Has anyone tried this? I don't believe you need a tune for it, just curious to see if anyone has it and can attest to either mod.

I had the blue tops installed on my Mercedes (same trans as the auto Challengers) - [no mods to valve body] and there's a few differences:

The MB applications have the same adaptive upshift/downshift feature that is continually adjusting to your driving style, like Chrysler uses -

*upshifts are faster and firmer
*downshift occur faster
*when manually shifting, gear changes are immediate up or down shifts
*WOT throttle downshifts occur faster/sooner (less delay after giving WOT)
*WOT throttle upshifts are faster

a few other changes:

*when shifting to Reverse or Drive, engagement is immediate and firm (need to hold brake when doing this)
*when coasting to a stop, the downshift from 2>1 is very firm (just before coming to full stop), but more modulated when braking.
You can feel the 3>2 downshift when slowing down, but not as firm as the 2>1...

All in all, I'm pleased with the changes, it 'woke up' the transmission and its more responsive, without the delay of downshifts when you get on throttle or trying to upshift too soon when you're not giving full throttle.

PS: mine had the 'brown tops' as it came from the factory.

I have a couple in the area that I'm going to have them try out the 'Benz, as they're interested in this for their '11 R/T auto to see if they want to make this mod.

I called the SRT group today and am waiting on a response back from them about the changes, if any, were made to the NAG1 auto for the 392. I do remember them mentioning shot peened parts during a chat session and we also know the transmission controller has a more aggressive shift pattern in track mode.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

The differential internals (ring & pinion) were shot peened for better durability for the SRT8 392

All I know is that the downshifts in my 11 A5 are brutal as is.. If you don't rev match it will lock up the rear tires on the 2-1 shift. I can't imagine the blue tops being more firm, at least for the 392 cars.

never heard of this , is it expensive , does it have to be professionally installed .

I installed blue tops and a pro torque 3200 in my Wife's 392SRT. It kicks ass.

never heard of this , is it expensive , does it have to be professionally installed .

The solenoids aren't cheap dealer prices run ~$270/ea (2 req.) but there are some sources that run about $224/ea.

Its not too difficult - requires drain fluid, drop filter, drop valve body and r&r the two (working pressure & shift pressure) solenoids. These are the two closest to the electrical connector on the valve body/conductor plate.

The 'trick' is the fluid level fill is temperature specific. The tranny won't work properly if over or under filled.

does anybody have the blue tops and a b&g tune . it could be a great combo . thinking about the combo myself .

I installed a stage2 nag1 valve body.. It shifts firmer you can notice how fast it is than before! down ****s too are firmer but not to the point of being harsh its still very smooth.

I installed blue tops and a pro torque 3200 in my Wife's 392SRT. It kicks ass.
that's freaking awesome.....

The solenoids aren't cheap dealer prices run ~$270/ea (2 req.) but there are some sources that run about $224/ea.

Its not too difficult - requires drain fluid, drop filter, drop valve body and r&r the two (working pressure & shift pressure) solenoids. These are the two closest to the electrical connector on the valve body/conductor plate.

The 'trick' is the fluid level fill is temperature specific. The tranny won't work properly if over or under filled.
couldnt you just drain the fluid, catch every little bit, then measure how much came out and refill with the same exact amount that was in the pan???

couldnt you just drain the fluid, catch every little bit, then measure how much came out and refill with the same exact amount that was in the pan???

You could, but you'd want to make sure your catch container, funnel was absolutely clean.

The Chrysler tranny pans don't have drain plugs, so you'd want to clean those areas really well before removing the pan so there's no dirt/grit/road grime falling into the fluid. If desired, the MB pans have drain plugs, so if you're going to be service the ATF fluid, its an easy swap.

Automatics have small valve body passages, so lint and contaminants must be avoided.

On these electronic trannys, the solenoids have fluid passing through their ports (there's 6 solenoids in total that operate the various clutches, torque converter clutches and small check valves in the valve body). You're replacing two (working pressure & shift pressure) - the other 4 are a different style don't get changed out.

The prices on the other solenoids run $35 - $54 apiece, so you don't want to mess those up. The blue tops are the most expensive ~ $224-$270/ea. Granted, there's a filter in the tranny, you just don't want to take chances.

PS- I'd recommend fluid changes each 50k with normal driving - if racing, probably 30k intervals would be good insurance.

i wasnt suggesting reusing the old fluid. just measuring what cam out and then refilling with new fluid that equals the quantity that came out