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scat pack active exhaust vs aftermarket

78K views 158 replies 46 participants last post by  NevadaEd12 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I currently have a scat pack on order and a solo exhaust system sitting in my garage already (long story)

I've been reading about the active exhaust and am starting to wonder if I should just return the solo if the active exhaust is loud enough under throttle.

Does anyone here have their scat pack already or gotten to listen to the active exhaust in person? Which exhaust is going to be louder/more aggressive sounding? (I like it loud but needs to not pound my head while cruising, which is why I bought solo to begin with)

Also, since they come with active exhaust, which is I assume computer controlled, would swapping to aftermarket mess anything up?

i've listened to sound clips but they all sound different and are never like actually hearing it in person.

Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
To me, it is loud, but pleasant for a factory car. But I never heard the Solo system. It is a lot louder than my factory 2009 R/T manual exhaust system.

The rear resonators are the straight through type with relativaly small offset mufflers under the passenger compartment. I'm not changing mine.
 
#3 ·
I'm not sure if it's computer controlled, or if it's controlled by the pressure of the exhaust gasses (more Fun-Pedal, more exhaust, more noise).

But then...I'm not an engineer (and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night).
 
#4 ·
I'm not sure if it's computer controlled, or if it's controlled by the pressure of the exhaust gasses (more Fun-Pedal, more exhaust, more noise). . .
Each active exhaust valve has a motor on it with wires leading somewhere. So it's likely electrically operated. I'd bet someone will soon rig up a switch to open and close the valves at will.
 
#6 ·
As mentioned in the scat pack forum here, activating sport mode will open up the valves until you turn sport mode off. I personally love the sound of it. I was considering getting a magnaflow exhaust for it but I really don't think I will now. It sounds perfect as it is. Nice cabin sound but loud on the outside when you get on it. Perfect. Start up sounds good too! Definately sounds aftermarket.
 
#146 ·
As mentioned in the scat pack forum here, activating sport mode will open up the valves until you turn sport mode off. I personally love the sound of it. I was considering getting a magnaflow exhaust for it but I really don't think I will now. It sounds perfect as it is. Nice cabin sound but loud on the outside when you get on it. Perfect. Start up sounds good too! Definately sounds aftermarket.
Is it ok to just continually run in sport mode?
 
#7 ·
That all sounds pretty sweet, especially if you can control it via performance pages. So I understand sport mode keeps them open? What about on a 6m? I know those previously didn't have a sport mode. If they don't have a sport mode is there still a way to make them stay open? Or do us 6m guys have a sport mode option now that just doesn't have anything to do with shifts?


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#10 · (Edited)
Mine is a manual. And yes, when it is in sport mode, the active exhaust stays open. After a tip on here (thanks "Charlene") I programmed my Sport Mode (actually it is simpler than it looks at first) to "Sport". The manual cars have a setting for engine, traction control, and steering. Once you do that, just press the Sport button in front of the shifter and the valve opens.

You can hear the difference inside the car best around 2,000 rpm. I tested it going up a steady hill with the cruise control on and then pressing the Sport button to on, then off, then on, then off. The exhaust volume gets a little louder in Sport mode. :D

I put my borescope up the tailpipe to get a look at the active exhaust valve. The valve has a round hole in the middle about the size of a big magic marker so when closed the exhaust goes through the hole thereby quieting the exhaust a little (only a little). The valve remains open when the engine is off and when it is starting & idling. I don't know at what point the valve closes when not in Sport mode (likely when you start driving) or when it starts to open when not in Sport mode as RPM's climb too high.

There is nothing in the manual about the exhaust valve operation. Maybe someone from Dodge will read this and chime in with exactly how and at what RPM it works. ;)


I'm over 300 miles now so I can use more throttle and the entire rev range according the Dodge break-in procedure. If you get on it a bit and take it up over 4,000 RPM, the sound is just awesome coming into the open windows. I'd like to put a microphone on the back bumper (like a GoPro) and hear it from the outside. Maybe someone will do just this.
 
#148 ·
Solo comes with J pipes, and that should take care of the drone problem. I know it did on my sxt. I now have a 392SP and am currently learning about it's exhaust. Regardless, the science behind the J pipes should still work. I had the solo cyclone on the sxt, loved it.

