General Challenger DiscussionThis section contains general discussion about the Dodge Challenger. If it does not fit into a more specific area, it probably belongs in here. (Dodge Challenger General Discussion)
Good doner car to build a race car from if you can get it cheep enough. Rebuild or replace the stuff you need. Trash the stuff you dont need
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Actually you bring up a good point. I see lots of guys here doing expensive "modding" their cars in order to go drag racing and I have never understood the science of drag racing in a car with heavy leather covered electric seats, cruise control ect... Seems to me if you bought a decent flood damaged car with a functioning drivetrain you could do a massive ripout of the unnecessary stuff and have a fun track car for less than some of the mods Ive seen here.
__________________ ZardozSpeakstoYou
2012 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic 6 spd
Actually you bring up a good point. I see lots of guys here doing expensive "modding" their cars in order to go drag racing and I have never understood the science of drag racing in a car with heavy leather covered electric seats, cruise control ect... Seems to me if you bought a decent flood damaged car with a functioning drivetrain you could do a massive ripout of the unnecessary stuff and have a fun track car for less than some of the mods Ive seen here.
Are any of you guys interested in buying one of these cars (6.1 or 392 hemi's) for the body parts? I would like to know if someone wants to get in on a "partnership" to buy one. I would like to buy and engine (6.1 or 392). Of course I will have to have it taken apart to look for any issues, but might be a great way to get one of these engines at a very low price. Plus, if someone wants to go in on one with me, even a better deal! I do not have a license to buy from Copart though. PM me if anyone is interested. The car I need an engine for is near Philly, so if you are within a decent distance, that would be great!
FYI..The cars and VINs I posted are sitting in the IAA lots at Long Island and New Jersey. Talk to any parts yard dealer that has a license and you MIGHT be able to work a deal. Or you can join IAA for $200 (year membership) and buy cars sold at publc auctions such as the ones here in Georgia and surrounding states.
There is a list on there web site where auctions are open to the publc.
Coparts on the other hand forces you to go thru a broker to buy the car so it's more money because of the middle man involved. (brokers charge a fee)
I do have a license to buy from IAA and have gotten some pretty good deals on motocycles because they are easy to rebuild. I can go buy a Challenger but I have no where to put it, My HOA would flip out if a wrecked Challenger showed up sitting in my driveway and it sat there for couple months.
Snow - yes, I just found them on IAAI. I would sure love a 392 (at least 2 in Long Island) and quite a few 6.1s Man those cars look like nothing is wrong (at least on the outside), but who knows what gremlins are on the inside and in the wiring...what a shame
Saltwater can do more damage than you think. Corrosion could show up in body seams quickly, or a few years down the road. Every single electrical connector would need a thorough cleaning or replacement. I can't imagine you could get all the sewage out of every body crevice.
It would be much cheaper to just buy a used car that wasn't flooded.
Guys-a flood car is a terrible car to buy for a drivetrain that is useable as is. As high as the water got on Long Island, the water could have easily entered the intake or up through the exhaust, The electrical system is toast-count on replacing every wire harness (body/dash/engine bay/doors), module (there are a ton!), and computer. If you are wanting a shell for a racecsr then that would be ok but count in early corrosion/rust. Trust me-I've bought 11 wrecked/damaged SRT8s from these places in the last 2 years...
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Guys-a flood car is a terrible car to buy for a drivetrain that is useable as is. As high as the water got on Long Island, the water could have easily entered the intake or up through the exhaust, The electrical system is toast-count on replacing every wire harness (body/dash/engine bay/doors), module (there are a ton!), and computer. If you are wanting a shell for a racecsr then that would be ok but count in early corrosion/rust. Trust me-I've bought 11 wrecked/damaged SRT8s from these places in the last 2 years...
I totally agree ! These are NOT rebuildable cars. When we had the floods here in Atlanta a few years back I watched IAA hire a company to come in an clean the cars.
Some of the cars looked as if they were never in flood waters, They did that good of a job.
But after the car sat in the hot sun in the lot for a week or two waiting for its turn to be sold and you opened the door the moldy, mucky smell of river water was present.
Experienced buyers at the auction told me dont just walk away from buying those cars "RUN".
Now if you need fenders, hood, glass, doors, suspension componts then you might be OK. But other then that forget it!
Don't be fooled by those pictures, Those cars have been cleaned up to look good. More $$$$ in there pocket at the auction.
I purchased a "used" motor from a so called reputable parts warehouse a few years back.
Make a long story short, I found out that it was from a "flood car". How? Well, the cylinders were filled with water, and everything else.
Motor looked nice, plugs installed on all openings to keep crud out, nice shipping pallet, good price...............and the engine wouldn't turn over because is was "locked" by the water.
A total PITA, and that was just for the engine.
IMO, the only way to buy a flood engine is never do it. Within a few weeks of the flood, the internals are MAYHEM.
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2010 RT "Classic" Automatic
Options: (28M); Electronics Convenience Group; Power Sunroof; and the best $225 option in the world: Detonator Yellow Clear Coat
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