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Car Won't Start, Even From a Jump

45K views 14 replies 11 participants last post by  A Guy 
#1 ·
I've searched and have yet to see this exact problem so I figured I'd post. Yesterday I went to leave for class as usual and noticed my car wouldn't remote start. I got in and nothing worked besides the doors unlocking with the key FOB. I get a clunk sound when I try to start the car. The overhead lights do come on, and the gauges will display words while the key is in and not in run. As soon as I put it in run or try to start the car, I get the clunk and occasionally the gauge cluster will light up and flicker but won't stay on. The battery is still putting out 12.3 V but it is the 5 year old battery that came on the car. I am hoping this is just a battery issue but I am really not sure since even an attempt to jump the car didn't do a thing. Does anyone have an idea what this may be? The car was last driven probably 10 hours before this so it didn't sit very long, and showed no signs of this at any point before now.
 
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#2 ·
A shorted cell in the battery can cause that. It may show normal voltage but drop to a level too low to crank the car when loaded. Also, I had a similar problem on my Indian motorcycle. The battery in the Fob was bad. It didn't clunk the starter but it would click a relay and then the instrument lights would flash and nothing else would work.
 
#3 ·
So, this could be both the car battery and the key FOB battery? I did get a message about the key FOB the other day but even trying the second key today didn't help the car.
 
#4 ·
I don't know about the Fob, it was only a guess based on a totally unrelated vehicle. Step one you did and that was try your other Fob. If the battery loads tests okay it's probably going to be a trip to the shop. But as an experienced mechanic I can tell you 5 years on a battery is a long time. Average life is about 38 to 42 months even on the best batteries. Some will last longer, I have seen them 7 or 8 years old still functioning but that is very rare. It's probably your battery but it needs to be load-tested to verify that.
 
#6 ·
CPS would result in a crank but no-start condition, WIN would result in not recognizing the key/fob or running for ~5 seconds and shutting off due to the anti-theft not working right. A faulty CPS or WIN module wouldn't result in flickering lights and a clunk when trying to start, that is a voltage/amperage problem.

I actually just went through this with the 7-year-old battery in the Jeep, a few days ago I noticed it was cranking slower than usual. Had the battery load tested and it passed but said it needed to be charged (It had been driven for 30+ minutes and I make sure the alt was working before I left). It was only a matter of time, 2 days ago I went out to check the voltage when cranking. Battery read 11.9v-12.1v just sitting there not running, went to start it and...wouldn't start. Relay clattered and the voltage dropped to 6-7 volts, let the key go and it went back to around 11.5v. The battery just didn't have the amp capacity anymore, likely due to sulfation as a result of age/use. The cells still function and hold ~2.1v each but they don't have enough amps to start the engine.

I'd be willing to bet a new battery will solve the OP's problem. OEM batteries tend to last about 5 years these days.
 
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#9 ·
UPDATE: I replaced the battery and all is well. I'll have to re-setup all settings in my head unit but it all works just like before. The old battery was just dead. To the point of not even taking a charge. It couldn't even pass a load test. Thank you all for the responses
 
#10 ·
Well after 96,034 miles on my 2013 R/T Challenger my battery died at my local Target. It cranked for 2 seconds and then nothing. Lights would dim and then go out with a very light click as though the starter wanted to turn over. I tried jumping it with another car and would not charge at all, even after 15 minutes of trying. It would do absolutely nothing just barely move the starter by 1 tooth. Took the battery to O'Reilly and it was bad. Probably 1 cell burnt up and would not charge. $170.00 with the recycled core.
 
#12 ·
Still running the original battery in my ‘03 Dakota. I thought I detected a slightly different “tone” when starting, so I swung by Autozone a few months back for a check. Guy said he’d be glad to sell me a new one, but said it checks out fine and I don’t need to replace it. I carry cables with me all the time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
The Problem is most likely/definitely the ignition relay located in the forward fuse box.. it's the second slot down from the right.. easy fix that takes seconds.. to know for sure, simply switch it with the one below it and try to start the car.. if it starts then you can drive a couple miles to a auto parts store to replace it because you will be running without your second radiator fan.. Good Luck and You're Welcome.. 😏
 
#15 ·
Welcome to Challengertalk ;) Hopefully your answer will help someone searching in the future ;)

A Guy
 
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