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Hellcat Brakes on Scat Pack

57K views 120 replies 38 participants last post by  aggie97 
#1 · (Edited)
Hellcat Brakes on Scat Pack *DONE*

Anyone done this yet? I have the front/rear calipers (and hardware), front pads and front rotors ordered and just wanted to know if it's as straightforward as it looks.



 
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#5 ·
I printed out the entire brake system parts list by VIN for my car and a '15 Hellcat, put them side by side and made comparisons. Based on that, I came up with front and rear calipers, front pad clips, front rotors and front pads that did not share common part numbers. Note that this is all by memory - the list is at work and I might be mis-stating something I don't recall at the moment...but I don't think so. At any rate, if I did I will edit the post on Monday.

The rear rotor and pads, all brake hoses, all banjo bolts, ABS module, master cylinder, booster, etc, etc, all do share the same part numbers between VINs. The only real difference between the rear calipers is color, but I wasn't going to have red fronts and black rears so I ordered them up.

I don't have very many miles on the car so I'm re-using the rear rotors and pads. That said, I am installing new copper washers at each hose end, new clips and pins on the rear (even though they are the same as stock) and new mounting bolts all around. I'm sure the existing ones would be fine but I just don't want any issues.

It should be a piece of cake but I could have missed something. I'm also wondering about the WRT wheels clearing. I measured both cars and I'm pretty sure they'll be fine....but we'll see.
 
#8 ·
I don't really want to get into all of that because I didn't buy from a site sponsor and I don't want to step on any toes.


I'll be more than happy to supply a part number list when I'm all done if y'all want. I doubt you'll be able to beat the guys selling Mopar parts on this site, though. They have a pretty good discount from what I can tell.
 
#17 ·
I tend to push my stuff really hard. The last two cars that I had added power to, the brakes were always a weak point. They got the job done initially, but when you started beating on them for several corners in a row they'd give up pretty quick. I decided that I'm going to get that squared away first on this car before I start turning up the wick. At over 4,200 lbs I can't imagine life will be easy on even these Hellcat units. I should probably pick lighter cars but no one said I was smart...lol.

To answer more directly, I don't track my junk but I do enjoy spirited runs out on country roads in rural Texas. :) The "Three Sisters" (ranch roads 335, 336 and 337) are a good example.
 
#12 ·
Hey OP, I too am interested in knowing the cost... At least a ballpark figure? I'm interested in doing this for my SPS as well. I'm not planning on tracking it by any means, more so just for the looks.
 
#13 ·
The dealer here(take it for what it's worth) said it was a BIG change!

More than just rotors and pads...

I too am interested.
 
#16 ·
#20 ·
I don't really see the need to upgrade brakes on the 392 cars... am I the only one who feels this way? Unless you're consistently tracking it on a road course then what's the point? Spending over 2k to have a hellcat brake upgrade which is more or less overkill for the street. Idk, that money could go towards things more worth while but it's your money. Just giving constructive criticism.
 
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#21 ·
I don't really see the need to upgrade brakes on the 392 cars... am I the only one who feels this way? Unless you're consistently tracking it on a road course then what's the point? Spending over 2k to have a hellcat brake upgrade which is more or less overkill for the street. Idk, that money could go towards things more worth while but it's your money. Just giving constructive criticism.

I feel the same but as you said it's his money. I have no issues with the 4 piston brembos on the street and on the track. One suggestion, if you're going to upgrade them, you might as well do the stainless brake lines and upgrade to DOT 4 brake fluid.


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#23 ·
If you track your SP on a road course you would feel the need for bigger brakes. I road course my SP 7 times this year and went through 2 sets of pads and boiled the fluid once. Driving 130mph on a front straight and then jamming on the brakes to slow 4200lbs to 50mph before a hard left kills the 4 piston Brembos. Having a extra 2 pistons on each side will definitely help. I definitely plan to swap out to Hellcat six pots. ;)
 
#27 ·
Those calipers sure look nice. If I was to upgrade, I'd go with those. Before you slap pads in them, can you measure the diameter of the piston face and compare it to the 4 piston Brembos. I'm just curious to know what the total piston face area is between the 4 and 6 piston calipers.
 
#32 ·
Here's an excellent setup for the Challenger:

Brembo® - Dodge Challenger 2015 GT-R Series Cross Drilled 2-Piece Rotor Brake Kit

Rotational Mass makes quite a difference with all around performance. I installed a similar set on my last ZO6 and the overall difference around the track was pretty incredible. The improvement also carried over to the street; the car took the rough patches and potholes a lot better (the front OEM rotors felt like boat anchors compared to the new setup).

