5-20 dino grade is recommended by the factory, but synthetic will be OK, if it's 5-20W
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2010 RT "Classic" Automatic
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So, the manuals don't have MDS, so what is different about the way the timing chain runs against the guides in MDS vs NON MDS? Is there any non axial movemnt (side to side) involved when it goes in and out of MDS? You figure the manuals would be having this problem as well... but they aren't, at least not in moderate mileage cars.
So, I just want to figure out what is different parts wise and the way autos are different than the manuals. I figure that the manuals have the same solenoid, correct?
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So, the manuals don't have MDS, so what is different about the way the timing chain runs against the guides in MDS vs NON MDS? Is there any non axial movemnt (side to side) involved when it goes in and out of MDS? You figure the manuals would be having this problem as well... but they aren't, at least not in moderate mileage cars.
So, I just want to figure out what is different parts wise and the way autos are different than the manuals. I figure that the manuals have the same solenoid, correct?
People belive there is a harmonic imbalance when mds engages. You have to think even the slightest minor abnormality can cause unnecessary wear that can lead to premature part failures.
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People belive there is a harmonic imbalance when mds engages. You have to think even the slightest minor abnormality can cause unnecessary wear that can lead to premature part failures.
Sent from my HTC Rezound with the AutoGuide App.
It is my theory that when the mds is active, slack develops at times in the chain then it whips against the chain guide. I suspect that with the balanced nature of v8 cams, in v8 mode, pressure is even and the whipping does not occur.
It is my theory that when the mds is active, slack develops at times in the chain then it whips against the chain guide. I suspect that with the balanced nature of v8 cams, in v8 mode, pressure is even and the whipping does not occur.
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