Check your coolest level and pull the dip stick and check the oil on it. I would get it in soon and have them look at it even if it is just a drive by and talk to the service advisor and see if he can have a tech look at it really quick out side of the car.
Yes check your dipstick, if it looks ok and not like a chocolate shake it is probably just condensation in your catch can. A lot of times you will see it underneath your oil cap especially if you don't drive the car often and get it hot to burn it away. If it is your dipstick also then you have some issues such as a leaking head or intake gasket. Do not drive, antifreeze is real bad for engine bearings.
Like the previous post, if the oil on your dipstick looks normal, it's just condensation build up in the catch can. That' can happen from frequent short trips and never getting the engine to operating temp.
DO NOT DRIVE IT!!!! Your motor oil is compromised!! Like others have said, somehow water, or coolant has gotten into your motor oil and it's no longer lubricating your engine. Your engine will fail in short order if you continue to drive it.
Either there's a head gasket issue or the seals between the timing cover and the front of the engine block (the coolant passages pass through the timing cover to the water pump).
Having owned an Audi 2.8 V6 from the early '90s, this is an uncomfortably familiar subject. Generally a head gasket has to let go to allow the coolant and oil to mix which then produces the dreaded chocolate milk.
You've received good advice here, don't drive it in this condition. The situation has to be investigated and fixed.
2 things to consider, 1 it may be nothing more than a gasket that was improperly torqued down or folded over when the engine was assembled, or 2 it could be as serious as a bent head. In any event, it should be flat bedded to your dealer.
Or worst case... a cracked block or head.
Some times you get lucky and the coolant finds its way into the cylinder... which makes for instant white smoke and an easy spot that somethings wrong. (like a mosquito sprayer at the shore in the 60's)
Like everyone else said... get it to the shop asap. Personally I would have it towed there.
Good luck.
I would call the dealer and have towed. If you call them they might cover the tow under warranty to a point also. You should have roadside assistance/towing coverage from Chrysler anyhow.
I am also surprised to see that much fluid in your catch can. I'll empty mine every 3000 miles, and there is maybe 3/4 of an inch. After a year I have about 6 ounces in a pop bottle. Yours is topped off, so, yeah, something ain't right.
Here's my catch can waste oil after about 1 year:
:guiness:
Thats seriously bad. I just had this happen on my truck. Ended up being the timing cover gasket. That was on an old 360 block so not sure if these have a similar design. The whole engine should be disassembled and all the bearings changed since it is under warranty. That could seriously effect the longevity of the motor. It could be fixed now but could cause a premature bearing failure down the road when the warranty is expired
This sounds really bad. Whats the protocol on this are they going to have to take the whole engine apart ect? What do you guys think the wait time on this fix will be?
you said your car was in the shop for repairs, and right after you got it back you noticed this problem? Ummm, did they drive the car on a quick joy ride and blow the head gasket??
They are a pretty respectable shop and my father knows the owner but honestly I'll never know. I'm an idiot and didn't write down the mileage when I dropped it off, I was in a rush because of work.
Oh yes it can sir. We don't know what happened to this engine but if there was a weak point some where in there it could easily fail if the conditions were right, (IE if it got a little to hot for just a bit). Not that these engines are known to get too warm of course...heh, heh, lol!!!
I have had many blown head gaskets on my cars and my customers cars over the years. Mostly on vintage automobiles but a few modern ones as well.
The first step will be to pull the cylinder heads to check for blown head gasket or warped cylinder head/head not true.
Another possibility is a flaw in the casting of the block (or a crack within the block), allowing coolant to leak internally within the crankcase.
If those are ruled out, the next is to pull the timing cover and see if there's evidence of those seals having failed.
Either way, the coolant (50%) reduces the lubrication properties of the oil and that can lead to bearing damage or damage to crank journals or cam journals.
Either way, your warranty is going to cover this - likely a defect in materials or assembly of the engine.
Here's a shot of what the front of the block looks like with timing cover removed - the two round holes (by upper/ cam sprocket) are coolant passages that go through the cover to the water pump. If there are leaks in that area it would go right into the oil pan which is open to the bottom of the timing cover:
I agree with all the above posters. You more than likley washed the bearings out also.
Another problem that comes up later on, is sometimes the heads get hot as air may lock it up or just being low on antifreeeze.
When the head gets hot the Hemi 5.7 likes to drop valve seats. Then it just hammers itself apart. That happens on down the road or maybe the first day. Never know. Id have them look into that known fact.
FlatTop
OP this is real simple. A new 2013 (?) - this just shouldn't happen under normal wear.
It is covered by your drive train warranty. Don't let them tear it down and rebuild it. Ask for a completely new engine, you can do that - You don't want to take a chance that some 40K miles down the road something internally goes wrong - again, ask for a new engine, and have them also replace all the down stream hoses and lines - so it is as if it never occurred. You may need to force them to communicate with the Regional Service Manager. You can ask to speak with the RSM if they are not complying.
Where are you located?
Yes its a new 2013 RT. I live in Boston Massachusetts. Is it that easy to request a new engine? Are they obligated to do that? Also in your opinion how long do you think it would take to get my car back, If I had that done?
Also the dodge dealer I bought it from is like an hour away but there is another dodge dealer about 20 minutes from my house. Does it matter which dodge dealer I go to for warranty work?
You can bring your car to any dealer for warranty work.
Imagine if you bought your car, then moved to another area. You the owner can't be expected to have to travel back to where you bought the car from.
Warranty claims are submitted to Chrysler by the dealer for approval (for the work) and to get paid for the labor and parts used for the warranty repair.
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