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Clank, Clatter, Knock - 392 Engine Noise

49K views 59 replies 17 participants last post by  Aukutsutsu 
#1 · (Edited)
So I suppose after 3 Challengers and 65,000+ miles on the current 2012 392 Challenger SRT, it's about time to go through engine problems/diagnosis.

Background - daily driven vehicle, no major issues; initially starting with a clunky transmission issue, almost as if there was a warped portion in driveshaft. Then engine knocking occurred as if a bad tank of gas went through. Knocking is still persisting. Occasional clunking in the bottom by crankshaft, more noticeable when the car is facing downhill or up on ramps.
While MDS is on, it sounds like a musical instrument drum roll (video of sound below).



Symptoms -
- while idle, car leaning downhill, in gear - engine crankshaft, transmission, driveshaft wobbles excessively and occasionally, repetitively clunks; feels as if the crankshaft is loose or there is a part that is warped causing the crankshaft to wobble. Visually inspecting underneath the car, with the belly pan off, the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer has about a 1/2inch or less wobbly play with the engine on; the belt tensioner shakes intermittently when the crank occasionally clunks. With a hand on the oil pan, you can feel the interment clunks shaking the engine.

- while driving, in manual or auto mode, easy acceleration in any gear results in a rpm dependent metallic clacking sound coming from center to low center of the engine, possibly between engine and transmission. The noise in city driving is mostly occurring between 1500-2000rpm.

- while driving highway, spurts of moderate to light acceleration results in metallic clanking/knock. The issue is amplified when MDS (fuel saver) kicks on, again clanking/knock noise while cruising 45-55mph (it sounds like a drum roll). On hard acceleration, there is no audible noise, however, during transmission shifts, initially for 1-2seconds upon completion of the gear change, the metallic clanking/knock occurs and then subsides. Also, light ease in-out of the accelerator, the clank/knock occurs and can be heard persistently.

So far,

The car has been to the dealership with the following diagnosis:

- overall dealership diagnosis: "had 4 technicians look at it and could not find anything mechanically wrong, probably just some spark knock"
- possible spark/fuel knock
- had a fuel treatment run through, knock was a little less, however metallic clank/knock is still there in the above mentioned symptoms
- recommend running a few tanks of gas
- supposedly did a compression/misfire test
-no engine codes
-says the crank pulley is ok even with the slight wobble


So far,

-I've run 3 tanks of gas through along with a Lucas Fuel Treatment: pure 91 octane through, 93 octane with ethanol
-I did a datalog with the stock tune and on certain points of acceleration seeking 6-7 ST Knock both short and Long. I think this is partially amplified because of mechanical knock somewhere from within the oil pan / connection with transmission.
-When the engine is cold, there isn't much noise at all. Once the engine gets above 180 deg and to operating temperature around 200+ deg, the knock, shake and clatter are fairly persistent.

I'm still leaning towards a crankshaft issue/harmonic balancer, timing chain issue, flex plate, valve knock, dirty fuel injector, spark plug replacement, but wanted to get forum feedback first. (will check sparks and injectors his weekend)

I am thinking that the Dodge service techs know there is an issue internally with the drivetrain, however, are waiting until it gets worse before they start turning wrenches

Thanks for your help and responses.

An update from today.

-Spark plugs and fuel injectors seem all ok from visual inspection with no unusual noise that sounds like the noise from the drum roll video.

The noise:

-The noise only occurs while the car is in Drive or Reverse. When in park or neutral, there is no noise when revving the engine.

-The noise is RPM dependent; as in the noise is consistent with knocking/clacking faster or slower depending upon how fast the engine is revving

-The noise occurs on light to moderate load on the engine.

-Occurs with MDS on or off; more prominent when MDS is on

-Occurs when in manual or auto transmission modes

-With the emergency brake on and car in gear, I can replicate the noise with the car staying still.

My guess right now is that is seems like something loose between engine and transmission.

-Pulled the transmission inspection plate off to peak at the flex plate. Didn't see any cracks or wear.

Interesting part now is that the knock is very prominent on any acceleration and constant load. If you get in to the engine hard, the knock goes away. If you're foot is out of the accelerator pedal and the car is coasting, there is no knock.

None the less, I don't think this is spark knock as the dealership has diagnosed...

Looks like back to the dealership Monday...