It's perfectly fine.
I'll have to test it today. Instead of spending $1,000 bucks on a new exhaust, I'd much rather only touch a few buttons to get the right sound.
 
#14 ·
No, the active exhaust only comes with the 392 and Hellcat.

I had the solo set up on both a 392 and a 5.7 car. I now have a Scat Pack. Nothing against solo but there is zero reason to swap in my opinion. The stock SP system sounds amazing. I doubt I'll ever swap it.
I'm in the same boat, I had Solo on my 5.7L and now have an SP. The sound/volume of the exhaust is deceiving when driving with the windows rolled up, but roll down the windows and head under an overpass...holy smokes. It's pretty dang loud and sounds great. :) They did a great job on this exhaust.
 
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#13 ·
I had the solo set up on both a 392 and a 5.7 car. I now have a Scat Pack. Nothing against solo but there is zero reason to swap in my opinion. The stock SP system sounds amazing. I doubt I'll ever swap it.
 
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#17 ·
To me the Scat Pack exhaust sounds almost exactly like the Corsa catbacks I've dropped so much money on in the past, so yeah this is definitely going to stay the way it is...except maybe the tips like RJ-LO said above.
 
#18 ·
The "open windows" comment is interesting. The dealer tinted my windows, and told me not to use them for a week. So, the first week of driving it, I was getting used to all the new sounds of the car, and overall, the interior sound is pretty quiet.


The first day that I rolled them down, WOW, I was really suprised on how loud the car is on the outside, and just how dang good the sound is.


For me, it's a perfect set up sound wise, inside and out, and it was in the "sticker price" of the car! :)


Can't ask for more than that, at least I can't.
 
#19 ·
The OEM ScatPack/392 exhaust sounds awesome, that is until you change it, then you realize how much better it can be. Just put a Zoomers on my Sublime Scat, wow what a difference!
 
#20 ·
To be fair and honest, Speedlogix owns Zoomers so they put it on EVERYTHING and then tout how awesome it is. ;) I don't blame you guys, but it comes across more as product pushing than unbiased opinion.
 
#24 ·
I have to agree with Yahooligan about the opinion of an aftermarket product rep. But, not because you're not allowed to have an opinion on it, but because you will likely have a bias for other products that your company does business with and not necessarily those that it doesn't. For what its worth, I didn't even know speed logix had any association with zoomers.

Personally, I was and have been looking at aftermarket exhausts as well... and, I have looked at zoomers. I have a 2016 Scat Pack Shaker on order and so this thread is good for me because I'm now more leaning towards just riding on my stock exhaust, at least for a good year before thinking of an aftermarket product. The problem with us regular joes and aftermarket exhausts is that we don't have the ability to "sample" every product out there to pick the right one out that we want. We're sort of left to fend for ourselves, asking others in forum sites, or looking up videos for sound on YouTube (which is what I do a lot of).

If you have a link to an audio/video clip of the zoomers, I'd like to listen to it!
 
#25 ·
xHemi, a lot of us were just used to having to change the factory exhaust on a Challenger to really give it "that sound",


Sound is subjective, and a personal choice of liking whatever, but you are thinking right of running the stock system for a while to see what it's all about.


These "active exhausts" aren't anything like the pre '15 exhaust systems, as they really do sound SO good, as they are delivered.


I'm sure that all the aftermarket manufacturers aren't jumping for joy with FCA offering these standard on several models, and some folks will still want to change them to their favorite brand. But I'm also guessing that more folks than not will be leaving them alone, or at most, just removing the "center" muffler as a few have already done to a little more "loudness".


Right now, I'm so pleased with how mine sounds, that I wouldn't change it if the new system was for free! LOL................guess that's how pleased I am with the stock set up.
 
#28 · (Edited)
VOICE OF EXPERIENCE

I put an aftermarket exhaust system on my SP. I made enough mistakes (read $) so I'll share to spare...

Your Active exhaust system in a fixed constant as your cars computer system will monitor it. You are wedded to it unless you are prepared to have a Check Engine light on your dash. You can build around it but you will have to have it on the system--fully functional_ lest you throw a code.

