Thanks for the confirmation. I was thinking of the exact same location, but wanted to know if anyone else has used this spot. I am doing the rear sway bar change next weekend and need to get the rear end up as high as possible.
I've done the same thing for changing the rear sway bar as well. Use the notched rear rockers for the jackstand heads to support the body.
When lowering the rear subframe, you don't want to lower any more (4"-5")than needed, otherwise the tops of the rear springs will drop free of the upper cup/rubber isolator (one more thing to guide back in).
Support the driver's side rear exhuast pipe so it doesn't get kinked when you unbolt the rear resonators - you can leave the hangers attached at the differential area, the angle isn't that much and the exhaust can tilt with it.
When you raise the subframe back up to re-install it start the longer (rear bolts) by hand, then tighten and raise the subframe more with the jack and then start the front bolts by hand and then tighten them.
If you have the Nivomats (black body) if you have an R/T.
[N/A for the SRT-those have the yellow Bilsteins], you don't need to remove the shocks from the car - the lower attachment bolt in the control arm is sufficient.
Once you have the car on the ground again, re-torque the four big bolts that secure the subrame to the body. With the rubber biscuits compressed by weight, you might need more tightening.
Don't forget to put that sticky grease that Hotchkis supplies onto the bushings - and install the new bracket zerk fittings facing outward
You'll like what the new swaybars will do for cornering...