Here is the crank pulley video. The wobble is probably 1/4in give or less (visible by the shadow). I think the wobble is not actually the crank pulley because when I had the drivebelt off, there was no play in it. Even then, he dealer service tech, after viewing the video, says this is normal.



Took the vehicle out down the block for more testing.

I think the service department is not noticing the issue because the engine has to be warmed up/operating temperature before it gets really noticeable.



I did escalate the issue up through Chrysler Customer Service and got a case number from SRT to do a follow up on the issue so that hopefully Monday won't be "we couldn't find anything wrong / everything is in mechanical working order / it's just spark knock".

Diagnosis Update 11/10/2014 -

So the results of the Service Department diagnosis is bad lifters and a new battery (battery not part of the issue, however, it was just its time to be changed). They had to let the car sit idle for about 15-20 minutes before taking it on a test drive to warm up. Initially during their test drive, they didn't hear it but once they got going, it was really loud. They brought it back in the shop and even one of the mechanics said, "there's your noise" to the other tech

Also got a Misfire Code on cylinder #3 eventually.

I brought the car back home, listened for myself with a mechanic stethoscope and it sounds like the noise is coming from around cylinder #5 on the driver's side.



For reference, when MDS (fuel saver mode) occurs, cylinders 1-4-6-7 (red in the photo) shut down and 2-3-5-8 (yellow in the photo) continue to fire.

Parts are inbound and we'll see what happens after the installation. My gut still tells me there is more to this than just the lifters though.

Was also researching a bit from another forum. Spun Rod or Bad Lifter

Also got a call from SRT Customer Service. They mentioned that, since parts are ordered, to let this dealership do the service work. If not satisfied, they would send me to an SRT performance dealership. They also reassured that this would be covered under the Powertrain Warranty.

Final Diagnosis/Resolution 12/3/2014 -

I picked up the car today with all the warranty repairs conducted. Below is a summary of the final tech sheet:

"Customer states clunk noise from engine. Noticed while under vehicle that the harmonic balancer and tensioner pulley has excessive amount of movement. Tear down and found lifter damage. Cam Lobe on NO #3 damaged. Replaced Camshaft and Lifters"

Parts changed out:
-Lifters
-Head gaskets
-Camshaft
-Engine oil filter
-Oil 5w-40
-Antifreeze
 
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#2 ·
Some of what you describe is driveline lash or play. I have had 5 late model challengers and they all had it or it developed over time. This brand new car I have now had it from day one and I believe it is in the rear end. Going slow throttle on/off and I hear a clunk. But that is if I TRY to make it happen and dwell on it. In 99.9% of situations where you are driving normal I do not hear it.

The other noises you are hearing are probably flexplate (converter drive plate) bolts that are loose (or a cracked flexplate) or possibly a windage tray or something similar inside the oil pan has cracked or come loose and is contacting the crank.

It also could be the harmonic balancer elastomer is bad or something like that. Also the balancer will look like it is bad many times if you view it with the engine running. They are sometimes cast parts and are not perfect so they will appear to wobble. If you think it wobbles then remove the belt and grab it and give it a big push and pull to see if it is tight. Maybe smack it with a mallet.

The dealers can be a pain many times they do not want to believe anything is wrong. I freaking hate that! My White 2012 R/T trashed the 6 speed manual trans with 180 miles on it getting off the freeway. SERIOUS DEATH sounds that were in fact scary. I thought the trans might come through the floorboard! Unbelievably I drove it 40 miles to the dealer and it was acting somewhat normal by then. So they said there was nothing wrong with it. I had to escalate up the chain of command and REFUSED to take the car home unless they drained the oil out of it. Guess what.....oil drained out with metal chunks and then Dodge air freighted out a new trans. It was fixed within a week good as new.
 
#3 ·
Sounds like a harmonic balancer/crank pulley problem. Remove the belt and yank on the crank pulley. If there's more than zero movement, you've found a problem.

Just a guess, but it sounds to me like the outer ring on the balancer has slipped.

Also, no rotating part should have a half inch of wiggle.
 
#4 ·
An update from today.

-Spark plugs and fuel injectors seem all ok from visual inspection with no unusual noise that sounds like the noise from the drum roll video.

The noise:

-The noise only occurs while the car is in Drive or Reverse. When in park or neutral, there is no noise when revving the engine.

