Just a thought here but if you had not modified your Dodge by adding aftermarket HID headlights, it would not have so many electrical problems. Maybe the next vehicle your purchase will have factory installed (and warrantied) HID headlights.
How am i to know that this was going to happen? as I said Ive had the exact same HID kit running on my truck for years now and never once had an electrical problem caused by it. not to mention all the other aftermarket electricals that truck has wired to it.
yeah they said it was the TIPM, so this thing is to blame?
.....good grief. Take responsibility much?
HINT: you are to blame for the aftermarket HID kit you installed (whether it was installed wrong or due to incompatibility issues......makes no difference).
Adding a new sound system is fine if tapped into the battery for voltage. A new headunit is fine as well since it can be tapped into the existing radio harness.
Problems occur when you tap into the TIPM for new things like HIDs/fogs that weren't installed from the factory. If any new loads are introduced to the TIPM it better be programmed for it. This applies to new OEM equipment with the proper programming salescodes. Adding non OEM stuff to the TIPM is not a good idea and must be avoided.
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NoVa Sports Car Club, VA
http://youtu.be/f5EIs8Vnzwk - Sweet Blown T-Bucket driving up at our Sunday meet
Adding a new sound system is fine if tapped into the battery for voltage. A new headunit is fine as well since it can be tapped into the existing radio harness.
Problems occur when you tap into the TIPM for new things like HIDs/fogs that weren't installed from the factory. If any new loads are introduced to the TIPM it better be programmed for it. This applies to new OEM equipment with the proper programming salescodes. Adding non OEM stuff to the TIPM is not a good idea and must be avoided.
So what are people doing differently that are running aftermarket hid kits in their challengers and not having this problem? You mentioned running the power wire to the battery with an inline fuse but the HID relay wiring harness already has one in the wire going to the power, but it wasn't blown.
and as far as stereo systems go, won't the addition of amps for subs and speakers affect this tipm since there wasn't one there before?
I guess the next question should be was that fuse sized correctly?
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2010 Plum Crazy SRT8 with Manual Transmission-------
Mods list: K&N Typhoon CAI, Skip Shift Eliminator , Petty Strut Tower Brace, Diablo Predator 91CAI tune, License Plate backup camera with Lockpick V2, mini spare tire and adapter, Moroso Catch Can, some BT bling, 3rd brake pulser, Larry's mod Hurst shifter, coming soon Web Electric Sequential tail lights and LED under door lights
So what are people doing differently that are running aftermarket hid kits in their challengers and not having this problem? You mentioned running the power wire to the battery with an inline fuse but the HID relay wiring harness already has one in the wire going to the power, but it wasn't blown.
and as far as stereo systems go, won't the addition of amps for subs and speakers affect this tipm since there wasn't one there before?
Wow, let's try this a 3rd(?) time. Do NOT attach additional load to the TIPM (Fuse/Relay box under the hood)..
All additional load needs to be connected to the BATTERY. Doesn't matter if it's HIDs, stereo, etc. DO NOT tap the TIPM for power. It doesn't matter if you have a fuse or not, that's not the issue.
If you plan on adding multiple accessories then I would suggest running a properly-sized wire from the battery to an aftermarket fuse block mounted under the hood. This will let you connect multiple accessories to fused power without having to run a wire all the way back to the battery for each one.
I had a recent issue with a DDM tuning kit. My relay harness melted. It first blew the 20amp supplied fuse. I installed a 30 amp fuse and all worked well for that night. I noticed a few days later my passenger side wouldn't ignite, but drivers worked fine. That's when I tore in and found the melted harness. My guess is a malfunction that caused the wires to heat up and the larger fuse I installed. The 30 amp fuse never blew even with the harness melted together. I've always seen the kits come supplied with a 30 amp fuse though, maybe this latest harness wasn't built with the right wiring to support a 30 amp fuse.
I installed a new kit from XenonDepot. My guess is crappy components from DDM Tuning these days. Even though I've had 4 kits on 2 other Jeeps without issues. This 5th kit crapped out. I will not be buying DDM kits anymore.
I installed both kits to the stud in the fuse box for 12v power and grounded to the frame. I've never had issues using the stud in the fuse box for power before on 05 and 07 Jeeps. The Mopar sounds system upgrades use that stud for power, figured it can run some lights.
The XenonDepot kit seems to be working fine so far. This is on my 2012 Jeep SRT8. This is new info to me about using the fuse box for power. How is it any different than connecting to the battery? If I disconnect the bolt on the stud that looses power from the battery. Seems like its basically the same connection?
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