A friend of mine had this happen to his SRT8. One day he went out and the battery was dead. Took it in, and they found nothing wrong. This happend again and then on the 3rd time, he took it to the dealership and threw the keys at them and said call me when the problem is fixed. After a couple of weeks, they called and they had a few questions. The first question was did he have a 2nd fob, and the answer was yes. The second was did he lock his doors, and the answer was yes. They then asked where he kept his fob's, well he kept one on his key ring, and the other one was left on one of those key racks people have to hang keys on. This one was kept just inside the house from where the car was parked in the garage. They said, there is your problem. The car and fob are communicating and when the car is not used for a long period of time, 3-4 days, the battery would go dead.
He moved the fob to the other side of the house, and so far no problems. Battery has not died since.
Think of how close to the car you are keeping your fobs as this may be the problem if your battery has died.
Scotte
Funny I should find this thread today as this just happend to me this morning on my 2010. I haven't driven my car in about 5 days now and when I went out this morning to go nothing. I do keep my spare fob on the other side of a wall where my garage is located. I didn't have time to jump start it this morning and will just have to mess with it later. Thanks for the post!
A few weeks ago I posted an article concerning a dead battery in my 2010 RTC. If I did not drive the car for a week, the battery would be drained.
After ensuring that the ignition was off, I also TURNED OFF the Blue Tooth on my phone.
After a week of sitting idle in the garage, it starts up- no problem.
Who would have thought that this was the problem?
Has anyone else discoverd this?
It sounds like in your instance (bluetooth module) was not powering down - so the the canbus and the uConnect / Bluetooth was remaining on and drawing power...
Typically when ignition is off and doors are opened, it should cut power to accessories.
Similar situation has been with the Kicker (SRT) sub amps not powering down and drawing power and subsequently resulting in dead batteries. (Trunk 'heartbeat' symptom).
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2009 R/T 27J pkg (6 speed MT) ordered 7/17/08, built 10/23/08, home on 11/13/08
The Following User Says Thank You to Hal H For This Useful Post:
Well, add me to the list of dead Challengers. The car is stored for the winter but I was starting it up every 2 weeks just to keep things flowing. I went out 3 days ago and it was dead. I went around the car and noticed the the trunk was open (slightly) and since it can't unless there's power I'm going to assume I tripped it a week before while I was in the garage and that drained things.
I went and got a Battery Tender plus and hooked it up to the posts under the engine hood and the red charging light comes on solid. However, after nearly 3 days, the car is still completely dead.
Can I get some options here please. Anything that needs the dealer, I may as well wait until the spring. The garage it's in has like 3 inches on each side to back it out so I'm not eager to move the car unless it's running. Does it needs some sort of reset to kickstart things or a boost first?
I looked at the trunk battery and I'm too nervous to go poking around there. Too many wires, hoses and bolts for my comfort but buying a new battery isn't a concern if that's what needs to be done (ie. dead battery won't ever charge) I'll just get someone with a little knowledge to install it.
Is the Tender supposed to take this long on a V8? I'm assuming it's trying to charge but it's not convincing me at the moment. Does the car need a certain amount of battery charge before anything turns on in the car and I just need to wait it out?
If the battery is dead a tendered won't help. It states in the owners manual the battery has to have 3% charge or the tenderer won't charge it. You either need to take the battery to a place that can charge it or just buy a new battery. How old is the battery? I was told that once a battery is 100% dead you greatly decrease its life if you recharge it and use it in a car after that. If it is 2-3 years old you might be better to just buy a new battery right before you start driving it in the Spring.
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TorRed SE Model purchased: 2/05/09
TorRed R/T Classic ordered: 4/06/13
The car is 12 months old so I assume the battery is as well. But I suspect its got 0 charge so I guess that's why the Tender isn't helping. If I'm going to pull the battery I would rather buy a new quality battery than risk charging the oem dead one due to those concerns.
One other question. Is there any problems having the battery off on the car so long when it gets hooked up again? That is do the electronics and systems start working or does it take some mechanic work to calibrate things? Cars these days are have so many computer parts...
The car is 12 months old so I assume the battery is as well. But I suspect its got 0 charge so I guess that's why the Tender isn't helping. If I'm going to pull the battery I would rather buy a new quality battery than risk charging the oem dead one due to those concerns.
One other question. Is there any problems having the battery off on the car so long when it gets hooked up again? That is do the electronics and systems start working or does it take some mechanic work to calibrate things? Cars these days are have so many computer parts...
I doubt it but maybe someone can talk more about that.
Things you will need to do once you have a live battery back in the car. Obviously radio station presets have to be redone. Next is the auto drop feature of the windows. To recalibrate put the key into the ON position and roll the window all the way down and hold the button in the down position after it is all the way down for 5 seconds, then roll it up, holding the up position once the window is all the way up for 5 seconds. Do this over and over about 5 times and it should recalibrate this. If you have a sunroof you have to recalibrate that as well.
The car is 12 months old so I assume the battery is as well. But I suspect its got 0 charge so I guess that's why the Tender isn't helping. If I'm going to pull the battery I would rather buy a new quality battery than risk charging the oem dead one due to those concerns.
One other question. Is there any problems having the battery off on the car so long when it gets hooked up again? That is do the electronics and systems start working or does it take some mechanic work to calibrate things? Cars these days are have so many computer parts...
You might try a radio pre set saver at a auto parts store.
They operate of of a 9v battery and are relatively inexpensive.
I think around 10 bucks
Plug into your 12v outlet in the car.
Hi everyone. After searching these threads I've decided to come to you for some help
My 2010 RTC sat idle for one week and the battery was dead. I didn't leave the key on and the interior lights were off. After jumping the battery for about 10 mns. It finally started. My volt meter reads 14.2-14.4 volts with the engine running.
I drive it to the dealer and they say that its cranking 730 amps, the battery is good and can find no problems.
I must have a parasitic drain somewhere.
Has anyone else experienced this after just a week of not driving their car?
Any thoughts?
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