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Dyno Thread Post Dyno Results

181K views 487 replies 124 participants last post by  Clutched_392 
#1 ·
Post your dyno results I had a dyno done recently,and a custom tune I'm very happy...This heavy girl is starting to give me the same feel my vette does.The power band has increased to the point I can really feel the tune add-on way downin the seat of my pants.

Im feeling way more grunt and Im getting scratch in all four gears hard!! Its is a sound that makes a car guy smile ear to ear.

I can see the passenger now fighting the G's, thats worth the trip right there,as they grab the "Oh Sheet handle"when I hit it hard!!.



This dyno info is going to be confirmed soon at another shop however feel free to post your findings and any other info concerning dynoing you ride..
 

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#242 ·
If I get more power output at 13:1 is that goign to cause a problem? So Im assuming you increase and decrease until you hit peek power, but from what Im seeing leaner is yealding more power but I dont want to go to lean. So if 13:1 hits near peek, and say 14:1 is peek, then are either to lean and risking blowing the tops off the piston, etc.?

Im finding the leaner stock tune to yeald better 0-60 runs than the richer DiabloSport 93 tune, and back when I had a tune that would allow me to lean it, and I went to 13:1 it was stronger, and even sounded stronger.
 
#243 ·
You would need to see what the knock sensors are doing. I wouldn't run my car at 13:1. Maybe 12.5 or 12.8:1. Leaner mixtures are hotter and more prone to detonation, which the knock sensors will detect and retard timing to compensate.

Log knock and see if it starts to pull timing at 13:1. That seems lean to me even for a NA motor.
 
#244 ·
^ the DS tech said that they aim for 12.5 on the Hemis.
I actually saw a power loss when I dialed it too rich or lean.
And lean conditions caused fuel & ST KR up to 2*, which resulted in less hp & tq made.
You need a wideband (or a dyno w/ sniffer) and the datalogging function of the DS to get it just right.
When cruising in closed loop the PCM keeps the AFR around 15-16:1, this is for economy purposes. When you go WOT, it should drop to no higher than 13:1, but preferably 12.7-12.5:1.
What I was told by the people that go to training at DS for this stuff.

And the car will save itself before you burn it up. When it detects knock on ST it pulls timing as needed. If you drive it set wrong for long enough it logs and entry in the LT KR and will pull timing constantly.
The worst thing you can do would be fook up the cats running it too rich.
 
#245 ·
14.7 is for idle and part throttle. That is refered to as the Stoichiometric level. That means that you have an afr that which almost all of the fuel is combusted and will meet or exceed EPA limits on hydrocarbon emissions.

Part Throttle is usually <80% TPS voltage.
Wide Open Throttle is >80% TPS voltage.

Generally spaeaking NA cars make peak HP @ 13.2 afr and Boosted cars make peak HP @ 12.5 afr. Depending on head and piston design and a slew of other factors like Octane, Inlet Air Temps, Timing, dynamics of engine flow.......the engine will actually make peak HP somewhere in that area and usually less than those rules of thumb.

Tuning for a specific AFR across the board will not result in peak HP. Thats why the curve is instrumental is deciding what to do. It will get you in the ball park though.

All manufacturers leave some HP on the table from the facrory for good reasons. Like Warranty for sure. More fuel means cooler EGT's and that means more longevity. Less timng advance means less load on the rods etc and again a longer lasting assy generally speaking.

You can use up some of this margin with the Diablo and inparticular by being able to monitor Short and Long term Knock while adjusting those parameters. The car will go into a self preservation mode and detune itself. The trick is to find the balance while tuning. High heat and varying grades of fuel (Sunoco vs Quicky Mart) will set this off in a cars ECU whether we like it or not. Thats why I'm big on Water/Meth injection systems as these will negate the above and provide big performance gains even w/o tuning for it, as you get the benefit of Octane and detonation prevention from the water. Water has 6x the heat absorbtion of Gasoline.

FYI,
Marion
 
#248 ·
14.7 is for idle and part throttle. That is refered to as the Stoichiometric level. That means that you have an afr that which almost all of the fuel is combusted and will meet or exceed EPA limits on hydrocarbon emissions.

Part Throttle is usually <80% TPS voltage.
Wide Open Throttle is >80% TPS voltage.

Generally spaeaking NA cars make peak HP @ 13.2 afr and Boosted cars make peak HP @ 12.5 afr. Depending on head and piston design and a slew of other factors like Octane, Inlet Air Temps, Timing, dynamics of engine flow.......the engine will actually make peak HP somewhere in that area and usually less than those rules of thumb.

Tuning for a specific AFR across the board will not result in peak HP. Thats why the curve is instrumental is deciding what to do. It will get you in the ball park though.

All manufacturers leave some HP on the table from the facrory for good reasons. Like Warranty for sure. More fuel means cooler EGT's and that means more longevity. Less timng advance means less load on the rods etc and again a longer lasting assy generally speaking.

