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Questions on DSS 1 piece drive shaft

7K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  Justin14 
#1 ·
Ok guys I've been eyeing the DSS 1 piece aluminum driveshaft for my six speed manual R/t for a while now and have some questions. To start, is there any vibration or drivability issues when daily driving? Also any special tools required to change the mounting flanges on the rear diff? Did some searching and didn't see too much on the on piece shaft, just the two piece units. Thanks!


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#2 ·
wow! 218 hits your just as popular as I am, as you know I'm looking into a alum driveshaft myself, maybe I'll call them and offer my '15 as a mule, I've already started an account with modern preformance, I've got to be one of the first '15 STP R/T 5.7 8sp auto ripping their brand new car apart in the nation. I'm sure the '15 needs a shaft that is different then whats out there, due to the new tranny. I don't want any rubber U-joints on my car.
 
#3 ·
What are you guys expecting out of a different shaft? Less rotating weight or plans for big HP?
Just curious, the stock shaft has held up great in my A5 on DRs.
 
#5 ·
I just want the strength factor. I don't trust the stock two piece shafts when building real power. I'd rather spend the money and havey the drive train beefed up then come home on a flat bed lol
 
#6 ·
I think someone on here broke one. Maybe FlatTop? They were SC'd though on slicks.
I see a lot of M6 guys breaking half shafts, even on street tires but haven't heard of a N/A'd M6 breaking the driveshaft. Might be good insurance though if you plan on running sticky tires.
 
#7 ·
I got it recommended to me from josh at Hhp, to go with the solid pinion support bushing that they sell, it gets rid of the rear diff rubber bushing and replaces it with a billet aluminum one to eliminate the rear diff from moving forward and back in the cradle.
 
#8 ·
didn't Flat Top twist up 2 of them a alum and a carbonfiber ? the deal with going to an alum shaft is a more direct transfer, everytime you shift you're DShaft unwinds, as it has a rubber gimblet on each end, so it has to wind up once power is applied again. I'm sure your saying to yourselves, this is minute, well yes and no when paired with other mods as Mr. NavySRT ( i was in the navy, but we called it the marine corp) is doing it must be done in conjunction with bushings in the rear cradle, stiffening the frame and other components, even changing the motor to a stiffer mount. Everyting needs to be straight, plum, aligned, these are the things that make your DD a car length ahead
 
#11 ·
why do you think you need the 1 pc? I can see the need if your doing a track car but for double duty I went with the DSS 2pc it performs great and no issues only thing is to check it every so often and make sure all of your bolts are torqued to the right spec also a little dab of lock-tite. I have had mine in since 2011 the reason was simple I don't drag race enough and the overall application is it has taken many mile of abuse.




 
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#13 ·
I was going with the 1 piece because from my experience of building late model Ls powered GM's and other cars with two piece driveshafts it always seems the center carrier joint is the first to go during hard launches. I currently have the driveshaft on hold now because I just bought a 392 short block and am doing heads and cam on it. It's gonna be a fun spring for me hehehehe Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Vehicle Tool accessory

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