My driver's seat has the same "stutter" but it's only in one spot. Moves smoothly, stutter, continues moving. Same spot every time. I'm not going to mess with it since the seat doesn't get moved often and it sounds like there's a good chance getting it "fixed" won't fix anything.
I've got 20k on my 2011 and still love it, only other real issue I've had was with the airbag light due to the harness under the seats. Had that fixed 10k miles ago and it's been fine.
Glad you still love it! I don't plan on ever getting rid of mine.
I went down to the dealer today, and a 2013 RT did the same exact thing with the power driver seat.
When they changed my seat track, the issue became worse, so they ordered another one.
I read somewhere someone had to have this done more than 3 or 4 times before the issue was fixed.
No matter what, I am keeping my RT for as long as possible. My dream would be to garage it after another year or two of driving, and keep it for my son in the future.
SRT8 IE 392 0056/1100
DWB, 6 Speed, SRT Option Group 2, NAV
12.467 @ 109.33 so far! (75 Degrees, 100% Humidity) First Mail Order BG Chrysler Tuned 392 First Blown 392 on a stock ECU
Also look into the DiabloSport Trinity which now supports 2011 and 2012 and doesn't require replacing the PCM, you can also get custom tunes for it if you do power mods.
Exactly. I have purchased new Bimmers and Benz's before with similar issues and a good detailing took care of the surface contamination issues.
I will look into the B&G ECU and Trinity.
Mine is a 2012, and my understanding is the 2012 and 2013's should be the same...?
Yeah, my issues are minor in comparison I lemon law'd a 2003 BMW 530I Sport after owning it for less than 6 months since it was at the BMW service center every other week for all kinds of electrical and computer glitches including my engine shutting down on me while doing 80mph on a the fwy (yeah I was speeding), but having your engine computer crash and shut down your engine in the middle of a fwy at night in LA is not a very good thing!
Yikes, I'd be majorly pissed with issues like that on a high-end car. I got you beat with a stall (ignition coils) at 90 on the 101 in my Crown Vic once... I was surrounded by traffic and that was not fun. Flashers, then Neutral, then restart all in the fast lane and at night too - that's when you appreciate good ergos and all controls up at the wheel.
After I posted I showed my car to a pro detailer who has a high-end clientele (LA celebs) and he actually thought that my Challenger's paint was good. I just washed it again wiped it down with Meguiars Ultimate Qwik Wax and, although the orange peel is visible when you pay attention, the car looks very good as it is so I'll leave it alone. Good enough for my taste and a daily driver.
Otherwise I have to wait for a Trinity tune for my '13, but both B&G and Diablosport can hook you up with your 2012 car. Plenty of comparisons between the two on the forum.
Just hit the 3k mark last week, and took my R/T in for her first oil change.
New issues:
1) Left side rocker cladding front tab is popped out, creating a slight sag/bulge. (Dealer ordered a new Rocker Cladding)
2) Hood Molding is rolling back along a 10" line (Dealer ordered a new molding)
3) Transmission hesitation going from reverse to drive (sporadic). I need to tap the gas for the car to actually engage and move forward. (Dealer wants to inspect the car next week).
Older issues resolved:
Chrome Clad wheels clicking. The dealer removed all 4 wheels, cleaned the wheel and hubs during the tire rotation and so far the clicking is gone.
Driver Seat track replaced (2nd time) and the shuttering clicking issue is now gone.
I have done a TB change before on another car, and we never really felt a significant improvement, but I seem to be reading a few Challenger owners saying the throttle response is improved with the 85mm TB. I am going to do the CAI first, and if I feel there is improved throttle response, I won't spend the $$ on a TB.
The Resonator delete is also something I am going to think about some more. I would love the improved sound, but I am also thinking of my hwy cruising, and how the louder sound coming from the back through the trunk will sound like.
I also want to turn off the MDS on my car as soon as possible.
Thanks,
Hawaii1970
Hawaii...
don't delete the resonators...it sounds like SH&T when the MDS engages..actually the stock mufflers are very good....go the lower price way and get some louvered 18" (or 12" glasspacks) in lieu of the resonators...other than that if you have the money....CORSA is the way to go. I have owned the 12" glasspacks, flowmaster, with, without resonators, any combination of the above and the best is the Corsa Extreme, but the glasspacks (blasting bob styled) is the very best for the money....its just sound, these exhaust systems are not going to enhance power neither is the CAI, but it looks good as hell under the hood and makes the motor breathe heavier. my 2 cents but follow my advice and you will save 1,000's and still be pleased with your sound
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