-The noise is RPM dependent; as in the noise is consistent with knocking/clacking faster or slower depending upon how fast the engine is revving

-The noise occurs on light to moderate load on the engine.

-Occurs with MDS on or off; more prominent when MDS is on

-Occurs when in manual or auto transmission modes

-With the emergency brake on and car in gear, I can replicate the noise with the car staying still.

My guess right now is that is seems like something loose between engine and transmission.
 
#5 ·
-With the emergency brake on and car in gear, I can replicate the noise with the car staying still.
That eliminates about everything but the torque converter and flexplate.

Both of those are in motion when the engine runs, but only stressed when under load. Could be a cracked flexplate, bad TC or internal trans problem. Either way, the tranny should come out for a look-see.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
-Pulled the transmission inspection plate off to peak at the flex plate. Didn't see any cracks or wear.

Interesting part now is that the knock is very prominent on any acceleration and constant load. If you get in to the engine hard, the knock goes away. If you're foot is out of the accelerator pedal and the car is coasting, there is no knock.

None the less, I don't think this is spark knock as the dealership has diagnosed...

Looks like back to the dealership Monday...

 
#7 ·
It doesn't sound like detonation, which is a lighter and slightly faster pinging. If the problem is detonation, the timing should start retarding as the sound starts, which you stated is happening, but I agree it's most likely the knock sensor reacting to another issue causing a similar sound.

With your reference to the wobbling pulley and the sound in the video, it almost sounds like a main bearing. If it were a rod bearing, the noise would always be present. At a minimum, drain some oil and look for contamination. If the oil sparkles or has little flakes, chances are a bearing is bad. If you really want to be sure, send the oil off for analysis. The analysis report will specifically detail the metal contents, which can help trace their source to a specific part or location. Also, report back to us with your hot oil pressure at idle.

Regarding your harmonic balancer, it should not wobble. If the outer ring is severely wobbling, it has broken its bond from the elastomer ring separating the inner and outer parts. Continued operation can severely damage a crankshaft (and valvetrain) over time, as the harmonic vibrations (resultant from the combustion process) are not being properly dampened. In very severe cases, crankshafts have been known to break in two. Also check the center bolt is tight. If not, you will need to lock the crankshaft and torque it to spec. And never hit the balancer with a mallet to install/seat...that's a sure way to damage the crankshaft thrust bearing. Use a balancer installation tool, which can be rented at most auto parts stores.
 
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#8 · (Edited)
Also, report back to us with your hot oil pressure at idle.

Regarding your harmonic balancer, it should not wobble.
Here is the crank pulley video. The wobble is probably 1/4in give or less (visible by the shadow). I think the wobble is not actually the crank pulley because when I had the drivebelt off, there was no play in it. Even then, he dealer service tech, after viewing the video, says this is normal.



Took the vehicle out down the block for more testing.

I think the service department is not noticing the issue because the engine has to be warmed up/operating temperature before it gets really noticeable.



I did escalate the issue up through Chrysler Customer Service and got a case number from SRT to do a follow up on the issue so that hopefully Monday won't be "we couldn't find anything wrong / everything is in mechanical working order / it's just spark knock".
 
#10 ·
The balancer movement in your video isn't out of the norm for a vehicle with some miles, but the movement shown in your video is something I usually see on high mileage engines (where the elastomer bond has started breaking down between the balancer hub and outer ring). I was concerned when you initially stated 1/2" of wobble.

Your oil pressures are acceptable, but the idle pressure is a little on the low end. My 2014 R/T usually idles in the high 30 psi range with the oil/coolant temps up to normal operating range, however I have a 5.7 and can't speak to the 392 specs specifically. Even my 1978 Trans Am runs 40 psi at idle, hot. A general rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm minimum. If the problem is indeed a bearing, a drop in oil pressure will be associated with the noise regardless if it is a main or rod bearing. Your large drop in oil pressure between the 110° to 161° oil temperatures is a little concerning.

Main bearings will usually rattle under heavy load and during initial (cold) start-up, whereas rod bearings will rattle under light load and coasting. If the problem is indeed a rod bearing, the symptoms could be masked with the MDS activated (and the respective cylinder deactivated). If you really want to narrow the problem down, place the transmission into autostick mode to deactivate the MDS and drive around and report back. This will ensure all cylinders are under load and will aid in further identification of the problem.

