The only way to get a 10 out of the hole quickly is to slip the clutch. Unfortuantely, the clutch pays the price. And the OEM hydraulics are also problematic., due to heat and Dodge going with a cheap plastic slave cylinder.
haha. I had the slave replaced but only once. My clutch lasted because I can drive even taking off a hole shot. The key was to depressurize the 22's to like 18psi and MAN would they stick well. Although any power adders such as a VECII or blower you needed weld wheel 17's so you can get slics on. Those 15" rotors and 4 piston god knows what calipers could stop that truck on a dime.
I didnt buy a muscle car to try and save fuel (MDS or 6 cylinders)
There are soooo many practical, and generally better cars out there for commuting and daily driving.My regret is falling in love with an R/T and getting a decent deal and then realizing I could have got a cheap used SRT
I thought you could tune the '12s now?
I simply disabled my MDS,firmed up the shift points and increased the throttle responce by 20% and I don't recall a bog
I read you didn't want to spend $$$ on a tuner,
Do you really want something else?
Like what ?
Will you be happy?
Tune it and have some fun
I've experienced the bogging problem off and on since I took delievery of my '09 R/T. Had it at the dealership to fix the problem four times. First time, they had no idea what it was or how to fix it. They cleared the fault codes, downloaded updates to the computer, and problem immediately returned. They had to get on the phone with the corporate techs/engineers to come up with a fix. Was told my Challenger was only the second one in the country to have experienced this problem. It would drop in and out of MDS in any form of accelleration. Turned out to be the cam or crankshaft position sensor. Happened again about a year after that. They replaced the cam position sensor that time, but was told it was somehow related to an oil sensor.
Since I've been dealing with this for some time, I've come up with some theories and observations. I'm not 100% positive but two things seem to have triggered the problem. The first is it seems to happen right after getting an oil change. I've always taken it to the dealership where I bought it, for the oil changes, so Chrysler techs doing the work. (free oil changes 1st year, major discount after that at dealership) The other thing that seemed to trigger the problem was when I changed grade of gas. Being an R/T auto, it isn't supposed to require premium unleaded like the R/T manuals or SRT's. When money was tight I ran it on regular unleaded which according to Dodge is what it was designed to run on. When money wasn't a problem, and I was looking for a little extra performance (based on butt dyno), I'd fill up with the middle octane gas, which is usually the norm. The bogging (MDS) problem seemed to follow a change in octane of the gas I was using. This last time I took it to the dealership, but had to wait a few days for the part to come in. By the time it was due back at the dealership to correct the problem, it wasn't doing it anymore. I did pour in a can or two of gas treatment, and haven't experienced the problem since. Exception being one tankful of regular unleaded since, and it seemed like I experienced the (MDS/bogging) problem one evening on the highway. Went back to the higher octane the next fill-up, and seemed to have gone away.
Conclusion: 1) Delicate sensors/electronics that don't like rough handling during an oil change. 2) Pick a grade of gasoline and stick with it. Engine management doesn't like changes.
Interesting. I've related before that my MDS was feeling gnarly before I traded in my Charger R/T - I'd feel more lag and vibration from it. It would also seem to come on all the time. I thought it was mileage (nearing 90K) and possibly a timing chain failure on the horizon, but I did the same thing as you and filled up with some 87 a few times when gas was pushing $4.50 and more. I have no idea how this could have an effect besides a little less HP, which I didn't care about on my long commute, but the coincidence got my attention. The car never bogged down, however.
Bogging down may not be the best way of describing it. Basically it was stuck in MDS 4 cylinder mode. Like when I romped on it and there was a severe lack of power. Other times, I'd have the cruise control on and it would pop in and out of MDS. Not unlike it was hunting for a gear, but that was not the case.
I never experience the bogging issue, because I never give it a reason too.. If I'm feeling C****y, I will get on it from a stand still or if I'm driving... say, 40mph and it is on MDS mode I look at my dash give it just a little bit of gas; so as to get the MDS light to turn off and then punch it... No bogging issue! I don't go from being on 4 cylinders to wanting the car to rip ass into 8 cylinders and expect the computer to keep up with my input.. and that is why, I have been driving in auto-stick or paddle shift mode since a week after I got my R/T.
Good luck with your fix!
__________________
Last edited by Cdr.Instigator; 02-01-2013 at 07:07 AM.
Bogging down may not be the best way of describing it. Basically it was stuck in MDS 4 cylinder mode. Like when I romped on it and there was a severe lack of power.
I hear you; it's like a resistance to switch modes, like a sticky gear.
I didnt buy a muscle car to try and save fuel (MDS or 6 cylinders)
There are soooo many practical, and generally better cars out there for commuting and daily driving.My regret is falling in love with an R/T and getting a decent deal and then realizing I could have got a cheap used SRT
I thought you could tune the '12s now?
I simply disabled my MDS,firmed up the shift points and increased the throttle responce by 20% and I don't recall a bog
I read you didn't want to spend $$$ on a tuner,
Do you really want something else?
Like what ?
Will you be happy?
Tune it and have some fun
I want to permanently shut off the MDS...How do I do this?
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