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2015 home made exhaust valve bypass how to

9K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  kenandjenn4551 
#1 · (Edited)
first off it makes it easier to remove the exhaust to do the mod. not gonna cover exhaust removal pretty straight forward to do. I'm just gonna cover what is required to modify the valves so it still moves the actuator motor without moving the valve.

the best part about this mod is that it appears quite stock since the valve assemblies are in their stock location. and it is easily reversed if needed. just remove the cotter pin and safety wire and reassembly back to factory. the only noted difference will be the cuts made into the valve actuator brackets which are quite subtle and if done right, look pretty stock.

what you'll need to complete this is:

1. a dremel with cutoff tool or cutting tool of some sort
2. a few 2 1/4"- 2 1/2" inch stainless cotter pins. I had a bunch I use on my bikes so easy there for me. get more than just two as you may need to practice making the cotter pins correctly.
3. to make it easier to reference I used a sharpie marker to mark the cut areas.
4. .030" safety wire to lock out the actual exhaust valve so it doesn't flutter since it isn't engaged.
5. small file set ( optional to help clean up the cut edges.)

thats it. pretty cheap huh!


first off locate the cotter pins and modify them to resemble this on. I pressed the loop end together in a vice to remove the large loop, then on the other end you will bend over the two ends opposite to retain the cotter pin into the actuator valve assembly I also did this in a vice as well. I bent one side at a time, I would recommend not to put the angle bend on the loop side until the cotter pin is installed in the assembly:



next remove the valve assemblies from the exhaust, they are held in by (3) 8mm nuts. careful and note the position of the valve. you can also reference my picture on how to safetywire it into place.

here you can see how it sits in the valve actuator, since the cotter pin will be located where the actuator to valve spring would go, it does not actuate the exhaust valve anymore, but the spring is still required as it retains the cotter pin in place:



next you need to cut the valve bracket assembly as shown, as you can see the length of the cut put in, this will allow for the full actuation of the actuator and not cause any fault codes, also where the valve is safety wired I put a notch in the once side of the cut (noted with the red arrow)so it doesn't interfere with the rotation of the cotter pin when the actuator does its thing, you will do this to both brackets:



here's the fun part, the reassembly, you will sandwich in the cotterpin and the valve spring, it's easier as I had mentioned earlier to before, to not bend the cotter pin yet, make sure the cotter pin is in its place on the actuator and the spring is in its place on the valve, press it together and reinstall the (3) 8mm bolts. note that it looks like the end of the spring will interfere with the rotation of the cotterpin, but once all squished together since the cotter pin is in there, it pushes the spring flush with the cotterpin(i guess if you wanted to be extra safe you could find a thin washer and sandwich in between the two). but I've had the exhuast like this for a couple weeks now with no codes. I put the bend in the pin to reduce the drag along the opening so it was more free moving :



once you have reassembled the valve assemblies reinstall the exhaust.

all together again:



pass side close up:


drivers side close up:




how it sounds, keep in mind I have kooks longtubes and catless mids as well as a hellcat camshaft:
 
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#3 ·
why would I get an exhaust leak under the car? nothing has changed other than it is a full flowing exhaust now. the valve is open. I didn't drill any holes in the exhuast. just the actuator mounting bracket. that is not enclosed in the exhaust. it would be considered a gas free area that I drilled.
 
#8 ·
SRT ANDY, good job and very creative! Just a few questions, I assume you safety wired the valve to keep it from rotating but I am not sure how you fastened the safety wire to it. Also with the spring squeezed between the valve and the cotter pin does the friction of the cotter pin try to turn the spring and valve and would this be a wear area?
Thanks!
 
#9 ·
Mcmopar,

yes that is what the safety wire is for, as for how its affixed- the safety wire is looped through the upper right hole/notch that holds the spring in place. with the notch you can feed the safety wire through and then secure it to the stock lower hole and the hole created as shown with the red arrow for the notched area. as for the spring being a wear item, good question, i guess it could be over time since it is metal to metal contact. a thin stainless washer placed between the two should solve that problem though, probably last a long time as well.
 
#15 ·
The ultimate solution is with a custom tune. HP allows you to turn off the AES codes and you can completely disconnect the actuators. Just seal up the connectors and secure them.
 
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