The problem is that the encryption software (Keeloq) doesn't do well with cheap electronic parts. I spoke to one of the architects behind KeeLoq a few years back when we first encountered this problem, and he told me that Chrysler decided to use cheap, foreign, electronics parts, so that's the cause.
The fix is to re-flash the WIN module. The new programming is believed to knock the encryption to a much lower level and thus leaving the car less secure. Presumably, the car communicates with the key fob better with lighter encryption.
Still, if the WIN module (behind the dash next to the steering column) heats up, i.e., the car sits in the hot sun for a long period of time, then you're going to experience the problem again, regardless of whether or not the car has been re-flashed.
The problem is that the encryption software (Keeloq) doesn't do well with cheap electronic parts. I spoke to one of the architects behind KeeLoq a few years back when we first encountered this problem, and he told me that Chrysler decided to use cheap, foreign, electronics parts, so that's the cause.
The fix is to re-flash the WIN module. The new programming is believed to knock the encryption to a much lower level and thus leaving the car less secure. Presumably, the car communicates with the key fob better with lighter encryption.
Still, if the WIN module (behind the dash next to the steering column) heats up, i.e., the car sits in the hot sun for a long period of time, then you're going to experience the problem again, regardless of whether or not the car has been re-flashed.
Hhhmmm....maybe that's why it only did it when I was in Florida? No garage, just covered parking.
We will see what happens when it's not in the garage now that it's getting warm here in NJ.
__________________ 2010 Challenger SRT 8 Auto - Bright Silver
WebElectric Sequential Tail Lights, BT Catch Can, Silver Amber Bulbs, RPI Stealth Splash Guards, Interior Trim Welt
Im having this exact same issue on my 2010 that I just bought two days ago.
Both keys open and access all things. One key starts car, one will not. I bought used. Looks like the dealer just got one key and programed another because it has a chrysler symbol on the back. The emergency keys are both cut correctly.
__________________
2010 Challenger SRT8
2012 Toyota Camry SE
2011 Subaru Outback
Mine was working fine on my '09 until I got it serviced last week. Now I get "fob not detected" flashing on my EVIC. Changed the batteries on both and its still the same. Maybe I'll try my other fob.
start the car with the key fobs in the ignition (and drive a bit), sometimes this will help reset the fob so as not to get the "key fob not detected" I have done this now on two cars and it worked well, usually this also means the battery in the fob is weak..
__________________ -Detonator R/T Classic & B5 Blue SRT8 (Former, but not Forgotten...) 2008 HOChallenger SRT8. Mopar CAI, Diablo Predator, Taillight Sequentials, Mopar front strut tower brace, Mopar "Challenger" door sill plates, Mopar "T" handle shifter, Mopar Bright Pedals
Actually after reading another thread I took the batteries out and cleaned them, putting them back in without touching them. Seems to have worked (so far).
I have a 2009 dodge challenger reading "damaged key fob", i guess i need to update the software for the key because the PCM was recently updated. But when i automatic start the car from the outside, the car runs for about 10 sec then turn off. Not sure whats the prob but can anyone help or reccomend what is required to keep the car running? One more thing, when i bought the car from the dealer they gave me, what looks like 2 fobs, one is the key fob and the other is some small looking fob reads "FCC 10 IDICW2KP-05" whatever that is, see pic. Do any one knows what the smaller fob is used for?
Actually after reading another thread I took the batteries out and cleaned them, putting them back in without touching them. Seems to have worked (so far).
Buy the batteries in quantity on eBay for about fifty cents apiece. Use Sony or Maxell or Panasonic or another GOOD brand and be sure they are all dated for about 10 years ahead (2021-2022) (Don't buy the no-name or weird name ones as the quality is suspect!) Then change out the battery every 6 months or so as a precaution.
Cheap insurance. Sure, as one said, it's overkill and may not prevent all issues, but since the remotes are so voltage sensitive, one that works flawlessly at the full 3 volts when the battery is new, will fail when it drops to 2.6 volts or less, which isn't much when you think of other electronic devices. Plus, if you have the Keyless and Go entry system, and carry that remote around your car a lot, it's always sending a signal so the battery can wear down quick.
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