Before proceeding any further, take an oil sample. If there is any contamination (indicating a bearing failure), stop operating the vehicle immediately. Continued operating with a spun bearing will eat away at the crankshaft journal and can lead to crankshaft failure and more damage to the engine.
 
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#12 · (Edited)
Main bearings will usually rattle under heavy load and during initial (cold) start-up, whereas rod bearings will rattle under light load and coasting. If the problem is indeed a rod bearing, the symptoms could be masked with the MDS activated (and the respective cylinder deactivated). If you really want to narrow the problem down, place the transmission into autostick mode to deactivate the MDS and drive around and report back. This will ensure all cylinders are under load and will aid in further identification of the problem.
I'm leaning toward rod bearing, however, with MDS activated, the knock is amplified but still could just mean that it's occurring on a rod not under load.
 
#11 ·
What's the water pump like? If that is going bad, it will make a lot of noise and can really wiggle the belt around.

My water pump in the 2009 5.7 made terrible noises for nearly 60 miles before it puked some coolant out (in my garage as it turned out).
 
#13 ·
Since you can replicate the noise in drive with the brake on, try this:

Warm up the engine and pull the belt off. Run in drive against the brake for a few seconds, see if it makes the noise.

That will eliminate the water pump and other accessories.

The "belt tensioner jumping around" could be a bad belt-driven accessory, or a vibration from the crank.
 
#15 ·
Well, I suppose call it luck, but as I'm heading to the dealership this morning, the check engine light came on.

I had left my code reader at home so now hopefully they will have something to figure it out from.
 
#16 ·
That Hellcat can't come soon enough, maybe you should just let them take it on trade today and wait it out ;)
 
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#17 · (Edited)
Hehe indeed. Sadly the dealership I'm at offered their first Hellcat for $80,000 with $20,000 down. I eventually found out someone got it for $5,000 down (don't know their final price). Ironically, wearing a Hellcat t-shirt right now.

I'm very curious to see what becomes of the engine. At around 64,000mi, I wonder if this is something that other high mileage 392 engines are seeing, but none the less, it will be good to get the diagnosis to pass along to others.
 
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#18 ·
I'm not an experienced mechanic, but maybe you have a motor mount getting weak.
 
#19 ·
Well, came back with "it's a bad battery" in regards to the check engine light and communication errors. Said they wanted $210 just for that so that it would get rid of the check engine light.

Still waiting on the engine knock diagnosis.
 
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#22 · (Edited)
So the results of the Service Department diagnosis is bad lifters and a new battery. They had to let the car sit idle for about 15-20 minutes before taking it on a test drive to warm up. Initially during their test drive, they didn't hear it but once they got going, it was really loud. They brought it back in the shop and even one of the mechanics said, "there's your noise" to the other tech.

I brought the car back home, listened for myself with a mechanic stethoscope and it sounds like the noise is coming from around cylinder #5 on the driver's side.



For reference, when MDS (fuel saver mode) occurs, cylinders 1-4-6-7 (red in the photo) shut down and 2-3-5-8 (yellow in the photo) continue to fire.

Parts are inbound and we'll see what happens after the installation. My gut still tells me there is more to this than just the lifters though.

Was also researching a bit from another forum. Spun Rod or Bad Lifter

Also got a call from SRT Customer Service. They mentioned that, since parts are ordered, to let this dealership do the service work. If not satisfied, they would send me to an SRT performance dealership. They also reassured that this would be covered under the Powertrain Warranty.
 
#24 ·
So the results of the Service Department diagnosis is bad lifters and a new battery. They had to let the car sit idle for about 15-20 minutes before taking it on a test drive to warm up. Initially during their test drive, they didn't hear it but once they got going, it was really loud. They brought it back in the shop and even one of the mechanics said, "there's your noise" to the other tech.

I brought the car back home, listened for myself with a mechanic stethoscope and it sounds like the noise is coming from around cylinder #5 on the driver's side.



For reference, when MDS (fuel saver mode) occurs, cylinders 1-4-6-7 (red in the photo) shut down and 2-3-5-8 (yellow in the photo) continue to fire.

Parts are inbound and we'll see what happens after the installation. My gut still tells me there is more to this than just the lifters though.