Here's some interesting data:

Reducing unsprung weight is one of the most critical factors affecting a vehicle's road (and off road) holding ability. Unsprung weight is that portion of a vehicle that is not supported by the suspension (i.e. wheels, tires and brakes) and therefore most susceptible to road shock and cornering forces. By reducing unsprung weight, lighter wheels and tires and brakes can provide more precise steering input and improved "turning in" characteristics.


Rotating mass must be accelerated/decelerated every time the speed changes, and it's harder to accelerate the rotating mass. Since most rotating mass (aside from the engine and the tranny) is unsprung weight (half-shafts, wheels, brake rotors), a reduction in unsprung weight generally entails a reduction in rotating mass, which helps acceleration. It is rotating mass that is roughly 3 times harder to accelerate than normal weight. Plain old unsprung weight is not any harder to accelerate. Basically, rotating mass must be accelerated twice every time the car speeds up, it must be accelerated linearly (in the direction of the vehicle's travel) and rotationally (in the direction of its spin).

As for a reduction in unsprung weight independant from rotating mass, this generally improves the suspension's ability to work properly. Unsprung weight contributes to inertia in the suspension, which in turn affects the geometry assumed by the suspension.


Unsprung mass has the same effect as sprung mass when it comes to acceleration as long as it is not a rotating part in the driveline.

If it is a rotating part (Such as a tire/rim combo),It will take more hp to accelerate a heavy rotating mass to a specific velocity than a lighter rotating mass. The same holds true for deceleration.


In racing we try to minimize unsprung weight because it hurts handling. When the weight isn't supported by the springs, the shocks and tires control that weight. On bumpier tracks, a large amount of unsprung weight can become difficult to control, and reduce tire contact to the racing surface, which will reduce grip. Also, since the tires are controlling the unsprung weight it can, in certain situations, cause heat build up, affecting tire performance. Also, really light race cars (mine is 2500 pounds, so it's considered light), are very sensitive to unsprung weight, so we attempt to minimize it whenever possible.


Turn a bike upside down, take the back tire/tube off & put the bare rim back on.
Turn the pedals.
Now put the tire & tube back on, & do the same thing.
See how much harder it was to turn the pedals?


Also the unsprung weight (tires, suspension) is supposed to react fast to the bumps in the road (or off road). The lighter these parts are the less force is required to move them and the faster they can react to the bumps resulting in a safer and smoother ride. Additionally you need to consider the rotational energy. The heavier they are, the harder it is to change the axis of rotation (angle, up/down).
 
#35 ·
#33 ·
For those of you who doubt theres a noticible difference, there is. This '15 SRT stops likes nobody's business. It was the first thing i noticed after first driving it - even over the engine's strong power too. Hard to believe these are stock brakes. I'm pretty sure the people who comment asking why bother haven't driven with them. Once you have, you become addicted to these.
 
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#40 · (Edited)
OK, I have all of the parts assembled and they will be installed in the next couple of days. Here is my parts list with the required quantity of each part number for the conversion.

Front Brakes

68248388AA Caliper, Front RH - QTY 1
68248389AA Caliper, Front LH - QTY 1
68184587AB Rotor, Front - QTY 2
68203108AA Retainer, Front Pad - QTY 2
68203105AA Pin Set, Front Pad - QTY 2
68248384AB Pad Kit, Front - QTY 1

I asked a couple of our service techs if they would recommend reusing the caliper-to-knuckle bolts and brake line banjo bolt copper washers and they both basically said "you can...but I would replace them for peace of mind if possible". Those part numbers and quantities are...

6502114 Washer, Banjo Fitting - QTY 4
6510853AA Bolt, Caliper Mounting - QTY 4



Rear Brakes

On the rear of the car, the only difference is the color of the calipers. If you decide to change them out to match, here are the part numbers for the red units.

5175108AA Caliper, Rear RH - QTY 1
5175109AA Caliper, Rear LH - QTY 1

If you feel like replacing the clips, pins, pads, rotors, copper washers and mounting bolts while you are there, these are the part numbers for those items.

5174332AA Pin Set, Rear Pad - QTY 1
5174333AA Retainer, Rear Pad - QTY 2
6102016 Bolt, Caliper Mounting - QTY 4
5290538AC Rotor, Rear - QTY 2
68144223AA Pad Kit, Rear - QTY 1
6502114 Washer, Banjo Fitting - QTY 4



After installation, I'll verify that there's nothing extra required that I haven't listed other than brake fluid. I'll know about wheel clearance with the WRTs, too.
 
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