So I know this topic has been beaten to death, because I know I've spent hours on many forums reading about everyone's opinions, supposed facts, subjective assessments and even those diesel filter tests.
As I understand it now, it seems like there is little benefit to changing much about my intake system, seeing as it is already a "true" cold air intake which utilizes a sealed system that draws ambient-temperature air from beneath the front fender, outside of the engine compartment.
Presumably, most of the "cold air" intake aftermarket options are just taking advantage of the hype, as they usually are comprised of a shorter intake tube and an exposed filter, which draws in air from the engine compartment. These utilize only a thin plastic "heat shield" to seal off the intake from the hot air in the rest of the compartment, and seem to be more aptly called "warm air" intakes.
It would appear that the systems with air boxes and tubes down to the fender would be better equipped to collect cooler air, i.e. Volant, Cervinis, stock air box.
My questions are as follows:
Do the shorter, "warm air" intakes allow for greater air flow? If so, is it at the cost of greater particulate intake?
Does the air temperature difference between the fender and behind the heat shield inside the engine compartment make that large of a difference? Or is this mitigated by the greater air flow?
If there is no significant difference in air flow, is there a significant difference between the air box systems?
If the stock air box really is the best system to run in terms of both air flow and temperature, what filter would be the best in allowing the greatest flow/least particulate intake (I've heard bad things about K&N)?
Lastly, if there is no difference in air flow, and the warmer air of the engine compartment is less efficient for the engine, why do people purchase these "warm air" intakes, and how can parts manufacturers claim the HP increases that they do?
Sorry for the lengthy questions and preface, I'm just trying to make the best decision for my baby! (and my wallet!)
The Following User Says Thank You to rbrot47 For This Useful Post:
I think you have a reasonable suspicion on the aftermarket intakes. Yes, the 2011 up have an excellent system. IMO replacing it would be a total waste of money. You're right that there could be problems with the K&N oiled filters if they are over oiled and oil gets on sensors. I put in an AEM dry high flow filter and have no problems. The only other thing I did for looks and to accomodate a catch can, was to replace that section of intake hose that has the silencer baffle with the tube from a Charger. Same exact part but without the wart.
I think you have a reasonable suspicion on the aftermarket intakes. Yes, the 2011 up have an excellent system. IMO replacing it would be a total waste of money. You're right that there could be problems with the K&N oiled filters if they are over oiled and oil gets on sensors. I put in an AEM dry high flow filter and have no problems. The only other thing I did for looks and to accomodate a catch can, was to replace that section of intake hose that has the silencer baffle with the tube from a Charger. Same exact part but without the wart.
I did the same thing. Charger intake tube and AFE filter (i went oiled though).
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2012 RT Classic - Blackberry Pearl
85MM Fastman TB, Charger Intake Tube, AFE Drop-In Filter, Diablo 91 Oct Tune, Solo Cat-Back
If you want proven HP increase go with the LMI True CAI....it will outperform the stock intake as proven many times with dyno and track time....Most of the modern LX record holders have the LMI True CAI....
__________________ 2013 CHALLENGER SRT8 BLACK CLEAR COAT NO OPTIONS EXCEPT STRIPE DELETE AND AUTO LMI TRUE CAI MAGNAFLOW MIDS W/HIGH FLOW CATS CORSA EXTREME CATBACK MOPAR LOWERING SPRINGS PARAMOUNT DOMINATOR 3800 STALL CONVERTER GETRAG 3.73 LSD SPEEDLOGIX REAR SEAT DELETE MORE TO COME...
Maybe I'm completely naive, but how does one tube outperform another? They appear to be drawing from the same area... I can think of 3 things:
1. The filter: But if it's a conical and/or high-flow filter that causes the gains, can't this be installed on the stock box?
2. The tube material: I doubt that the heat insulating properties of carbon fiber are that different from the plastic/rubber already used that it would yield a significant difference.
3. Location of the filter: In the airbox area, or the filter itself is just behind the front fender. If this is the cause for the large differences in HP, can someone explain to me why?
Lastly, does changing from the stock filter to an aftermarket drop-in change the sound at all? Or is the only way to really have the sound is to have an exposed filter? I'm guessing that noise comes from being able to hear the air being drawn in...
If you want proven HP increase go with the LMI True CAI....it will outperform the stock intake as proven many times with dyno and track time....Most of the modern LX record holders have the LMI True CAI....
Links?
And to say most record holders use LMI doesn't mean they wouldn't hold the records without them. Circumstantial.
Would like to see some individual/unbiased dyno results before/after CAI install. I still have the stock intake because I haven't seen any definitive proof of CAI gains on 2011+. The 2011+ use a different OEM filter than 2008-2010 as well.
I did the same thing. Charger intake tube and AFE filter (i went oiled though).
What is the difference between charger intake tube and challenger intake tube? I have heard this a few times before. Is it a noise dampening filter in the inlet tube? Is this on all challengers including the 2011+ SRT 392's? I would like to delete this also, if in fact it is on the newer SRT's.
I also went with the AFE pro dry filter and left the stock CAI in. Not a believer in open air intakes inside a hot engine compartment. The legmaker and other types like it would make the most sense if anyone wanted to do a CAI. The stock box is sealed and draws ambient air from the outside of the engine bay that's good enough for me, IMO a high flow panel filter is the way to go and that might even be a waste if they are already using high flow filters right from the factory. I'm a little sour on aftermarket open CAI after putting one on my 2011 5.0, really didn't do anything.
I removed the baffle from my stock intake tune and did not any difference.
Instead of going with charger tube i chopped of the baffle and sealed it up with a pvc cap. Cost 97 cents
C old air intake do have proven hp gains but they are pretty minimal
And to say most record holders use LMI doesn't mean they wouldn't hold the records without them. Circumstantial.
Would like to see some individual/unbiased dyno results before/after CAI install. I still have the stock intake because I haven't seen any definitive proof of CAI gains on 2011+. The 2011+ use a different OEM filter than 2008-2010 as well.
There were a few threads discussing CAI dyno results and IAT temps with aftermarket CAIs:. Here are just a few:
Now I guess anyone can argue that differences in temps or humidity or calibration etc. resulted in the gains, but I think it shows that there is some HP to be gained with some of the aftermarket CAIs. Will anyone feel that extra 10HP? Maybe not...
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