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Hey you guys, I'm new and wanted your guy's opinion.

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r/t upgrade
6K views 24 replies 16 participants last post by  19johned53 
#1 ·
So I have a 2014 R/T man, I want to put lowering spring on it but dos that affect the turning radius of the car. I know it sounds stupid but I'm actually not sure about it. Also I have the american thunder catback, the skipshift eliminator, and I am just about to order a cold air, functioning scoops, catch can, front/back sways, and a performance throttle body. What else should I look at doing? :notallthere:
 
#2 ·
The springs should clear as long as you stay within the radius of aftermarket springs specifically for the challenger (ex. Mopar springs). If you want it lowered to point of camber then extensive modifications will need to be made. The lower you go, the more expensive it gets. You should also look into getting a tuner. It makes a difference especially when you've installed cai and a throttle body.

If you want to go even further, wider tires, splitter, brembo brake kit, etc, the list goes on.
 
#3 ·
When you say "lower" your car, what are looking for, looks or performance?

If you are going for improved handling (and you didn't get STP) your best bet is MoPar Stage-1 springs... no contest. They'll drop your ride by about 1 1/2 inches and completely transform handling, especially if you go with Bilsteins on all four corners. Not only do you get a new car out of the deal but the front air dam will still clear parking curbs.

Contact Luke at Steve White Motors for a great deal and excellent service.

If you want to go lower, I got nothing.
 
#5 ·
Another vote for Mopar Stage Ones, I got mine from Luke at Steve White, great price and fast shipping

The stance on Stage Ones is just right, the ride and handling is very good

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Blue Motor vehicle
 
#7 ·
Awesome thanks!

Ya I was figuring that stage one would be the best, and I mainly want performance looks I'm okay with it as well :grin2:

As far as other performance upgrades I'm looking to do things that don't require a tuner, I'm looking to tune and do that after the warranty when I put in a super!
 
#9 · (Edited)
A lot of people will tell you if you're not going for a tune, then a larger TB is pretty much roughly a $400 paperweight. Money better spent elsewhere especially if you're doing a supercharger after warranty. The rest of you list looks good. In fact, while I could be missing something, I can't think of a single actual performance mod you could do that wouldn't need a tune. From what I've read here and elsewhere, the other stuff including a TB with no tune can possibly either leave you rich or lean causing knock, eventually causing ka-boom! It's a little early but when your clutch goes out you can upgrade that for performance. It's the only other thing I can think of.
 
#11 ·
So I have a 2014 R/T man, I want to put lowering spring on it but dos that affect the turning radius of the car. I know it sounds stupid but I'm actually not sure about it. Also I have the american thunder catback, the skipshift eliminator, and I am just about to order a cold air, functioning scoops, catch can, front/back sways, and a performance throttle body. What else should I look at doing? :notallthere:
Tune, long tube headers, 392 intake manifold (make sure the throttle body will mate with that one). Also, Barton short throw shifter if you have a manual car. After that, you should be pretty good. Maybe a cam, but that all depends on if you want to bust into the motor.
 
#12 ·
I assumed because you said you ordered the skip shift eliminator you do have the 6-speed. I don't know why when you said performance upgrades I seemed to only think engine. Maybe because of the tuner thing... Anyhow, I upgraded to the Hurst short throw and it was a big improvement. I had to have the old style pistol grip handle so this was my only option (one I am very satisfied with after some minor mods) But if a ball style knob is cool, then the best all out performance shifter on the market is the Barton. Do a search and you will find almost unanimous opinion to that fact. Glad Hell Ride mentioned it because it is a critical needed improvement for the trans in any kind of race application, track or strip.
 
#13 ·
Indeed, I haven't gotten mine yet. Shame too because it needs it. Also going to go through the trans and brake system and change the fluids to better ones at the same time since our factory trans and brake fluids are C-R-A-P
 
#14 · (Edited)
Get a tuner. Diablo Intune or trinity depending on what you're looking for. Very easy to use and you can reload your factory tune anytime you head back to the dealership to avoid hurting your warranty. Best $375-$450 (depending on vendor) you can spend. A great Challenger Talk supported vendor is Maryland Speed. Best prices I found when shopping for my CAI & InTune.

BTW, there would be an awful lot of Challenger Talk members with voided warranties because of tunes if it wasn't safe to reload your factory tune at any time... Then you can send back that skip shift eliminator as the tune fixes that as well.
 
#16 ·
Ronf745
If you want performance with warranty, get with Steve White motors for the Scat pack option or dealer installed supercharger that will not void the current factory warranty
Supercharger will void your warranty.
 
#18 ·
Magnusson, Edelbrock and most blower manufacturers offer warranties for your power train. I believe the Maggie warranty is about $1K.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#21 ·
In addition I would suggest a front strut tower brace. I feel that the front structure needs this to prevent lateral flexing. Other than that I think you have it pretty much covered unless you are willing to delve into non bolt-on performance.

I too have been curious about the MOPAR Stage 1 kit. It is perfect! Our question would be at this point (since we have basically the same mods), "How much do the springs affect camber?"

Right now I have a base R/T with (see mods in signature) and have balls enough to overcome those mods..........i.e. Hang the ass way out there.

Realizing that a lower center of gravity should relate to higher levels of gravitational adhesion (besides looking marginally better), how much more would be gained by lowering my Challenger by 1 1/2 inches assuming my base R/T remains at factory ride height at present? Which would be the 2nd question I guess here. :shrug03:

Would Mr. Luke like to chime in at this point?

(By the way, I like the price point on those springs.)
 
#23 ·
That is exactly what I needed to hear. Thank you!
 
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#24 · (Edited)
So, how does it handle?



hahahahahaa! :grin2:



It looks damned fine by the way!
 
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#25 · (Edited)
Thanks :)


IMO, the front and rear strut bracing, along with the Stage One's is where the car "should be" for ride, handling, and looks.


They just improve on the factory stock set up, as the body is now stiffer, and the car has a little lower center of gravity.


Any other additions to the suspension can help with even better handling, but may effect the ride quality.


I'm not a "boy racer", so my goal was made with the springs and bracing, and I would do it again in a heartbeat!


Totally pleased.
 
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