JL Audio install 2013 Challenger Rally Redline - Page 4 - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
Audio, Video and other Car Electronics Anything that pertains to the interior electronics modifications such as stereos, A/V, lighting...not exclusive to the Challenger please feel free to share

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#31 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:47 AM
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Ok finished it up just before the Sarasota show here it is:

I revinaled the face of the box


and I carpeted the panels and covered the box


Plexi is in




The plexiglass has neons that illuminate the amps, ill get pics of them lit up at night
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#32 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 10:33 AM
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Sweet!! Looks great. Where did you put your led's for the backlight?
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#33 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 01:21 PM
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That does look very polished. A couple of questions.

What's going on at the bottom of the box looking from inside the cabin? It sort of looks like there's a curve to the vinyl where it meets the rest of the car.

From the back, is that top line crooked, or are my eyes playing tricks?

Same goes for the amps. It seems like they're a little askew. Is that just an illusion?

I'm asking because I'm wondering if these are design problems with the car, difficult parts to get right, or just my eyes.

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#34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ceri View Post
That does look very polished. A couple of questions.

What's going on at the bottom of the box looking from inside the cabin? It sort of looks like there's a curve to the vinyl where it meets the rest of the car.

From the back, is that top line crooked, or are my eyes playing tricks?

Same goes for the amps. It seems like they're a little askew. Is that just an illusion?

I'm asking because I'm wondering if these are design problems with the car, difficult parts to get right, or just my eyes.
Ceri good to see someone can call out mistakes... yeah there are some minor issues. Ill answer in the order you asked
1.What's going on at the bottom of the box looking from inside the cabin? It sort of looks like there's a curve to the vinyl where it meets the rest of the car. Answer - I left some extra vinal on the face of the box because the box sits just above the floor, rather than having a gap between the bottom of the box and the floor i left some vinal to cover the space and cover up the exposed metal on the floor since I took out the trunk interrior.

2. From the back, is that top line crooked, or are my eyes playing tricks? Answer - Yes this is correct, the trunk itself is not formed in a straight line, if you look at the top most part of the trunk it is slightly curved and as a result my straight lines didnt quite match the curve leaving a slight up-tick in the middle of the pannels.

3.Same goes for the amps. It seems like they're a little askew. Is that just an illusion? Answer - also correct. The trunk slopes down and the direct center of the wheel well does not allow for the amps to be in the direct center of the area. Instead I had to try to guess where the middle was and do measurements from there, producing some human error, in real life it is much harder to see. Pictures make you notice it more, I might eventually go back and fix it
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#35 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 10:25 AM
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Since your open to it... why not flush mount the subs and round over the edges to the port?



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#36 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 11:07 AM
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Since your open to it... why not flush mount the subs and round over the edges to the port?
The original box I started was a flush mounted box, but I redid the box and left them on the surface, im planning on blowing up the v2s so that I can get the v3s in there asap, I originally requested the v3s and they sent me the v2s, 6 days later they stated shipping v3 orders which did not include mine since they filled it with v2s. round over on the port makes carpeting a bit$h and doesn't improve audio output so that isn't as high up on priorities.
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#37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 12:00 PM
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Nice job on the install nwdsk8er. That box is effing huge man. To second what the727kid said, why not make a beauty panel to go around the subs with larger holes cut for the subs and a slot for the port. This will give you the flush mount look. You can even cut the port slot smaller on the beauty panel and use a flush trim bit on a router to make sure they match up correctly. Then either round off or chamfer the port slot on the beauty panel. Aesthetically it would look better especially if you are putting it in a show. Another thing to consider would be to carpet your two rear panels as one and that would help to hide any imperfections that you have back there.

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#38 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 12:33 PM
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Sorry! Didn't mean to open a can of worms defending your box. It looks way better than mine. I know the contours in the trunk make things difficult. In some pictures the amps look just about perfect. In others it's obvious, but like you said, in real life all you see is the customization and how clean it looks. I saw someone else with a good idea on that, which was to fill it with expanding foam to create a level shelf. Just cut some MDF roughly to size then spray the foam beneath it and set the MDF on it. The foam will fill in the negative space giving you a nice stable place to put your amps. You can also set the height however high you want based on the size of the MDF circle.

If you wanted to do anything about the back panel, you could probably take a sheet of thin ply and make a beauty panel for it that will hide the top. Then you can do some cool stuff like a big "CHALLENGER" across it or some other graphic in raised lettering. Or even easier than that is to just cut out some letters from MDF, paint them, and stick them on to what you've got. It's a big empty space just begging for a little creativity.
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#39 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 12:56 PM
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I was doing a plexi window on the rear of the box so that you can see the motors on the subs but the plexi (3/4" thick) snapped when I screwed it into the box, thats why I had to rebuild the origional box I built because I didnt want to spend another $120 for 2 plexi windows, I might still redo the back so that it looks nicer
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#40 (permalink) Old 01-23-2013, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nwdsk8er View Post
I was doing a plexi window on the rear of the box so that you can see the motors on the subs but the plexi (3/4" thick) snapped when I screwed it into the box, thats why I had to rebuild the origional box I built because I didnt want to spend another $120 for 2 plexi windows, I might still redo the back so that it looks nicer
I have a couple questions for you regarding the plexi glass for the sub enclosure. How were you attaching it to the box? The reason I ask is because I plan to do the same and want your opinion on how to do it. My plan was to drill holes big enough into the plexi so that some 10-32 machine screws could go through then use some threaded inserts like these GRAINGER APPROVED VENDOR Threaded Insert, Pk 50 - Hex Drive Thread Inserts - 4ZU77|4ZU77 - Grainger Industrial Supply in the mdf to secure the plexi. Next question is where did you get you plexi glass? I was looking at ordering from tap plastics got the link from SuBXeRo but 2 for $120 sounds like a good deal.
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