I wanted to get a new scat pack in go mango now that color has been pushed back again so, I'm done waiting. I'm going to super charge my 2010 srt. Question I have is, E force or whipple and why?
Well considering that the 6.1 is the strongest of the factory engines in our cars.....Yes.
They are also the easiest to tune. It would never hurt to install forged innards on any of our engines but the 6.1 has the best reputation for handling boost and those bigger number of boost is what the Whipple is known for........... :5:
I have had an E-Force for over two years and 40k miles. Started with 3.875 and worked my way down to 3.25 thus far. I did not hear the "whine" until I just recently put cats back on and that was with the 3.5 and now 3.25 pulleys. I like the quiet operation. Love it when people want to run me because I am "just an RT". Pushing 600hp and will know the official final number when the tune is complete now that I upgraded fuel pump, injectors, and progressive methanol controller. Car is at the shop so stay tuned. Still stock 5.7 internals.
If absolutely staying with the stock internals with no plans to forge I would get the Eforce. I am right at 545 rwhp on the RT with stock internals and not one problem after several thousand mile trips. Problem now is that I am getting a stroker this year and there is only one pulley size smaller to go to. I may end up like Big Daddy's RT and get a Whipple.
IMO, how long you plan to keep the car before the new car bug hits should be another consideration. I have wasted a lot of $$$ not planning in advance my ultimate power goals. At first it was 400 rwhp. Last summer it was 500 rwhp. Now it is at least 600 rwhp with an HRH forged short block, another Cam and possible new blower.
It never stops!
Keep in mind that I swore I was going to keep my Jeep stock. I already had a 9 second street car so why in the world would I want to modify a perfectly good SRT8?
With my stock 6.1 plus Corsa extreme exhaust and the addition of the e force what kind of rwhp should I expect? The shop I am using includes a dyno tune, they claim it will be tuned to about 520 rwhp and that's a safe set up. Do you think this is realistic?
I would say that is very realistic. My dyno with just a baby Cam and LT's was anywhere between 373 and 385 depending on the month/weather. Similar to the 6.1L SRT stock dyno. I put the EForce on and got 505 rwhp with the 3.5" pulley that came with the kit. I dropped down to the 3" pulley that put me right at 7.0 -7.4 psi and I dyno'd 523 rwhp, Tweeked the tune a bit and hit 535. Last month I put it on the dyno to check some results and I was at 545 rwhp but the temp was 50 degrees out and the car was not heat soaked.
VQ it really is surprising how close in numbers we are and also shows me how good the factory heads are. I dyno 380+ with PWR heads, 392 cam, and JBA long tubes. My last dyno with with my e-force and a 3.25" pulley was 586 but fuel ran out. Fuel is sorted but then we found out my clutch was slipping so that will be installed next week. I hope soon to have some final numbers.
Well, when I first got the Daytona in 2013, no one was modifing their chargers on the Charger sister forum site. I started following JS1977 and his build and then followed yours on this site. I got most of my build ideas on this forum. I read several threads about the pros and cons of the Eagle heads. I believe they will give you some gain but no the 25-35 rwhp that some vendors claim. Looking forward to those final numbers. Thinking about forging the motor next month and it would be good to see what I can expect.
Those are some very nice numbers. Ever go up against any camaro SS or 5.0 stangs?
I will be using the big pulley I think it's 3.875 I believe my installer/tuner is going for 6lbs. Of boost. I'm trying to justify long tubes and off road mid pipe, my installer likes to use the catted pipes, he says without cats the smell of gas is bad, but I hate to spend $500 extra and lose 10 HP. Thoughts?
I had off road mids on the 2012 Mustang GT I traded in for the Daytona. I swore after that purchase never again. Your tuner is right, the smell was bad. My grandkids complained often when I picked them up from school about the smell. IMO if you are putting on a Blower, Shorties with a set of High Flow cats would be sufficient. The gains you get with a set of LT's is about 1 lb of boost or less.
Those are some very nice numbers. Ever go up against any camaro SS or 5.0 stangs?
I will be using the big pulley I think it's 3.875 I believe my installer/tuner is going for 6lbs. Of boost. I'm trying to justify long tubes and off road mid pipe, my installer likes to use the catted pipes, he says without cats the smell of gas is bad, but I hate to spend $500 extra and lose 10 HP. Thoughts?
Imo spend the money and keep the car at least somewhat legal. You don't know what is coming down the road pollution equipment inspection/enforcement wise.
About the gas smell with no cats. I've always had a pretty good smeller, no cats on my '10 since almost day one as my first mod was CAI, Corsa exhaust with Stainless Works LT's/no cats. Let that baby breathe IN and OUT! Never noticed much smell, a little at start up maybe but I've always (well at least 99% of the time) had a good tune and I always burn non-ethanol gas. Don't know if that would make a difference but never smelled or had anyone say they smelled gas. Just my experience and 2 cents.
I have had both high flow cats, JBA, and cat less, also JBA, and I have not noticed a difference in smell. I am swapping back to my off road mids when my new clutch goes in. I'll also have to check out Arringtons strut brace but to my knowledge the only one known to fit is the Speedlogix(Razor's Edge) and I think that is mostly due to the fact that is full replaces the factory brace. Therefore it sits a little further back than you typical strut brace that just bolts to the existing OEM one.
And yes it will also fit with the two "side covers" in place, I just ditched those after stroking as they are just dead weight and holds in heat. But they look nice.