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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2009, 11:11 AM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

Originally Posted by Iron Chef View Post
I agree here. There was a filter comparison done (Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources) by an engineer which makes a great read and is a fantastic resource. Based on this, I've been using a Purolator PureONE for years. Costs a few bucks more, but nothing but the best for my R/T!
I agree. Been using PureOne filters and I like them a lot. They are not over priced and they seem to perform well for the amount of time I leave them on there.

I get them at Sears or Advance Auto Parts around here. I'm sure MOPAR is fine too. SuperTech is (or was) ok too. Fram is the only one I'd never use. Love their air filters though.

I like Motorcraft Syn Blend Oil for the price point and 5w20. I also like Mobil 1 0w40, but $$$. bobistheoilguy.com is where I made my decision.

I use plastic bag around the filter to prevent mess on my and my driveway. Poking hole is fine as long as you make sure you can loosen the filter first. Otherwise you'll be deadd in the water while you figure out how to.

Always check to make sure the oil filter gasket came off the block.

You should be able to hand tighten (assuming you don't have oil on your hands). Every time I've used a tool to tighten a filter, it was insanely tight coming off 3000 miles later.

The vette has a high flow oil pump and regularly reaches 85psi on cold startups and the hand tightened filter still doesn't leak.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2009, 12:51 AM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

Originally Posted by Blue Challenger View Post
If your oil was changed for you, you likely weren't close enough to the car to hear the dry start wear going on. When an oil change is done, all the oil is drained from the engine and the oil pump is no longer primed, which causes almost zero oil pressure upon the engine being started and the engine wearing dry start condition. Test have shown that up to 90% of engine wear occurs during dry start conditions. This is the reason against changing oil excessively often, not to mention wasting money, as well as causing a lot of environmental issues with waste oil filters, oil bottles, etc. The oil manufacturer has a vested interest in consumers changing oil as often as possible and they still try to brainwash consumers into the old 3,000 mile drain interval from the 1960's, even though an increasing number of vehicle manufacturers are now recommending 7,500 mile drain intervals and up to 12,000 mile drain intervals.
Ok let me be specific for you, I still dont know you, your first post was only 5 days ago, so I also don't trust you. You remind me of someone who has been banned, with your other posts, all of which were made in the last 5 days. But I'll entertain you. I was standing next to the drivers door of my car when the Dodge tech started the car. I wanted to take a look under the car while it was up, they allowed me in the shop. I did not hear any odd noises, or clatter or anything. The car started fine. The Dodge dealer of course primed the filter, you would have to either be very inexperienced, or just plain retarded not too. I hope that was specific enough for you to understand.

You say change the oil every 7500-12000 miles. So your saying that we should ignore the manufactures recommendation and change the oil when we feel like it? So when the car chimes and says it needs an oil change, we should ignore it? Well let me quote you something directly from page 370 of the owners manual-
NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change
intervals exceed 6,000 miles (10 000 km) or six months,
whichever occurs first.
Dont try and quote me the The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, I know it very well, I have tons of mods, I have read and re-read it. The link you keep quoting is a "summary" therefore its someone's interpretation. The real law cn be found here- Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act

How about this one section 2301 (9)(a)and (b)
(9) The term "reasonable and necessary maintenance" consists of those operations

(A) which the consumer reasonably can be expected to perform or have performed and
(B) which are necessary to keep any consumer product performing its intended function and operating at a reasonable level of performance.


You are violating the act you just quoted by not changing your oil when they say specifically say do not exceed 6000 miles.


Remember guys, this guy does not own a challenger, he saw one at his local mall. So now he is an expert.

Last edited by lupoman; 02-21-2009 at 01:05 PM.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2009, 05:40 AM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

Originally Posted by mokeman3 View Post
Also, I think the one tip about pre-filling the oil filter (as much as you can) is a good one, and I can't see any reason why this would be NOT recommended (unless it causes an air lock situation or something on initial start up).