You can use up some of this margin with the Diablo and inparticular by being able to monitor Short and Long term Knock while adjusting those parameters. The car will go into a self preservation mode and detune itself. The trick is to find the balance while tuning. High heat and varying grades of fuel (Sunoco vs Quicky Mart) will set this off in a cars ECU whether we like it or not. Thats why I'm big on Water/Meth injection systems as these will negate the above and provide big performance gains even w/o tuning for it, as you get the benefit of Octane and detonation prevention from the water. Water has 6x the heat absorbtion of Gasoline.

FYI,
Marion
I'm not going to argue about the figures you posted, I'm just going by what the DS tech was telling me works for most Hemis and what I saw while we were tuning.
We were getting ST KR when the AFR was around 13.5 or higher, adding fuel until the AFR was 12.5-12.7 prevented the KR and made more power.
And cruising in gear (part throttle) the AFR was no lower than 15:1 according to the wideband at the dyno.

We tuned for max timing advance without causing KR, and kept the AFR around 12.5. That is what netted the max gains, not peak numbers. By gains I mean the curve coming up sooner and staying longer. Like I said before, more 'useable' power.
 
#246 ·
This is all great. Thanks. From the sound and feal the car had more power at around 13:1 than 12.5:1. With the latest 9R27 tune it wouldnt change the a/f ratio so all I could do was measure and feal 0-60 in stock vs 93 tune. Stock was faster, had more tire spin and slightly leaner than 93 tune. Now that makes no sense to me because the 93 tune should be leaner, but according to the wideband O2 stock was leaner.

My innitial plan was to shoot for 12.5:1 but when I got around 13:1 it got me excited for the performance but scared about it being to lean and hot. I did datalog for st kr, but I dont remember if I did at 13:1

Either way I go I find that launching from idle and a complete stop its quite rich then leans to around 12.5:1 Should it start at 10:1 or 11:1 at low rpm's ? or should I try to lean that closer to 12.5:1? The Dyno sheet I have comparring stock vs diabloSport shows it getting leaner at low rpm not richer. It does start at 3200rpm though.
 
#249 ·
This is all great. Thanks. From the sound and feal the car had more power at around 13:1 than 12.5:1. With the latest 9R27 tune it wouldnt change the a/f ratio so all I could do was measure and feal 0-60 in stock vs 93 tune. Stock was faster, had more tire spin and slightly leaner than 93 tune. Now that makes no sense to me because the 93 tune should be leaner, but according to the wideband O2 stock was leaner.

My innitial plan was to shoot for 12.5:1 but when I got around 13:1 it got me excited for the performance but scared about it being to lean and hot. I did datalog for st kr, but I dont remember if I did at 13:1

Either way I go I find that launching from idle and a complete stop its quite rich then leans to around 12.5:1 Should it start at 10:1 or 11:1 at low rpm's ? or should I try to lean that closer to 12.5:1? The Dyno sheet I have comparring stock vs diabloSport shows it getting leaner at low rpm not richer. It does start at 3200rpm though.
it should never be richer than 12.5. If you get to 10 - 11 and it's still running you will clog your cats in short order.
If you have a 6 speed start the pull at 2000 in 4th, that is what I did when we did the tune.
You need a full RPM sweep to tune the entire range, you're not just driving from 3200 - up all the time (I hope :thumbsup:)

edit: just read you sig tag. Can you manually keep it in 4th with the autostick without it down shifting?
 
#247 ·
93 CAI tune, first pull , 371 rwhp. This vid shows what the tuners first adj gained. If you are serious and want max your machine has to offer, pay someone with the expetise to do it. If all you want to do is play with timing and fuel in 3 rpm ranges, tune away but use caution.

 
#252 ·
93 CAI tune, first pull , 371 rwhp. This vid shows what the tuners first adj gained. If you are serious and want max your machine has to offer, pay someone with the expetise to do it. If all you want to do is play with timing and fuel in 3 rpm ranges, tune away but use caution.

YouTube - ‪challenger on dyno being CMR tuned by RDP Motorsport USA‬‎
I agree. The dyno based custome tune is the best, it also cost more, worth it but still cost more.

B5 SRT-8 truely is the best Challenger by far.
 
#255 ·
Looking at just the AFR the stock tune looks like the better of the two.

Ignore the brief rich period when you mash the gas from a stop.....the system dumps a bit of fuel and tries to play catch up with to get matched with the RPMs. No biggie there.

Normal dyno testing is in 4th gear from 2K rpms to redline. I've been data logging my AFR in 3rd and 4th staring at 2KPRMs in third.
 
#258 ·
I do agree to lean will cause issues, but like you said, plus remember the day when our main tool was a screw driver? Remember when you could lean the tune to the point it would die? Remember when you could advance the timing until you could hear ping? When I was 17 I had the timing jacked so high even with 95 octane, and some 107 I would get ping, young and stupid, but didnt blow the enigne, and it was a 400 v8.
 
#259 ·
I Just got done tuning my car with the diablo for my new cam so its a tad crewd but it works for now. Here Ya Go!!
 
