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Anyone using Killer Chiller?

15K views 44 replies 6 participants last post by  Toxic11 
#1 ·
Just curious if anyone is using a universal Killer Chiller on a Challenger since they do not offer a specific kit for our cars? I would love to have one.
 
#6 ·
These hot 100 degree days, I'm seeing 140 plus in stop and go traffic. It was 163 at the track on a 88 degree night. I'm hoping to keep it near ambient after this.
 
#9 ·
just thought about it. if I bought the indepent system I wouldn't need the whipple heat exchanger up front. but I think I will just stick with the regular system with the drag pack option, if I buy it. to bad we couldn't get a group buy going on this kit.
 
#11 ·
Subscribed. I'm battling high IAT with my Eforce. Same temps as you 140+ driving and 160+ at the track with Snow Performance methanol kit. Was just talking to someone about this kit. Never heard of it until just a few days ago.
 
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#12 ·
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#14 ·

I didn't know their was a specific kit until I emailed and told him what I needed it for and placed the order. Here is one on a Challenger but of course its all buttoned up so you really cant see it.
 
#15 ·
boy they really emphasize the coolant temps in most of the videos of the killer chiller. while it is interesting, I am more interested in the IAT temps in the intercooler, THAT's the real money maker. also, looking at the block that is off the A/C line hopefully that is adjustable in its location, that area with the whipple is a busy area.
 
#16 ·
From most of the videos Ive been looking at, The temps seem to run under ambient cruising and of course, when you go WOT, the AC cuts off and you have a lot more air volume than what it can cool down but the temps are still drastically lower. I'm hoping I get it before the 3 day weekend but I don't think I will. Probably be the Tuesday after with my luck haha.
 
#17 · (Edited)
k, I just saw a video on the install from MB world. I might not do the basic kit now. if it is still the same it requires cutting into the A/C lines. I don't like that at all, I might just go for the independent system because of this. might have to call Joe and get some more information myself and decide from there.

here's the install video on a merc:
 
#18 ·
k, I just saw a video on the install from MB world. I might not do the basic kit now. if it is still the same it requires cutting into the A/C lines. I don't like that at all, I might just go for the independent system because of this. might have to call Joe and get some more information myself and decide from there.

here's the install video on a merc:
[/QUOTE
That's the main one I watched and the most informative one. He has a updated one as well. I ran across one on a Cobra on a dyno that hit 92 degrees after the intercooler temp in a 88 degree dyno room after 3 pulls back to back I think.
 
#21 · (Edited)
priced it out, ordered the drag kit and the addition valves and T's to bypass the HE when I want to. decided to not go with the independent system, while it is a nice setup I didn't want to buy a alternator as well, a 250 amp alternator is required. And I priced the cost of the replacement AC lines, their around 160 for both. gotta order some industrial R12A freon now and pick up some insulation from lowes.
 
#22 · (Edited)
priced it out, ordered the drag kit and the addition valves and T's to bypass the HE when I want to. decided to not go with the independent system, while it is a nice setup I didn't want to buy a alternator as well, a 250 amp alternator is required. And I priced the cost of the replacement AC lines, their around 160 for both. gotta order some industrial A12 freon now and pick up some insulation from lowes.
Oh snap! Cant wait for that write up lol! Did Joe recommend the Industrial hydrocarbon refrigerant? Hopefully he gave you a bit of a deal.
This s what was recommended to me from a guy a YouTube when I asked about it.
http://autorefrigerants.com/hydrocarbon-refrigerants-info
 
#26 ·
Well, that did not work out. I mounted the KC and started hooking up gauges for recovery process only to find out they switched from R134 to 1234Y. I may have to abort this unless Kincade has a solution.
 
#28 ·
I don't think I can run R1234Y thru KC unit or R134 thru car. I would also need a different gauge set I think. Ill just have to try see what my option are.
 
#29 · (Edited)
hmm, well that puts a wrench in things... guess i'll also be making a phone call to joe tomorrow to see if my kit has shipped and if it is still useable.. dang it.

looking on the internet it seems R1234 is just a more "earth friendly" freon. the system sounds like they are similar but they have different connectors for eco safety reasons.. it's just not legal for a service department to convert one to the other. no different than making a 134a system to a R12a system, not legal. but if a person does it on their own. who's gonna stop them? it looks like the R1234 also uses a different PAG oil as well.
 
#30 ·
talked to Joe. I'll probably be a test mule for this. gonna drain the system myself and refill with the R12A. should be fine the pressures from the R1234 are a bit higher than R12 / R134, but that shouldn't be any worries. the big thing will be to get the R1234 PAG oil out of the system when switching over to the new stuff so I will be removing the compressor to drain all the oil out of the compressor.
 
#33 ·
I have him calling Eaton to see if the hoses and fitting we have are compatible. I can not even find this dead gum R1234y stuff. I thought about also calling Mastercool to see if my digital gauges will read the 1234 stuff and just switch couplers. I hope the R134 stuff will work out.
 
#31 ·
Why can't the stock R1234Y be run thru the KC system? I was thinking about taking the car to the dealer to evacuate the a/c system and have them fill it up once everything was plumbed in. The service tech advised that it would be a lot cheaper to refill the system with what he takes out. I'm a total nob on all this a/c stuff. I called HC to cancel my order but he convinced me that it's a doable mod.
 
#34 ·
Well, I may be right behind you cutting up hoses and just running R12A. Joe spoke with a refrigeration engineer and this 1234y stuff is 5 percent less efficient than just the regular plain 134. He stated the 12a should work fine and to use the oil that's already in the system but to just ad ounce. I need to buy some 12a but looks like I will have to buy a whole case.
And the hoses are approved just stamped 134 to prevent cross contamination.
 
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