55k miles on my 09 R/T. Had this problem since about 25k miles, can't really remember but it's been getting worse. This last week has been the pits to drive, Down shifting was really hard to pull out of one gear but easy to shift into the intended gear, ie, 5th hard to get out but 4th easy to get in. Up shifts were ok. Creeping at a stop light getting more often, hard to pull out of gear and slip into neutral.
I had enough since our local dealer said they would need the car for a week to do the work. Even though it would be fixed under warranty I decided to fix it myself today. The shop was really slow this afternoon so I looked up the labor for trans R&R, just about 3 hours. Took off the exhaust and driveshaft, disconect the main trans harness on left side of trans, trans jack it out of the way.
Now to inspect the input shaft, No grease of any kind. Powdery rusy surface. Not very good surface to get the clutch disc's to slide on.
Trans input shaft looked the same as inside the clutch hubs. Took my small brass brush and cleaned all the rusty surfaces. Not very hard to clean off. Used a small acid brush to apply a very thin coating of synthetic high temp grease to splines and clutch hubs. Put it all back together and test drive. I have a brand new car! NO ISSUES AT ALL with any of the old symptoms. Smooth shifting now. and from pulling it in my bay to driving away was 2.5 hours. I should have done this 20k miles ago! Now to replace the leaking left rear axle seal, it's under warranty too but I don't need them to keep my car for a week to do a 2 hour job.
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1948 Dodge Pick-Up Street Rod
1967 Jeepster Commando 4X4
2004 Dodge Caravan (The Wifes Wagon)
55k miles on my 09 R/T. Had this problem since about 25k miles, can't really remember but it's been getting worse. This last week has been the pits to drive, Down shifting was really hard to pull out of one gear but easy to shift into the intended gear, ie, 5th hard to get out but 4th easy to get in. Up shifts were ok. Creeping at a stop light getting more often, hard to pull out of gear and slip into neutral.
I had enough since our local dealer said they would need the car for a week to do the work. Even though it would be fixed under warranty I decided to fix it myself today. The shop was really slow this afternoon so I looked up the labor for trans R&R, just about 3 hours. Took off the exhaust and driveshaft, disconect the main trans harness on left side of trans, trans jack it out of the way.
Now to inspect the input shaft, No grease of any kind. Powdery rusy surface. Not very good surface to get the clutch disc's to slide on.
Trans input shaft looked the same as inside the clutch hubs. Took my small brass brush and cleaned all the rusty surfaces. Not very hard to clean off. Used a small acid brush to apply a very thin coating of synthetic high temp grease to splines and clutch hubs. Put it all back together and test drive. I have a brand new car! NO ISSUES AT ALL with any of the old symptoms. Smooth shifting now. and from pulling it in my bay to driving away was 2.5 hours. I should have done this 20k miles ago! Now to replace the leaking left rear axle seal, it's under warranty too but I don't need them to keep my car for a week to do a 2 hour job.
Nicely done..
I wish I had a lift to do this kind of stuff, I miss the old days of being able to pull my car into my bay and do work on it after hours or when it was slow.
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"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not.."
-Thomas Jefferson
Maggie, the other woman.. ^^^
Magnuson SC - Mopar Coilovers - Billet Stuff - Homegrown CAI - CDT Audio upgrade - Misc Other Stuff
I have a 2009 R/T 6 47k mi and it has the sticking in gear issue. Took it in for an oil change and the tech got it stuck in first in front of the service advisor. I mentioned the Star Scan case and he said they would fix it.I mentioned the mi and that a new clutch might be in order. Since the trans was going to be out anyway he agreed that if I bought the parts they would do the labor against the Star case. Anyway I got the car back tonight and everything is much better than before.It shifts better the clutch isn't as stiff and the trans seems to be quiter.Kudos to the dealer
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09 DWB 6sp R/T
70 AAR Cuda
70 Cuda Vert
I have a 2009 R/T 6 47k mi and it has the sticking in gear issue. Took it in for an oil change and the tech got it stuck in first in front of the service advisor. I mentioned the Star Scan case and he said they would fix it.I mentioned the mi and that a new clutch might be in order. Since the trans was going to be out anyway he agreed that if I bought the parts they would do the labor against the Star case. Anyway I got the car back tonight and everything is much better than before.It shifts better the clutch isn't as stiff and the trans seems to be quiter.Kudos to the dealer
How many miles on ur car and how'd the clutch look?