I agree with this 100%. Regardless of how a pan is sumped, or where the oil is pulled from, it has to fill the filter and all its air pockets before it can circulate through the galleys and find its way to your bearings and other mating surfaces. Sure you say it only takes a couple seconds at 50-60 PSI, but wear can occur in that time. I want oil flowing the instant it kicks over, period. If it is a horizontal mount it wouldn't hurt to at least partial fill and then roll the filter as PP mentioned in order to saturate it a bit to make the follow-on oil flows faster. JMHO.

Thanks to the OP BTW, the instructions are VERY clear to the novice or anyone for that matter. Sometimes you just have to revisit the fundamentals...not an area for complacency.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2009, 06:06 AM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

I agree with filling the new filter with oil and it's easy with these Challenger V8's since they are vertical.

However, my other two cars have both have horizontal filters and it's not possible to put oil in without making a mess. One car has 170,000 miles and I never put oil in a new filter and have had zero problems.

Remember though, that you don't really start the engine "dry". When you change the oil, you have a film of the old oil remaining in all parts of the engine for the start up.
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Old 02-21-2009, 03:16 PM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

lupoman, we seem to be having a problem here as you are really making some very nasty comments towards me and I don't appreciate it. If you want to carry on a civilized, respectful conversation, that is fine with me and I am open to that. However if you are going to continue with the insulting, nasty and harassing remarks, I will not play this game and unfortunately you will be booted to my ignore list. Common decency, respect and manners would be appreciated. I do believe that is part of the forum guidelines here.

Thank you.


l
upoman;170927]Ok let me be specific for you, I still dont know you, your first post was only 5 days ago, so I also don't trust you.
Sir, let me be specific for you, (to borrow a phrase), I don't care if you know me or not and I don't care if you trust me or not. That's all up to you and I certainly could give a flying rats rear. Comprende?


You remind me of someone who has been banned, with your other posts, all of which were made in the last 5 days.
You remind me of someone who was banned for harassing other forum members.


But I'll entertain you.
If this is your idea of, "entertaining", someone...wow. lol




I was standing next to the drivers door of my car when the Dodge tech started the car. I wanted to take a look under the car while it was up, they allowed me in the shop. I did not hear any odd noises, or clatter or anything. The car started fine. The Dodge dealer of course primed the filter, you would have to either be very inexperienced, or just plain retarded not too. I hope that was specific enough for you to understand.
I, "understand", that for some off the wall reason, you have taken to harasssing me and I really don't appreciate it. Cease and decist. If you want to talk about cars, (which is supposed to be the topic of this forum), that's fine, but the nasty, insulting remarks are off topic and way out of line. Comprende?

You say change the oil every 7500-12000 miles. So your saying that we should ignore the manufactures recommendation and change the oil when we feel like it? So when the car chimes and says it needs an oil change, we should ignore it?
No, I didn't say that and now you are misquoting me. I said many vehicle manufacturers recommend 7,500 mile drain intervals and some go as high as 12,000 miles. However, I think you know this and just want to start a flame war. This is really getting boring and very irritating. Congratulations.


(incoherent blathering deleted)


How about this one section 2301 (9)(a)and (b)
(9) The term "reasonable and necessary maintenance" consists of those operations

(A) which the consumer reasonably can be expected to perform or have performed and
(B) which are necessary to keep any consumer product performing its intended function and operating at a reasonable level of performance.

You are violating the act you just quoted by not changing your oil when they say specifically say do not exceed 6000 miles.
Again, "recommended", doesn't mean, "required". Look it up. You never quoted any owners manual stating it is required for the oil to be changed every 6,000 miles or the warranty is voided. You didn't quote that because it doesn't say that, because it's not true and you darned well know it.