Was also researching a bit from another forum. Spun Rod or Bad Lifter
So I can tell you from experience, a bad lifter will cause a hell of a lot of noise. Here is a trick I have found with cars with a composite intake. When the noise is occurring, if you lean over the engine, does it sound like the noise is coming from the intake? If so that is lifter noise most of the time
 
#25 · (Edited)
A bad hydraulic lifter (which is nothing more than a collapsed plunger spring) will cause roughness, but will usually clatter immediately upon start-up until the oil pressure pumps the plunger back up. In extreme cases, a bad lifter is the result of a broken roller pin (roller cams only). If the lifter is indeed bad, a cylinder compression test and vacuum gauge can both identify the problem.

Either way, at least the service department experienced the problem and will, at a minimum, dig into the engine.
 
#26 ·
A bad hydraulic lifter (which is nothing more than a collapsed plunger spring) will cause roughness, but will usually clatter immediately upon start-up until the oil pressure pumps the plunger back up. In extreme cases, a bad lifter is the result of a broken roller pin (roller cams only). If the lifter is indeed bad, a cylinder compression test and vacuum gauge can both identify the problem.

Either way, at least the service department experienced the problem and will, at a minimum, dig into the engine.
Question for you, how much occasional start-up clatter is "normal" for these engines. My old 6.1 and now 392 both will do it from time to time on cold starts. Not every time though and fresh oil always reduces it greatly and then it happens a bit more frequently as the oil gets older.
 
#27 ·
These engines do produce some mechanical noise. I'm not a Hemi expert (more of a Pontiac guy), but it probably has something to do with the extreme geometry of the valvetrain inherent with the Hemi design. This is further amplified when the MDS activates and the lifters essentially freewheel (for lack of a better term) to keep the valves closed on the deactivated cylinders. A collapsed lifter will make a few loud taps on the first start until the oil pressure pumps the plunger back up and closes the valve lash. A severely damaged lifter (i.e. broken roller that is now eating the cam lobe away) will create a constant tap and a flicker of the needle on a vacuum gauge. The tapping sound is produced by the excessive lash between the rocker arm and valve stem. The noise will also be much slower in pace, as the camshaft turns 50% of the crankshaft's speed.
 
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#30 · (Edited)
- while driving, in manual or auto mode, easy acceleration in any gear results in a rpm dependent metallic clacking sound coming from center to low center of the engine, possibly between engine and transmission. The noise in city driving is mostly occurring between 1500-2000rpm.

- while driving highway, spurts of moderate to light acceleration results in metallic clanking/knock. The issue is amplified when MDS (fuel saver) kicks on, again clanking/knock noise while cruising 45-55mph (it sounds like a drum roll). On hard acceleration, there is no audible noise, however, during transmission shifts, initially for 1-2seconds upon completion of the gear change, the metallic clanking/knock occurs and then subsides. Also, light ease in-out of the accelerator, the clank/knock occurs and can be heard persistently.
This is the part that describes the noise my car makes perfectly. I have just over 30,000 miles on the car and it's a daily driver year round (rain, sleet, snow, and slush). Of course I don't have MDS with the manual. I notice it mostly in 2nd or 3rd gear between 1.5 to 2.5 thousand RPM under light to medium acceleration. Also have that where it gets real metallic if you give it some gas on the highway for a couple seconds and then seems to subside even while still giving gas.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Take it in to the dealership to check on the lifters. They finally were able to hear mine once the engine was completely up to operating temperature (200+ deg F), and was sitting idle for about 15 minutes. After that, they took it for a drive and the knock was very audible. They were even able to hear it at idle.

Today I finally got a check engine light for a misfire on Cylinder #3 , but the dealership already has new lifters on order. My gut tells me a rod is bent though.
 
#32 ·
In the meantime, do not operate the vehicle. I can't stress this enough. You definitely have internal mechanical damage. Any further operation will only result in further damage and metal particles floating throughout the engine causing further damage. The oil filter will remove most of the small particles, but pieces in excess of the oil pump pick-up screen mesh holes will remain in the oil pan.

Your rods should be fine. The only way to bend a rod is through hydraulically locking the cylinder (i.e. water ingestion into the cylinder). Severe over-revving can damage rods, but this is usually only a problem with aluminum (race) rods, which will stretch before failure. Steel rods will either break at the bolts or somewhere in the middle. Luckily, the factory rev-limiter will prevent any damaging over-rev situations with the exception of a miss-shift (from a high gear into a lower gear that will result in an rpm into the redline) with a manual transmission. Pushrods can also bend under severe rpm.

