me to believe there is any one that is "best" for everyone. ....best for someone is another story.

What really matters in the end is that you find products, tools and techniques that work for you.

Thanks kean, your info was helpful. So do I need to use a wax product also or is the nxt just a synthetic wax? Also I use the meguiars ultimate wash n wax is that to much wax products?


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Thanks kean, your info was helpful. So do I need to use a wax product also or is the nxt just a synthetic wax? Also I use the meguiars ultimate wash n wax is that to much wax products?

“Topping” LSP’s (last step products; waxes, sealants, coatings, etc.) is really a matter of individual preference. I would say that typically some folks who like to do this are looking for something extra aesthetically (i.e. typically using a traditional carnauba wax to top a sealant). This is usually associated with a warm glow vs. the reflective, shiny and sometimes plastic-y look of some synthetics. As for the rest who top LSP’s, I (IME) usually find that they are simply doing it because that is what someone told them they should.

Honestly, it comes down to your individual goals. As a personal suggestion, I would recommend keeping it simple. ….at least for now as you’re feeling things out. If you are happy with the overall performance of the NXT and the appearance it provides, there is really no need to top it with another LSP. If you want a little added “pop”, maybe a little extra protection or just want to keep that “just waxed look”, maybe you can think about integrating a quick wax (QW) or quick detailer(QD) into your wash routine. Remember, there is a myriad of products to choose from these days. If one isn’t cutting it for you, chances are there is another that will.

Some other random thoughts about topping….

Compatibility: Some sealants may not necessarily “play nice” with other products. This is where using a “system” or products from the same line that the manufacturer recommends could be your best bet. Topping a sealant that doesn’t bond well with your topper could mean that subsequent coats of the base product may be compromised and/or have other issues (i.e. application difficulties, streaking, durability/longevity issues, etc.).

Solvents: Some LSP’s will contain carrier solvents which can have the potential of compromising or actually removing some (or all) of the base product. Using a classic carnauba paste wax as an example, solvents are used to keep the product in its packaged state and workable during application. These carriers will gradually flash off or evaporate as the product typically begins to visibly haze/dry on the surface as it is exposed to air. However, those same carriers that keep a hard wax “workable” or other products in a liquid state can also inadvertently begin to dissolve what is currently on the surface of your finish.

Characteristic Masking: Aside from the preference of keeping things simple myself, this is probably the second biggest reason I don’t use toppers. I choose my sealants for characteristics other than just longevity. If I am using a good sealant (FK1000P for example) which has excellent contaminant shedding ability, slickness, beading, reflectivity, resilience, etc., why would I want to mask that with another LSP? I would potentially be masking some of those traits I was using the base product for in the first place (with the characteristics of the LSP on top).

The following is an article posted on Meguiarsonline by Mike Phillips back when he used to work for them as a trainer. He has since moved from CA to FL to join Autogeek as their Director of Training. Nice guy and a great instructor. I dug this up since I thought it would fit in perfectly for our discussion. Hope you find it interesting and useful:

Is it a wax? Or a paint sealant? (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?28676-Is-it-a-wax-Or-a-paint-sealant)

As far as the wash & wax, if you like the result that product provides and it performs well for you, by all means keep using it. Honestly, it should be no different than using a QW during or after you dry. …effectiveness/performance differences aside. Also, if you like adding a carnauba, I don’t want to discourage you from doing that either.

A quote from Mike Phillips that I always enjoy (partly because of the back story) is: “Find something you like and use it often”. ….this was a remark Mike picked up from a PPG representative who was speaking at a presentation that Mike was also going to participating in. As I recall, someone in the audience asked him what wax he would recommend. After a moment of thought, his answer was: “Find something you like and use it often”. ….meaning that as long as you’re using something (of quality) to protect the paint and the product works for you, that’s what counts. Something is better than nothing in this case.

I just spent 3 hours doing mine. I clay barred, then I hand applied a good carnuba (Maguire's), I machine buffed off the wax, then used Maguire's quick detail spray and buffed again with a lambs wool pad.