This seems like it will definitely be doable, but I only went so far into it. I plan to keep this socked away in the closet in case I sell the car and want to yank all my audio stuff out, so I have to keep it good.
Once you've got the head unit in hand, the faceplate comes off easiest. This is very good. You don't have to worry about messing up the CD player's alignment or anything else goofy.
Here's some pics:
Getting the faceplate off was a snap (literally). I did it with my hands. Grab the unit with the face down. Look around the inside edges of the faceplate's back and you'll see 3 little tabs per side. Just pull outward on the black plastic tabs until they unseat. Work around all of those and the faceplate will pull right off. Damn these Challengers were put together well. Everything I've done on them seems like it was well thought out for fixes down the road.
So in that last picture you can see there are about 8 hex head screws holding that circuit board to the plastic faceplate. I didn't undo those, but it should expose the AUX jack and then you can see what the problem is. It could be that the 5 little solder points on the back of the board (the side you CAN see in that last picture) broke. If that's the case, grab a small soldering iron at Radio Shack, some thin strand solder, and reattach them. I'd be surprised if it cost more than $20. If it's on the other side of the circuit board, be careful as you pull it free. There could be electrical connections that need to be unplugged. I'd recommend taking pictures of everything as you go so you can remember how to put it back together later.
2011 Toxic Orange R/T Classic Auto
Performance Mods: Diablo inTune I1000-DCX
Audio Mods: Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS, HelixDSP, Zed Audio Leviathan III, Dynaudio Esotec 362 (active), Zed Audio Minotaur II, 2x JL Audio 12w6v2s (sealed ~2.8 cu ft)
Wow thanks for all the pics ceri. I'm going to try it today but I had one question, did you unhook the battery line in the back before you began?
I probably did. I always recommend unhooking the battery before messing with electrical. In this particular case it's probably not necessary, but it's still a good idea. In fact unhook the battery and then give it 10-15 minutes just so everything has a chance to discharge itself.
When you get done and hook it all back up, check to see if your windows do their little auto open auto close thing when you open the door. If not, you might have to reprogram the doors. That's not too difficult, but if they aren't auto opening/auto closing you'll want to fix that before you go driving around like that. Closing the door with the window in the full up position will wear out the door seal. I can find a link for you if you need it.
Sorry about the late reply, I have been busy with school and haven't had time to deal with this yet, but:
A guy I work with said he used to work at a dodge dealership, or a dodge "stealership" as he affectionately called it. He said people would come in all the time with this problem and that the head unit really was not a quality make. He also said that while it might be possible to open it up and push the pins back in place or solder them, the problem would probably come back in a matter of weeks. He recommended that I just buy a manufactured one off ebay, as dealerships will sell them to you for about $600.
I haven't had time to deal with anything like this yet but when I do I'll be able to use your pictures to guide me if I replace the unit or try and fix it, so thanks for that. I haven't decided on my next course though.
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