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Old 11-07-2009, 06:04 PM
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Jacking up the car under the differential

Is it safe to jack the car up by putting a jack under the differential and lifting? I know that there are the 4 lift points, but since I need to get the entirs rear up off the ground at the same time, it seems that the rear differential would be the best place. Will this work? Has anyone done this?
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Old 11-07-2009, 06:50 PM
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I do. I always use a block of wood in the jack saddle and place it just behind, but up against the bottom drain plug. The wood distributes the weight evenly on the body & fins (you don't want to break a cooling fin off).
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:56 PM
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Thanks for the confirmation. I was thinking of the exact same location, but wanted to know if anyone else has used this spot. I am doing the rear sway bar change next weekend and need to get the rear end up as high as possible.
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Old 11-07-2009, 09:06 PM
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Snakepitt,

I've jacked up under the differential several times with a floor jack. I usually have a hunk of 2X4 on the jack.

I also have jacked up under the rear-most front crossmember with no apparent ill effect. There are two front crossmembers and the rear one seems to be more sturdy. It's hiding under the belly pan. I had a piece of wood on the jack for that, too. First I had the front of the car up on ramps and I went from there.

Trying to jack the car up using the recommended jack points is a pain when you're using a floor jack and jack stands.


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Old 11-08-2009, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by snakepitt1 View Post
Thanks for the confirmation. I was thinking of the exact same location, but wanted to know if anyone else has used this spot. I am doing the rear sway bar change next weekend and need to get the rear end up as high as possible.
I've done the same thing for changing the rear sway bar as well. Use the notched rear rockers for the jackstand heads to support the body.

When lowering the rear subframe, you don't want to lower any more (4"-5")than needed, otherwise the tops of the rear springs will drop free of the upper cup/rubber isolator (one more thing to guide back in).

Support the driver's side rear exhuast pipe so it doesn't get kinked when you unbolt the rear resonators - you can leave the hangers attached at the differential area, the angle isn't that much and the exhaust can tilt with it.

When you raise the subframe back up to re-install it start the longer (rear bolts) by hand, then tighten and raise the subframe more with the jack and then start the front bolts by hand and then tighten them.

If you have the Nivomats (black body) if you have an R/T. [N/A for the SRT-those have the yellow Bilsteins], you don't need to remove the shocks from the car - the lower attachment bolt in the control arm is sufficient.

Once you have the car on the ground again, re-torque the four big bolts that secure the subrame to the body. With the rubber biscuits compressed by weight, you might need more tightening.

Don't forget to put that sticky grease that Hotchkis supplies onto the bushings - and install the new bracket zerk fittings facing outward.

You'll like what the new swaybars will do for cornering...
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Old 11-08-2009, 02:53 PM
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Have jacked the rear under the differential w/o any problems, then used the jackstands at the rocker panel points for stability. Car has waaaaay too much plastic underneath. In the future, these cars will be impossible to restore, where will you get all the plastic parts?
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:33 PM
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I know jacking by the rear diff is doable, but if you look weel, just behind the rear diff is a steel crossmember just behind it. That is a WAY better location to jack it up by...
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Old 11-08-2009, 05:17 PM
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On the same subject... how about the front of the car? Can you jack up the front from a single point?
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 808srt8 View Post
I know jacking by the rear diff is doable, but if you look weel, just behind the rear diff is a steel crossmember just behind it. That is a WAY better location to jack it up by...
This is where I jacked mine. It's painted or powder-coated black and it works just fine, with no damage to anything. If you put a 2x4 on the jack saddle, you won't even mar the black. It'd be nice if there was a similar spot to use on the front...
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 808srt8 View Post
I know jacking by the rear diff is doable, but if you look weel, just behind the rear diff is a steel crossmember just behind it. That is a WAY better location to jack it up by...
X2
This is the point I used - looked like a sturdy part of a subframe right behind the pumpkin.
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