Remember guys, this guy does not own a challenger, he saw one at his local mall. So now he is an expert.
More personal attacks and nasty remarks. Sir, "lupoman", I've been in the auto industry for 25 years and have more certifications and experience than I can name. I'm considered by my associates as one of the best in the nation at my job. I don't need to prove anything to you and you know what? I'm not going to either. You have gone way over the line of common decency, respect and manners. I don't know what your problem is buddy, but leave me alone. Your piss-poor, condescendingly arrogant attitude has won you the first ever ignore award in 15 years. I'm not going to play your childish games. I'm done with you. Welcome to my IGNORE list. Bye!

Last edited by Blue Challenger; 02-21-2009 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 02-21-2009, 03:45 PM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

bwbike;171010]I agree with filling the new filter with oil and it's easy with these Challenger V8's since they are vertical.

However, my other two cars have both have horizontal filters and it's not possible to put oil in without making a mess.
Isn't that a wonderful design? All is not lost though. What you can do is put some oil into the filter and not fill it. This way, you can quickly screw it on to it's mounting stud and get the oil filter gasket to seal before any oil leaks out, creating the mess you noted.

One car has 170,000 miles and I never put oil in a new filter and have had zero problems.
You wont have any problems either. It's just better for the engine to have oil pressure vs no oil pressure.

Remember though, that you don't really start the engine "dry". When you change the oil, you have a film of the old oil remaining in all parts of the engine for the start up.
I understand what you mean, but the term dry start refers to no, or very little oil pressure, not whether the engines metal is physically dry or not. That oil film you refer to does help a bit though, particularly with a PAO or ester based synthetic oil and their massive film strength superiority vs petroleum dead dinosaur lubes or their Group III, "synthetic oil", brethren.
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Old 02-21-2009, 06:56 PM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

Good thread. Besides using Royal Purple and Napa Gold, I highly recommend the Fumoto drain valve that replaces the existing plug. Makes life simple. Get to the Beer quicker.
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Old 02-21-2009, 07:22 PM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

Originally Posted by jedblanks View Post
I agree. Been using PureOne filters and I like them a lot. They are not over priced and they seem to perform well for the amount of time I leave them on there.

I get them at Sears or Advance Auto Parts around here. I'm sure MOPAR is fine too. SuperTech is (or was) ok too. Fram is the only one I'd never use. Love their air filters though.

I like Motorcraft Syn Blend Oil for the price point and 5w20. I also like Mobil 1 0w40, but $$$. bobistheoilguy.com is where I made my decision.


This morning, I had my oil changed by the dealer (my first one was free, so I figured why not?). Service writer was great. Older fellow who owned a new '71 Challenger back in the day.

He told me that if I do want to do my own oil changes, to at least use the factory oil filter because it has an anti-drainback valve in them. Apparently, this vave prevents oil from being sucked out of the filter after the engine is stopped. I went home and checked and Purolators have the same valve, as do many other manufacturers.

I've always been a fan of Castrol GTX, and I'm so happy I don't have to use synthetic now, that's what I'm getting!

Gotta tell ya though...after doing the math, I only save about ten bucks doing it myself, and I don't have to worry about cleanup or disposing of the old oil. And my experience at the dealer was so positive, I have a feeling I'll be having them do oil changes for me more often.
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Old 02-21-2009, 07:28 PM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

Good Info Iron Chef. Thanks. I usually have had my oil changed at a oil change joint, but with the Challenger I want to make sure it's done just right and I'm getting the right oil. Just ordered a Fumoto valve to make things a lot easier. Never knew they existed before joining this site.
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Old 02-22-2009, 09:22 AM
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Re: How to Change Your Oil! Step by Step.

Originally Posted by CTRaider View Post
Good Info Iron Chef. Thanks. I usually have had my oil changed at a oil change joint, but with the Challenger I want to make sure it's done just right and I'm getting the right oil. Just ordered a Fumoto valve to make things a lot easier. Never knew they existed before joining this site.
Oh yeah...those things are great. Had one on my Vette and will definitely get one for the Challenger.
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