SRT8 IE 392 0056/1100 630 HP Tuned by B&G!
DWB, 6 Speed, SRT Option Group 2, NAV
12.467 @ 109.33 so far! (75 Degrees, 100% Humidity) First Mail Order BG Chrysler Tuned 392 First Blown 392 on a stock B&G Tuned ECU
Will the odometer be mismatched when you swap the original/stock ECU back in (for warranty work like you said)?? If not, what would prevent me from buying this to then lie when selling my car saying it only has the original 3000 miles on it since I was using the second ECU the whole time I had the car??
aaahhh, the good ol SRT4 trick.
say you have an 04 SRT4 with 12K miles on it and you decide to get a stage 2 upgraded ECU.
you call into your vendor, give them your vin and your mileage and they send you a stage 2 ECU.
you drive the car for 70K miles on stage 2 and decide to sell the car.
swap the stock ECU back in and you magically have an 04 SRT4 with 12K miles on it
...or, you could pull a fuse in the fuse box, shut down the entire gauge cluster and not log miles....been there, done that...
I just breezed through all these posts and I cant figure out why everyones times are so high? I believe stock, the car should do around 12.7.
I have only been to the track 2 times my entire life and my best time on my STOCK as you can get Challenger 392 was 12.593. I think my first run ever was in the 13's and this is my first muscle car.
If anyone is in the 13's in this car I would either take it back, check your trunk for lead bricks or give it to someone who "hate to say it, can Drag it better."
I read some of you guys did 30 or more passes. I just cant believe it. I would love to see how this tune works on my car.
The things I have to know is: Are you guys using Stick or auto? Is your car empty of all garbage HP consumers? If you guys have stick would maybe explain that maybe some of you cant throw the lightning like you think. Are you calculating just the right amount of gas for your runs or at least 1/8th tank?
Anyway, not trying to make enemies and as soon as you tell someone they cant drive they puff up. Not my intention just trying to figure out if this tune is a waste of money or not because your times should be lower guys.
I just breezed through all these posts and I cant figure out why everyones times are so high? I believe stock, the car should do around 12.7.
I have only been to the track 2 times my entire life and my best time on my STOCK as you can get Challenger 392 was 12.593. I think my first run ever was in the 13's and this is my first muscle car.
If anyone is in the 13's in this car I would either take it back, check your trunk for lead bricks or give it to someone who "hate to say it, can Drag it better."
I read some of you guys did 30 or more passes. I just cant believe it. I would love to see how this tune works on my car.
The things I have to know is: Are you guys using Stick or auto? Is your car empty of all garbage HP consumers? If you guys have stick would maybe explain that maybe some of you cant throw the lightning like you think. Are you calculating just the right amount of gas for your runs or at least 1/8th tank?
Anyway, not trying to make enemies and as soon as you tell someone they cant drive they puff up. Not my intention just trying to figure out if this tune is a waste of money or not because your times should be lower guys.
So, dont yell at me, lets just figure it out???
you ave a timeslip of your 12.5 ??
your first 13 second run was probably due to a bad DA.
I just breezed through all these posts and I cant figure out why everyones times are so high? I believe stock, the car should do around 12.7.
I have only been to the track 2 times my entire life and my best time on my STOCK as you can get Challenger 392 was 12.593.
My guess is that your stock as you can get Challenger 392 is an automatic. Automatics run vastly better times at the drag strip, as 6 speed cars have a tough time hooking up and can't 60ft near as well. We have members here who have gotten 12.2X's with their stock 392's in good air. In a 6-speed car, hitting 12's stock is difficult at best. I was only able to reach the 12's after I installed a Hopnot kit and a B&G tune.
On a road course it is the opposite. Having attended a FunDay even at the Nelson Ledges road course track, manual transmission Challengers consistantly ran the road course faster than the automatics, but on the drag strip the automatic is king.
Vichammer is dead on. An M6 392 Challenger which consistently runs in the high 12's bone stock is a factory freak or DA was negative. This is a low 13 second car all day on stock F1s. It's not nearly as quick as the A5 at the strip. The A5 picks up 2 tenths on the hole shot and a tenth every time the M6 is shifted. There's your consistent 0.5 sec delta between these two cars. And the M6 traps 2-3 MPH lower too.
High 11's is possible in a tuned A5 with DRs and a converter. That's a pipe dream with an M6. Best time I've seen for a tuned M6 with DRs (and all the other standard bolt-ons) was around 12.4. A tuned M6 with bolt-ons and 275/40 street tires is a 12.8 car in normal DA - maybe 12.6x in really good DA. A similarly equipped A5 in the same air will be knocking on 12.1x.
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2011 SRT8 392 IE #88 DWB: M6, 430N, Group II, Mopar Appearance Package
All SRT's have a factory breakin period of 3750 and then 7500 miles, whether it is a 6.1 or (392) 6.4 Hemi. It is normal to run low 13s until the breakin period is complete. My friend's 2011 6speed SRT didn't break into the 12s until after this breakin period on the STOCK "Factory" ECU was complete. So, I'm not that impressed with what the BG Tune allows. What the BG Tune "only" does is bypass the factory breakin periods forcing the car to run fast before the recommended breakin period by the factory.
A well broken in 6.1 or 6.4 Hemi will post ETs into the 12s under the right conditions, and definitely on Drag Radials.
your first 13 second run was probably due to a bad DA.
your 12.5 was probably a much improved DA.
Hey, sorry I dont talk motorhead I just mash the gas.
My first time I dragged it, I didnt even know I was going. My girlie surprised me. I was a little nervous my first time and I had my windows down, didnt know how to stage and I had my Traction Control off and in sport mode. Im pretty sure I was in reverse too while backing up during the stage. When you put it back into Drive it comes out of sport mode and never realized it. Learning curve when your nervous.
I mashed the gas on Green and lit em up all over the place. Thats why i was in the 13's. The whole day I thought everyone false starting on yellow and I was leaving on green. Its funny when you win and you look down and see ECO mode when you let off the gas.
Anyway, the next time I went I had better knowledge and ran in the 12's the whole time. My best, as I said was 12.593 I believe. I lost because it was Dodge vs Fords Vs Chevy, etc day. I didnt even know what Block Time was? If I just left the traction control on I would have ran a more consistent time around 12.7. I was just trying to win. 1/8th tank, octane booster and i took out all the dead weight. Sub, floor mats, etc.
I suprisingly just came upon the slip the same day I read this post. My power keeps going out from Sandy so I forgot it this morning. The car was almost brand new then, with only a few thousand miles too. I did test drive a Stick the first time and I wasnt impressed by how it shifted. I can see why some of your times are low if you have the Manual. All my sports cars have been stick and I was very impressed by this AUTO. I beat all kinds of mustangs these motorhead kids built, Suped up SS Camaro's, etc.
The best part about this car was, I got 7 of my Drunk soldiers home at once because of the hugh back seat. Looked like a clown car of course but, it is priceless. Lets see a Mustang do that.
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