If you remove the module you can modify it so the valve will open/close "tricking" the computer into a correct read. There is a others on the site that did some work with screws, bolts and twist ties. Way to messy for me.

So, unless you are good with a CEL Light, you need to keep the system on whatever you do or disconnect and modify.

I left mine on as part of the new system. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZV_4hli04uI
 
#29 ·
I traded my 14 shaker and decided to get a 2016 R/T with a 6 speed. The sound of the exhaust was unbelievable for a factory stock car. The options i had on the shaker are not on the new 16 R/T however, the 16 has some features i really like. I found out that i could change the feel of steering , and when i push sport mode, the car picks up and puts more power to the engine. I am having difficulty getting exact information about my exhaust sound. All i onow is that on start up & Idle, the deep, POWERFUL sound coming from the tailpipes is outstanding, how did dodge do this ? I thought my R/T had the ACTIVE exhaust im reading about but have been told the R/Ts dont have the Active exhaust, so WHAT did dodge do ? I havent been able to hear what it sounds like outside the car when driving. I try to listen next to sound walls on the road & still in the enginebreak in period, have to watch my speed. I dont hear anything with the windows down and have no one to drive it soi can hear it. Every time i try to do an internet search for info. On the R/T i keep getting information on the scat pack,& 392 etc, i cant get away from that, i have not been able to get any answers on why my base 5.7 Hemi R/T sounds so good. Maybe the sound is limited to start up & idle and then quiets down once underway. My 14 5.7 shaker sounded better when i dropped $ 1600.00 on a corsa extreme plus $ 250.00 to get it installed. Sounded good when accelerating hard but pretty quiet at idle. My 16 sounds way better at start up & idle than the corsa did. If my cars exhaust also gets quieter when driving then i will need to get an aftermarket cat back but NOT corsa again. I want a powerful muscle car sound when it starts up and idles & of course when cruising around town & up on the freeway. I dont want any drone but want to hear whats coming out of the 2 exhaust tips. I know the automatic cars with the MDS system suffered the worse drone but heard the 6 speed cars did not have any drone. Now if a catback is needed, WHAT system to get. I have some dough refunded to me from the lifetime warranty that cancelled on my 14 at trade in. I bought another lifetime for the new R/T but this gave me some money to put into my R/T. I will be getting the MOPAR CAI, CATCH CAN,& A PISTOL GRIP for my 6 speed. Trying to find part numbers for the 16s has proven difficult at the dealership and not sure if things listed for the 2015 cars will fit the 16s. They both look the same inside & out but fitment may be an issue.Luke really helped out at steve white motors & sent me links . The pistol grip fit 09 thru 14 and a footnote said will fit a 2015 with some Modifying of things. Maybe 15s are as high as the list goes because the 16s were not yet out at time of article. I NEED TO get on with these mods/improvements before the wife starts thinking differently on the additions to the challenger.she doesnt understand the needs the improvements , she just sees money going elsewhere instead of keeping it in the bank, so i need to move fast without mistakes. New rear spoileris also on the list, this flat thing theycall a spoiler ISNT !. EVEN THE SXT PLUS has the same spoiler as the R/T PLUSES. AND SCAT PACKS. I dont need the rear camera thats in it as i dont have a camera screen for it, i just want the black spoiler to add to the all white car. Sorry for rambling on but time is short and want to know IF i will be needing a cat back or put the dough elsewhere in/ on the car.
 
#30 ·
'15 & 16 require changing out the shift lever in order to change the shift knob. The factory shift knob in molded into the shift lever as a one piece unit. You will need to buy a Hurst Core shift lever off Ebay in order to change out the ball. Just did this on my '15 yesterday.
 
#31 ·
If you think that the stock Scat Pack exhaust sounds as good as Zoomers, then your kidding yourself. I understand not wanting to spend the money for a exhaust replacement, but your still stuck with a stock exhaust at the end of day.

The stock active exhaust isn't that loud and it sounds pretty bad with the mid muffler delete, especially at high rpm. Very raspy and untuned.

