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2012 R/T - Will start run for 3 - 5 seconds then dies

24K views 31 replies 18 participants last post by  switt 
#1 ·
I have a 2012, R/T Classic with about 17,000 miles on it. Intermittently (probably averages once a week at most) when I start my car, it will start fine, run for 3 - 5 seconds and then die. No warning lights after shut down. However, if I try and restart, it tries for seems like 30 seconds and will not fire. Once that push button starter engages is goes for a very uncomfortable length of time in trying to start. I have found if I take my foot off the brake and cycle through accessory mode and the run mode then try and start it again, it fires up as if nothing ever happened. It has done this since new but the frequency of the issue is increasing. Dealership has yet to duplicate. I had it twice in one day last week. Any ideas??
 
#2 ·
I had similar issues with my challenger fuel pump (Driver Side) replaced.but my ignition would start but my fuel pump won't activate or make its usual humming noise when in on.it didn't throw any CEL codes or anything it just went out so I took it to pepboys and I was right my fuel pump went out but I didn't know which side they ran a fuel pump test and found which pump it was
 
#4 ·
i bought a used pickup..loaded silverado chevy.previous owner had a remote start installed and removed it previous to trading it in.when he removed it he just twisted the wires back together instead of soldering them.when u moved the tilt wheel the truck did the same thing as your car.the wires would not get the right ohms going through them and set off the alarm which would kill the fuel pump.just something to look at hope it helps
 
#5 ·
When the car starts and stalls, does the security red led on the cluster flash? That part sounds like the "win" module is losing the sentry key coding. (As if you are putting the wrong key in the ignition) at least that is with the older models of dodge cars. I can't quite remember what keys the 2012s have. As for a guess I would say try using the second key and see if it starts with that one. It could be a bad key, or ignition switch/win module.
As for the crank for extended time, that is what the car is programmed to do. They actually have a name for it but again it escapes me at the moment.
The big problem is getting the car to act up at the dealership. Most dealerships will not attempt a repair till they can duplicate the concern. This is due to people using the lemon law. The mechanics are trained not to attempt repairs until they can duplicate. Honestly from being a mechanic at a dealership, if the customer is known to be a good person to deal with and actually wants the car to be fixed but willing to be patient, I would try different things to try to figure it out. I would feel out the dealerships in the area and if you find one with a service department that actually cares about their customers rather then take money and run I would try to work with them. I have found being more patient and calm when dealing with a problem like this makes for a smoother time during the repair.
 
#7 ·
I believe skim module is now incorporated into the win module that does push button start. Also if possible which I believe you can do on a 2012 is to remove the push button start button and try turning the key in the ignition
 
#10 ·
I'm having this exact same issue... any updates?
 
#12 ·
Bumping for visibility... would love to figure out whats going on.
 
#13 ·
My 2009 SRT would do exactly this on occasion. It didn't do it often enough to worry about but the symptoms were the same. I ended up ruling out everything (like the fuel pump, fob battery, etc.) except for the WIN module and didn't want to put out the $800 to get that fixed with it being such a rare occurrence. After some reading, I discovered that there are conditions where the car will actually start and then when the security protocols aren't met, it shuts down due to the bad "security handshake". Don't ask me why it would even allow it to start in the first place without the handshake, but it did. I never got any lights on the dash either but it would occasionally crank for 20 seconds or so right afterward without starting. The two times I got the long-crank-then-stop, however, it'd crank right up on the next try. Weird stuff, but I think it's all related to needing a new WIN module.

Mike
 
#15 ·
My strange problem continues. Another twist, the shut off issue appears to be cool/cold weather related. I drove the car all summer and not once did it shut off during start. However, now that the air temperature is cooling I have had the issue several times in the past couple of weeks. I guess it could be a coincidence but find that unlikely. I will continue to update as this issue continues. I now have about 20K miles on it.
 
#16 ·
Martyg,

Does this occur when you are normally starting the car or with remote start attempts?

Have you ever had your vehicle to a dealership to take a look at this?
 
#17 ·
Not sure this issue has ever happened using remote start. Happens when starting using the button. Happens randomly. In other words could be the first start of the day or several starts later. I have spoken to the dealer about it but since there are no codes they are skeptical since I can't duplicate on demand. Additionally, I don't have a great deal of trust in the local dealer I use. This has been happening for at least 2 years. It is more of an annoyance than anything. Probably averages twice a week.
 
#21 ·
#22 ·
Bump. Still having this issue. Has anyone been able to solve?
 
#23 ·
#24 ·
I have spoken to the service writers on various occasions and their response is if there no codes and since I can't duplicate at will, then there is nothing they can do. Unfortunately, I sold the car last week. Sad day, but life happens. I will buy another one in a few years, when the girls are out of college.
 
#27 ·
I'm having the same problem. 2012 Challenger R/T. Starts then dies then cranks for 15 annoying seconds. If I turn the accesories off right after it dies the car will start on the next push-button start. Happens about 3 - 4 times a week. Very annoying. I've taken the car to 2 different Dodge dealerships and they can't replicate the problem or fix. I don't want to have to only use the key to start the car if that is the only solution.
I would appreciate any help and I hope this is covered under warranty.
 
#28 ·
Hi DLat,

I do see a STAR case on file from 2013 that might be helpful to you and your dealership. It is case S1308000275 and advises the following:

"Intermittently, when the Go-Button is pressed, the vehicle could crank but not start. This condition could continue as long as the driver presses the Go-Button without removing their foot from the brake. The driver may also notice the red security light flashing.
The driver can exit the condition by momentarily removing their foot from the brake and pressing the Go-Button cycling the ignition to the off state before attempting to start the vehicle again."

Part of the repair process involves replacing the WIN module.

Kori
Dodge Social Care Specialist
 
#30 ·
Thanks for the quick replies. I will research the WIN module. I have read many other post from Dodge boards and the WIN module wasn't always the solution, nor the TIPM, battery, or key fobs. So I'm hoping this isn't a never ending problem or it might be time to sell in the near future. Only 50K miles and the problem started around 35K miles.
 
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