How many miles on ur car and how'd the clutch look?
I didn't look at it. It wasn't giving any problems but since the trans was going to be down for the service I had them change it out. The clutch and pressure plates are apparently a one piece deal and not easy to take appart.The car has 47000 miles on it
I have a 2011 R/T plus, and mine began having the same symptoms as the op a couple weeks ago. If I park on an incline with the car in gear it won't budge. I am also having intermittent problems shifting into first and second. I took it to the dealer and gave them the STARR code mentioned above, and told them I understand it only applies to 09's and 10's but I am having the same problems. They kept my car overnight and told me my car is fine and I shouldn't park on inclines with the car in gear. Are any other 2011's having this issue?
I have a 2011 SRT8 with this issue just now coming to light at 12,000 miles. It has worked great up till recently and now it gets stuck in first gear a lot, there's times when shifting to the next gear is not very smooth, and me and my wife have been grinding the gears from time to time and we just look at each other and cringe! I hate it and it seems to be getting worse. I fear taking it into the dealer and them not doing a good job so I'm probably going to have to do this repair myself. Any special tools needed for this job or any advice anyone has to share that's repaired this themselves? Thanks,
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2011 Challenger SRT8 GWE M6 with reso delete.
I have a 2011 SRT8 with this issue just now coming to light at 12,000 miles. It has worked great up till recently and now it gets stuck in first gear a lot, there's times when shifting to the next gear is not very smooth, and me and my wife have been grinding the gears from time to time and we just look at each other and cringe! I hate it and it seems to be getting worse. I fear taking it into the dealer and them not doing a good job so I'm probably going to have to do this repair myself. Any special tools needed for this job or any advice anyone has to share that's repaired this themselves? Thanks,
there really aren't any special tools needed just normal mechanics metric set. The biggest thing that helps is a lift and a trans jack. I did not remove the clutch from the flywheel I just used a brass or copper brush like a toothbrush and cleaned all the splines. Then use the acid brush with some silicone brake caliper grease and lubricated the splines lightly.reassembled and test drove. Now it's just like a brand new car
55k miles on my 09 R/T. Had this problem since about 25k miles, can't really remember but it's been getting worse. This last week has been the pits to drive, Down shifting was really hard to pull out of one gear but easy to shift into the intended gear, ie, 5th hard to get out but 4th easy to get in. Up shifts were ok. Creeping at a stop light getting more often, hard to pull out of gear and slip into neutral.
I had enough since our local dealer said they would need the car for a week to do the work. Even though it would be fixed under warranty I decided to fix it myself today. The shop was really slow this afternoon so I looked up the labor for trans R&R, just about 3 hours. Took off the exhaust and driveshaft, disconect the main trans harness on left side of trans, trans jack it out of the way.
Now to inspect the input shaft, No grease of any kind. Powdery rusy surface. Not very good surface to get the clutch disc's to slide on.
Trans input shaft looked the same as inside the clutch hubs. Took my small brass brush and cleaned all the rusty surfaces. Not very hard to clean off. Used a small acid brush to apply a very thin coating of synthetic high temp grease to splines and clutch hubs. Put it all back together and test drive. I have a brand new car! NO ISSUES AT ALL with any of the old symptoms. Smooth shifting now. and from pulling it in my bay to driving away was 2.5 hours. I should have done this 20k miles ago! Now to replace the leaking left rear axle seal, it's under warranty too but I don't need them to keep my car for a week to do a 2 hour job.
Outstanding Job! I too wish I had the setup in order to do my own repairs.
Its mind boggling how dry it is. Looks like nothing was ever applied.
What’s more mind boggling is that the Chrysler Group is doing nothing to address this issue.
Challenger is in the shop at dealer. Had to use Chrysler Customer Care to get any action. First case manager was a ****** bag. Re-opened another case, now progress... Service advisor called yesterday and said they are dropping the tranny today looking at the splines. Authorized a rental. Will see what's next....
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2010 R/T Classic, 6 speed manual
MODS: 30% and 20%tints, BT-nose button, BT-door sills, BT-catch can, K&N CAI, SOLO Mach X, airbag sticker removal, front license plate bracket tie wrapped lower mod, DRL's Activated, Skip-Shift eliminator, Passport 8500 Blue Light Radar detector w/blend mount wired through powered mirror, Hood props, WebElectric Flashers, Solo MachX cat-backs,
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