Keep in mind, the emission control system is just that, for monitoring and control of the emission system. The ECM will not produce a trouble code for mechanical damage. The on-board computers simply monitor and control the function of its electronic components. A misfire code is the result of a bad coil module or spark plug causing exactly that--a misfire condition. If continuously operated with this condition, the catalytic converter can be damaged. The misfire could be the result of a bad component as I mentioned, or the result of a fouled plug from something (oil, coolant, fuel, etc.) fouling the spark plug for that respective cylinder.

In the meantime, just park the car. I'd hate to see you damage your Challenger any further. Wait for the parts and request the dealer tow the vehicle to their location.
 
#33 ·
I debated opening another thread for 2015 Hemi Tick because I'm afraid this will get lost here, but here goes. Today while sitting in the drive thru line at Taco Bell, I noticed a slight tick-tick-tick (2015 SRT). You can't hear it in the car and I only heard it when sitting next to the drive thru wall with the sound bouncing back. When I got home, I let it idle and walked around it. You can barely hear it just walking around the front but when you put your head down near one of the wheel wells, it's loud enough to notice. Tick-tick-tick at a rate of about 4 per second.

I think my old 6.1 made that same faint tick and I don't want to be over-paranoid. I think that's probably normal Hemi tick, but what do you think?

Mike
 
#37 ·
Hope they get you back up and running quietly soon Ray.
I guess I've had my 392 over the stock redline up to 6600 over 1K times (3 times per qtr mile run) and a few on the street. She is a little more tickier than when it was new but still normal. I run with half covers and injector insulators removed which makes it a little louder. I do change the oil after 20 runs or so and use the SRT filters.
Not like the old 5.9s, I went through a lot of roller lifters each year tracking the Dak R/T.
 
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#38 ·
I guess some faint ticking is normal on the 392's. I might switch to the SRT filter next oil change and maybe different oil. Do you think Redline oil would be better than the Mobil 1 0w40 (for ticking I mean)? Minimizing the ticking can't hurt because to me, ticking = friction and friction = wear.

Mike
 
#41 ·
I run the SRT P/N 5038041AA filter. Oil pressure is a tad higher at idle and crusing.
I think they are the Viper SRT Filters. $12 each at my closest dealer. I have two jeeps with 5.7s and they tick a little. I run Mobil 1 0-40 (in the 392) and Mobil 1 5-20 in the 5.7s. Had an '04 Ram that sounded the same. They say only use the viscosity required so the MDS and VVT work properly.
In older engines with solid roller lifters, a little tick at idle was normal. If you adjusted them to be quiet, they wouldn't lift as good at 6K RPM.
 
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#42 ·
Yeah I just ordered that PN from Amazon so I'll have it for my next change. Oddly enough, after driving a longer distance today, I couldn't even hear the tick when I parked in the garage tonight. It's so slight it's hard to hear anyway, but I did tighten the intake manifold bolts again today, so don't know if that had anything to do with it (some say it does). I've tightened those twice now and will be reluctant to do it again. And like the first time, I only tightened to 1/2 the spec (50 in/lb) as I'm scared of warping the plastic. In any case, they were loose again but not as bad as the first time. This time they had loosened to about 30 in/lb. Initially they were about 10!

Mike
 
#44 ·
After listening to your recordings, I have to tell ya, it's what I'm hearing on mine and I can't get anyone to do anything about it.

It seems there are quite a few of us here with the problem of TICKING/CLACKING engines. I've created a separate area directly to Dodge Cares at Dear Dodge Cares: to address the issue with all of us. I am compiling a list of Challengers that have this awful ticking and if you would like to be included, just PM me by clicking on my name. I'm hoping if we have enough force behind us here that Dodge will finally listen and fix our cars. Some have gotten good service, some are getting good service, one here is getting a new engine.. while the rest of us listen to the tickatickaticka constantly.. I refuse to accept the noise I'm hearing as "normal". I want my car fixed and I'm sure many of you do too! Join me above and hopefully Dodge will answer sooner or later.

Thank you all for your support!
 
#45 ·
A little update. In addition to the lifters being replaced, they have a replacement camshaft inbound as one or some of the lobes were worn down from the lifter.
 
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