392 IAT (long) sensor virtually cured my heat soak issue - Page 3 - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
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#21 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by elders10rt View Post
I ordered mine today. you mentioned an extension for the wires where do get one of these extensions? what is required to i.e. drilling etc to mount in the Air box? how does one Fill in the hole left in the intake?
MikeyChallenger, the 20 lbs/ft thread modified his stock airbox with the extended wire setup during his testing. You should shoot him a PM on the questions you have above but you will drill a new hole in your airbox and you will plug the old hole.


I posted this on another thread but here's the raw data and analysis behind doing this $4 modification. It's probably the best $4 you'll spend to improve the driveability of your Challenger. For those needing a black to grey plug converter cable, I am making those for $21 + $7 shipping so just shoot a PM for details. Now if you have a grey connector and want to extend it, you'll half to stick with cutting and extending it for now as the parts aren't available to make them right now.



The purpose of this test is to determine which air temperature sensor reads more accurately to the actual air entering the engine.

Ambient Air Temperature: 94 degs
Intake Tube Temperature: 155 degs (radiator fans off), 175 degs (radiator fans on)

So analyzing the graph. At the start of the WOT run, while cruising prior to, there is an IAT delta of 7.2 degs between sensors. At the end of the WOT run, there is an IAT delta of 15 degrees between sensors. This delta results in more engine knock with the old sensor. At the end of the WOT run, with a 0 % acceleration, the old IAT sensor reading is continuing to ladder down while the new IAT sensor is at a level temperature. This is a key indicator on sensor reading accuracy and whether or not the sensor is reading the air temperature flowing through the tube or is inflated by the intake tube materials surrounding the sensor.

So here's a situation where the new sensor is reading a lower temperature than the old. The old sensor causes PCM to think that the air charge is not as dense than it actually is, so it trims fuel when in reality the air going through is more dense. The result of improper fuel matched with density of air causes detonation resulting in knock. This knock results in spark trim thus reducing power (more commonly known as torque).



In another situation, here is regular acceleration in city driving. There is a IAT delta of 5.4 degrees. The delta results in more engine knock with the old sensor again. So here's a situation where the new sensor is reading a higher temperature than the old. The old sensor causes PCM to think that the air charge is more dense than it actually is, so it adds fuel when in reality the air going through is less dense. The result of improper fuel matched with density of air causes detonation resulting in knock. This also results in the lag we feel as now we have an air/fuel mixture with too much fuel and then we get that sudden surge in the throttle. It also helps to explain why the new sensor provides that "butt dyno" smooth acceleration feeling.



Now it could be argued that you can adjust the tune, add/subtract fuel to get rid of the knock at WOT and adjust the part throttle tune for normal acceleration.

At WOT, the old sensor reads higher than actual temperatures, doesn't add enough fuel so now we increase fuel and our problem is fixed. At the 1/4mi track, this explains the "heatsoak" effect. As we do consecutive runs, our IAT sensor continues to read a higher than actual intake temperature. We start to get more engine knock with each progression. Now, we have two ways to fix it. Take an accurate temperature reading so the PCM can determine the proper fuel mix all the time, or we can continue to adjust the fuel tables ourselves for each consecutive hot lap.

At normal acceleration, we adjust the throttle to allow more air to go through to compensate for the PCM adding too much fuel during normal driving conditions. Either that or we accidentally add fuel thinking that there's not enough and in hopes to reduce knock. Another is that we trim fuel. All of that trouble when we could have just increased the accuracy of our IAT reading with a new sensor.


2015 376 cu-in SRT S/C Hellcat Torred (Tori 3.0) (ordered; BX)
2012 392 cu-in SRT8 Tungsten (IronMaiden) - 12.847 @ 109.89 mph
2010 370 cu-in SRT8 Torred (Tori 2.0)- 12.604 @ 112.11 mph (Spartan Cam) / 12.817 @ 110.05 mph
2009 345 cu-in R/T Torred (Tori 1.0) - 13.291 @ 103.67 mph

Bolt-On Mod Information

Last edited by rayzazoo; 09-28-2011 at 10:03 PM.
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#22 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 05:29 PM
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So I made another batch of black to grey converter cables at the request of a few CT members. I've got 7 available.

This is for those that have the black plug and want to run the 392 IAT sensor in a plug and play setup.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums...-cables-66104/
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#23 (permalink) Old 10-09-2011, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDaddyWiz View Post
If I had to venture a guess I would say yes. The 2011 charger intake tube that I ordered to replace my 2009 tube (that has a resonator) came with the longer temp sensor installed in it already.
Both my stock 2011 R/T intake tube and the 2011 Charger tube I bought to replace it had the linger sensor installed.
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#24 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 11:22 AM
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I made yet, another, batch of black to grey converter cables for those wanting to do this mod and sent out 6 already. I have 4 left so PM if this is something you need for a plug and play solution. Cost is $21 + $7 shipping/fees.
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#25 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 02:25 PM
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so it's safe to say that my 2011 392 probably has the long sensor in it ??
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#26 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Litos View Post
so it's safe to say that my 2011 392 probably has the long sensor in it ??
YES...the one on your car is the very part number we ordered for our cars.

Rob

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Former 2010 TorRed SRT8 6spd owner
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#27 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 07:52 PM
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I'm a little late on this topic...so bear with me. Will the longer IAT fit inside the '09 style Mopar CAI tube? If so, and I have the gray plug on the car side, it should be plug & play and not throw any codes?

Thanks for any information!!

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#28 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 07:51 PM
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I'm a little late on this topic...so bear with me. Will the longer IAT fit inside the '09 style Mopar CAI tube? If so, and I have the gray plug on the car side, it should be plug & play and not throw any codes?

Thanks for any information!!
In short yup plug and play. If you have the black plug connector, I make a converter cable that is plug and play.
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#29 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 08:27 AM
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I lucked out for a change...it's gray. I picked one up yesterday...the end of the sensor is just past the middle of the intake tube. Thanks for the information!!
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#30 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 12:44 PM
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Thank the Mopar spirits for the RT gray plug!

Also, thank you to rayzazoo for setting me straight about the plug, and not just selling me a cable after asking for one.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic6929_4.gif

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It's not that I really needed 370 hp...but having 150+ hp riding shotgun at a moment's bidding w/o a 6000 rpm moonshot is what makes me feel like I'm in the right car for me. The roar of a v8 seals the deal!

The Google keyword is "ethanol-free gas". The truth is coming to light. Check out http://pure-gas.org/
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