#260 ·
And Heres a comparason for my old cam vs. new one
 
#261 ·
nice gains.
looks like the AFR is dialed in perfect.
 
#262 ·
Well the final results are in. :bigthumb:

JBA shorties w/o cats produce 10 whp and 12 ft lbs. Peak HP is about 5500 rpm. AFR is from 12.5 to 12.0 back to 12.5 @ redline. Dyno CMR tuned @ DCX Depot.

TEMP was 102.5 on the DYNO.

The exhaust is much throatier and sounds very good.

FYI,
Marion
 
#265 ·
370,

This is stock exhaust w/ catback -vs- JBA/No Cats and catback.

FYI,
Marion
 
#276 ·
In the first one you mention "exhaust w/ catback" When I think exhaust I think cat back aftermarket or stock cat back exhaust, so, Im not sure whare you mean by "exhaust w/ catback" Sorry to sound like a pain, but do you mean stock exhaust manafold, stock cats, aftermarket cat back, or what?

1%, 2%, 4% I added after the install. The operator only had to tweak that and pulled 1 deg of timing up top due to a bit of KR. But it was 102 in the dyno area.

Marion
By "1%, 2%, 4%" Do you mean you added 1% in all rpm ranges, then 2% in all rpm rnages, then 4% in all rpm ranges and ended with a tune that has +4% in all rpm ranges, or do you mean you added +1% in the low rpm range, then +2% in the middle rpm range, then +4% in the higher rpm range?

Also with A CMR tune they have nearly full controll of the software, and arent limited to 3 rpm ranges like we are with the preditor, so how was it adjusted?
 
#277 ·
I am glad I didn't pay extra for aftermarket mids with no cats seeing as there isn't much difference performance wise...plus the failing an emissions test would be bad too.
 
#279 · (Edited)
It would not matter if they did, as each car requires slightly different values.
It's not hard to get close with the handheld: tune, datalog, adjust, repeat.

Must have been really close, it took us 6-7 pulls when tuning mine.
 
#285 ·
We ran 6 cars on the dyno:
2010 Challenger SRT8(Mine) - Stock auto with 2k miles
2010 Mustang GT(My Wife's) - Stock auto with 500 miles
2006 Cobalt SS - Modded
2005 Cobalt SS - Modded
2000 Camaro SS(My Son's) - Stock 6 speed with 80K miles
2000 Mustang GT - Rebuilt motor, performance cams, headers, 6 speed, 3.90 gears

My 2010 Challenger SRT8


All 6 cars:
 
#288 ·
This is great, I love all the comparrisons. To bad it wasnt a 2011 Mustang GT.
 
#286 ·
Here is the dyno for my 2010 Challenger V6.

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#287 ·
Here is the dyno for my 2010 Challenger V6.

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Thats awesome. Thanks for sharring, this is probably the most powerfull 3.5L LX / LY car I have seen. I assume with the long tubes you are running catless?
 
#290 ·
How much fuel did they need to add to get the a/f ratio correct?
 
#292 ·
I don't know. I guess I'll check with the tuner for the answer.
 
#291 ·
Just curious, because DiabloSport found that CAI, Cat back, and JBA shorties didnt lean the a/f ratio enough to warrant a seperate tune, BUT high flow cats might. Obviously the mods increase hp, and make it faster, however the 3 basic mods dont lean the a/f ratio, so I was curious what tuning they needed to do.
 
#293 ·
Just curious, because DiabloSport found that CAI, Cat back, and JBA shorties didnt lean the a/f ratio enough to warrant a seperate tune, BUT high flow cats might. Obviously the mods increase hp, and make it faster, however the 3 basic mods dont lean the a/f ratio, so I was curious what tuning they needed to do.
When I dyno tuned mine the A/F ratio was at the upper limit of what was considered optimal, according to the tech.
Also, if you fatten up the mix you can add more timing with less KR.

It's relatively easy to do a basic custom tune if you have a dyno & a sniffer. Adjust fuel to keep the AFR where it needs to be and add timing until you start to see KR, then back off a degree or two.

The datalogging along with the adjustment of different parameters make it a worthwhile investment...freeing up another 10hp is good too :thumbsup:

Edit: you referring to the V6 or the V8?
 
#295 ·
V6 tunes do not have "With CAI". Diablo Sport said it doesn't make any difference on the V6.
 
#297 · (Edited)
IS 12:1 a bit lean for boost?

What s/c kit is that? How much boost? What other mods do you have? That looks like +100hp to the rear wheels.

I think it looks great!
 
#303 · (Edited)
#300 ·
Whats your a/f ratio? That sounds a bit low for all those mods, I would expect about that for just the DiabloSport 93 tune.

If you dont have a dyno based custome tune you need one because with high flows and long tubes your a/f ratio will be rather lean.
 
#301 ·
@Challenger370, this was on a dynamic/mustang dyno, so the numbers would be about 10-15% lower than compared to a dynojet. As far as the air/fuel ratio, not sure, would have to look at it, but I did get the car dyno tuned, and have the settings saved on my diablo.
 
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