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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by STINGRAY View Post
So with the R/T model you do get a choice of 20" wheels or 18" wheels? The smaller wheels are better to handle the beat up roads so it doesn't rattle your filings our put your back out of alighment?
Don't come to California we have the worst roads with potholes that will bend those wheels and debris on the freeways from ladders, couches, building materials, chairs, furniture, refrigerators, bath tubs etc. Now those items can do alot of damage.
I have low profile 20's on mine, with anti sway bars, and its not like what you are describing.

Truth is once you get a decent suspension under it, those smaller rims with the tall side walls give so much you cannot believe it. I thought it felt like I was going to pop the tires off the rim cornering.
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2012, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Challenger370 View Post
I have low profile 20's on mine, with anti sway bars, and its not like what you are describing.

Truth is once you get a decent suspension under it, those smaller rims with the tall side walls give so much you cannot believe it. I thought it felt like I was going to pop the tires off the rim cornering.
What about the factory suspension? I like to keep my cars factory stock.
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2012, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by USRWDV8 View Post
Ventura County is rich, well maintained, and lightly trafficked compared to LA. A huge pothole by the curb almost swallowed my entire wheel on Hollywood Blvd once. Thank God it was my Gran Fury with its 205/75 R 15 wheels and steel rims (that car was a tank)! Just last night I went over a large pavement patch in Studio City that made a sound in the car like a shotgun had gone off. And in San Francisco I once saw a steel plate that traffic had displaced, uncovering a large cavity in the pavement.
AAA estimates that messed up California roads cost motorists an average of $500/year in repairs... I hear that DC and Detroit are worse. Fat tires for me.
Exactly-if you had a bigger Rim it would just glide over that pothole and not get swallowed by it You are correct, VC doesn't have that much traffic
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2012, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by STINGRAY View Post
What about the factory suspension? I like to keep my cars factory stock.
Factory suspension is good enough-the 2012+ SRT dampening suspension could cost quite a bit when it goes south,(the Z51 package for a Corvette is $600 per shock) so keep that in mind if you go SRT. It will give you a better feel of the road and lowers the car half an inch for better center gravity.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2012, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by b52martin View Post
Factory suspension is good enough-the 2012+ SRT dampening suspension could cost quite a bit when it goes south,(the Z51 package for a Corvette is $600 per shock) so keep that in mind if you go SRT. It will give you a better feel of the road and lowers the car half an inch for better center gravity.
That's very similiar to the F-55 Magnetic Ride option on the Corvette. $600 per shock. But there is something available that can over ride the system so you won't be stuck at 80 MPH and can switch to whatever kind of shocks you want. I didn't know that the SRT had a magnetic ride or they call it something different dampening suspension.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by b52martin View Post
Exactly-if you had a bigger Rim it would just glide over that pothole and not get swallowed by it You are correct, VC doesn't have that much traffic
Smaller rim doesn't mean smaller wheel. 18" and 20" actually come to the same total diameter once you add the tires. The smaller rims allow you less unsprung weight and allow for more tire give. So the ride is less precise and more wallowy, but it's softer and less bouncy. Tall rims and very low-profile tires should be left for the track, but are often picked for looks and trendiness and used on bad roads where they don't belong. Tire shops love 'em.
When your car isn't known for strong front end components, you probably don't want to telegraph it every pavement shock via a mostly metallic wheel.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by USRWDV8 View Post
Smaller rim doesn't mean smaller wheel. 18" and 20" actually come to the same total diameter once you add the tires. The smaller rims allow you less unsprung weight and allow for more tire give. So the ride is less precise and more wallowy, but it's softer and less bouncy. Tall rims and very low-profile tires should be left for the track, but are often picked for looks and trendiness and used on bad roads where they don't belong. Tire shops love 'em.
When your car isn't known for strong front end components, you probably don't want to telegraph it every pavement shock via a mostly metallic wheel.
So for me the 18 inch wheels would be fine.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by STINGRAY View Post
That's very similiar to the F-55 Magnetic Ride option on the Corvette. $600 per shock. But there is something available that can over ride the system so you won't be stuck at 80 MPH and can switch to whatever kind of shocks you want. I didn't know that the SRT had a magnetic ride or they call it something different dampening suspension.
True, there is a way to "TRICK" the system with resistors and Tech II programmer. The technology is not THERE yet so thats why these shocks dont last as long......
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by STINGRAY View Post
What about the factory suspension? I like to keep my cars factory stock.
I get that, but also a Mopar strut brace is an add on, that improves handeling. True anti-sway bars are replacement parts, but you can get mopar anti-sway bars, and you can get mopar coilovers. They aren't stock, but they are built for the car by Dodge / Mopar.

Even if you just add the strut brace its a big improvement.
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Old 11-08-2012, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by USRWDV8 View Post
Smaller rim doesn't mean smaller wheel. 18" and 20" actually come to the same total diameter once you add the tires. The smaller rims allow you less unsprung weight and allow for more tire give. So the ride is less precise and more wallowy, but it's softer and less bouncy. Tall rims and very low-profile tires should be left for the track, but are often picked for looks and trendiness and used on bad roads where they don't belong. Tire shops love 'em.
When your car isn't known for strong front end components, you probably don't want to telegraph it every pavement shock via a mostly metallic wheel.
True, that's why I got a set of srt-8 forged rims, so they are light and strong, and pulls from ebay is reasonably priced. I also went with 275/30ZR20 so its not super low profile. Some would prefere 275/40ZR20 and that's ok. Thing is even on the street the stock sidewalls are so big they are so sloppy any moderate suspension mod makes the tires the weakest link. Now with 275/30ZR20 using NITTO INVO's its firm enough to have the cornering performance I like, but not rough riding.
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