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Old 12-04-2012, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Yahooligan View Post
My driver's seat has the same "stutter" but it's only in one spot. Moves smoothly, stutter, continues moving. Same spot every time. I'm not going to mess with it since the seat doesn't get moved often and it sounds like there's a good chance getting it "fixed" won't fix anything.

I've got 20k on my 2011 and still love it, only other real issue I've had was with the airbag light due to the harness under the seats. Had that fixed 10k miles ago and it's been fine.

Glad you still love it! I don't plan on ever getting rid of mine.
I went down to the dealer today, and a 2013 RT did the same exact thing with the power driver seat.

When they changed my seat track, the issue became worse, so they ordered another one.

I read somewhere someone had to have this done more than 3 or 4 times before the issue was fixed.

No matter what, I am keeping my RT for as long as possible. My dream would be to garage it after another year or two of driving, and keep it for my son in the future.
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:40 PM
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Contact Red Baron (Steve Roos), They can do 2013 right now, it's worth the $940.00

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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2012, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by hawaii1970 View Post
I am going to look into the B&G tune tonight.

I want to get rid of MDS.

Thanks,
Hawaii1970
Also look into the DiabloSport Trinity which now supports 2011 and 2012 and doesn't require replacing the PCM, you can also get custom tunes for it if you do power mods.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by hawaii1970 View Post
Exactly. I have purchased new Bimmers and Benz's before with similar issues and a good detailing took care of the surface contamination issues.

I will look into the B&G ECU and Trinity.

Mine is a 2012, and my understanding is the 2012 and 2013's should be the same...?

Yeah, my issues are minor in comparison I lemon law'd a 2003 BMW 530I Sport after owning it for less than 6 months since it was at the BMW service center every other week for all kinds of electrical and computer glitches including my engine shutting down on me while doing 80mph on a the fwy (yeah I was speeding), but having your engine computer crash and shut down your engine in the middle of a fwy at night in LA is not a very good thing!
Yikes, I'd be majorly pissed with issues like that on a high-end car. I got you beat with a stall (ignition coils) at 90 on the 101 in my Crown Vic once... I was surrounded by traffic and that was not fun. Flashers, then Neutral, then restart all in the fast lane and at night too - that's when you appreciate good ergos and all controls up at the wheel.

After I posted I showed my car to a pro detailer who has a high-end clientele (LA celebs) and he actually thought that my Challenger's paint was good. I just washed it again wiped it down with Meguiars Ultimate Qwik Wax and, although the orange peel is visible when you pay attention, the car looks very good as it is so I'll leave it alone. Good enough for my taste and a daily driver.

Otherwise I have to wait for a Trinity tune for my '13, but both B&G and Diablosport can hook you up with your 2012 car. Plenty of comparisons between the two on the forum.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:22 PM
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Instead of resonator delete, I swapped for Blastin Bob's glass packs. Sound is now near perfect without being brappy. 6-speed R/T.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cannonballcobb View Post
Instead of resonator delete, I swapped for Blastin Bob's glass packs. Sound is now near perfect without being brappy. 6-speed R/T.
I wonder how these would sound on an Auto R/T with MDS disabled?
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:53 PM
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Just hit the 3k mark last week, and took my R/T in for her first oil change.

New issues:

1) Left side rocker cladding front tab is popped out, creating a slight sag/bulge. (Dealer ordered a new Rocker Cladding)
2) Hood Molding is rolling back along a 10" line (Dealer ordered a new molding)
3) Transmission hesitation going from reverse to drive (sporadic). I need to tap the gas for the car to actually engage and move forward. (Dealer wants to inspect the car next week).

Older issues resolved:

Chrome Clad wheels clicking. The dealer removed all 4 wheels, cleaned the wheel and hubs during the tire rotation and so far the clicking is gone.

Driver Seat track replaced (2nd time) and the shuttering clicking issue is now gone.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by hawaii1970 View Post
Thanks for the great input.

I have done a TB change before on another car, and we never really felt a significant improvement, but I seem to be reading a few Challenger owners saying the throttle response is improved with the 85mm TB. I am going to do the CAI first, and if I feel there is improved throttle response, I won't spend the $$ on a TB.

The Resonator delete is also something I am going to think about some more. I would love the improved sound, but I am also thinking of my hwy cruising, and how the louder sound coming from the back through the trunk will sound like.

I also want to turn off the MDS on my car as soon as possible.

Thanks,
Hawaii1970
Hawaii...
don't delete the resonators...it sounds like SH&T when the MDS engages..actually the stock mufflers are very good....go the lower price way and get some louvered 18" (or 12" glasspacks) in lieu of the resonators...other than that if you have the money....CORSA is the way to go. I have owned the 12" glasspacks, flowmaster, with, without resonators, any combination of the above and the best is the Corsa Extreme, but the glasspacks (blasting bob styled) is the very best for the money....its just sound, these exhaust systems are not going to enhance power neither is the CAI, but it looks good as hell under the hood and makes the motor breathe heavier. my 2 cents but follow my advice and you will save 1,000's and still be pleased with your sound
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Old 06-18-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hawaii1970 View Post
I went down to the dealer today, and a 2013 RT did the same exact thing with the power driver seat.

When they changed my seat track, the issue became worse, so they ordered another one.

I read somewhere someone had to have this done more than 3 or 4 times before the issue was fixed.
Took my 2011 RT to dealership over the same issue, they just smeared grease in the tract and said even if they replaced the motor or tract it would still do it. They put on the service ticket they found no issue with the seat. At least you guys got yours replaced. Mine still grinds today
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mrproffitt View Post
Took my 2011 RT to dealership over the same issue, they just smeared grease in the tract and said even if they replaced the motor or tract it would still do it. They put on the service ticket they found no issue with the seat. At least you guys got yours replaced. Mine still grinds today

On my 2012, the dealership ended up replacing 4 seat tracks, and two seat lower frames due to weird movement during the time I owned her. They also installed the new bolts for the seat per a TSB.

I had this problem day 1 with my 2012. literally when I picked up the car from the dealership, I noticed this right away.

You see I had to move my drivers seat forward to install one of my kids car seats, and this is when I noticed the klunk/grind with the drivers seat. I have two kids (twins), so I used my drivers seat (moving it forward and rear), whenever I had to get one of my toddlers into the car, so I feel I was just seeing and experiencing this issue more than some folks who might never really move their driver seat as frequently as I did.

When I was accelerating or braking hard enough, I felt the bottom of the drivers seat literally moving, and it was confirmed by the Service Manager at my service dealer that the lower seat frame was in fact moving/rocking back and forth, when it should not have been.

Before I traded in my 2012 for a 2014, the 2nd lower seat frame was installed, and the problem went away again.

My new 2014 does not have this issue so far.
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