Zoomers does flutter and I don't like that part, but it is still much better than the AES.
 
#35 ·
ChoppedRoadie, did you put in a pistol grip shifter ? If so, what does it look like, any pictures ? I read somewhere on here last year about vibrations in the lever down to where it was connected and required some extra bushings to quiet things down. i cant remember WHICH aftermarket shifter it was but i think there are 2 or 3 different shifters available for sale. , mopar, hurst, gunslinger,& i think there was another one as well. I would like to see any pisto] grips in our new challengers look like.
 
#41 ·
The Hurst shifter arm I installed in just the arm ($70) and not the entire shifter assembly. My SP has less than 1k miles on it and so far the stock shifter is doing its job. The shift arm that I bought allows any ball or t-handle with 3/8-16 threads to screw into it. Bought mine with the traditional white Hurst ball. Pull the boot cover out, remove two bolts & stock arm, replace with new arm, tighten new bolts and reinstall boot. Took every bit of five minutes to convert. Nice, simple, inexpensive mod. If/when I decide to go with a complete shifter replacement, it will be a Barton. For now, I'm content. Definitely do the skip shift eliminator. My car didn't start skipping until around 5-600 miles on the odo. You'll hate it when it does. Again, with Race Ramps it took 5 minutes to complete.
 
#42 ·
I've owned my Scat since Sept '14, and now have 13,500 miles on it, and would STRONGLY suggest anyone considering an aftermarket exhaust to wait about 5,000 to 7,000 miles before changing.

I swear my exhaust has gotten deeper and throatier (?) since about that point; and that was about when I began taking it to the strip where the car could run unfettered. I'm convinced doing this "tempered" my exhaust giving it the beastly sound it now has!

Thank you Dodge...the money it would have cost me in previous years to get an exhaust sound like this went instead into my Barton Shifter, Petty strut brace and Stage 1 springs.


www.steelcurtainchallenger.com

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#46 ·
I always thought the stock exhaust sounded amazing until I listened to a guys SRT on Youtube that did the Flowmaster Super 10's and deleted the resonators. I went with that setup and it just sounds awesome! The YouTube video below is not my car, but it sounds exactly like it now. LOVE IT!

Flowmaster 10's no resonators. Bounce back between time stamp 0:04 and 0:18 and listen to the difference right when it starts up. So much deeper and meaner:



In order to enjoy the roar of the exhaust 100% of the time in all driving modes I made some AES (active exhaust valve) simulators. The simulators fake out the PCM by thinking the actuator motors are moving the the actual exhaust valve when they are really moving the simulator. Simply unplugging the connector to AES motors does not work. It will set off codes and the check engine light. I have over two hundred miles on these simulators with no codes or check engine light set. Currently it's the only solution available right now. However you will see shade tree solutions with guys using toggle bolts and a nail as actuator motor stop points. There is a spring on the OEM actuator for a reason. To dissipate heat, but most importantly absorb the shock and force when the motor moves from the open to closed position. Eventually the "nail and togglebolt" solution will fail. The nail will break the actuator drive tip. Not good!




My AES delete simulators:







 
#97 ·
I always thought the stock exhaust sounded amazing until I listened to a guys SRT on Youtube that did the Flowmaster Super 10's and deleted the resonators. I went with that setup and it just sounds awesome! The YouTube video below is not my car, but it sounds exactly like it now. LOVE IT!

Flowmaster 10's no resonators. Bounce back between time stamp 0:04 and 0:18 and listen to the difference right when it starts up. So much deeper and meaner:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=bflKwgF3PTQ

In order to enjoy the roar of the exhaust 100% of the time in all driving modes I made some AES (active exhaust valve) simulators. The simulators fake out the PCM by thinking the actuator motors are moving the the actual exhaust valve when they are really moving the simulator. Simply unplugging the connector to AES motors does not work. It will set off codes and the check engine light. I have over two hundred miles on these simulators with no codes or check engine light set. Currently it's the only solution available right now. However you will see shade tree solutions with guys using toggle bolts and a nail as actuator motor stop points. There is a spring on the OEM actuator for a reason. To dissipate heat, but most importantly absorb the shock and force when the motor moves from the open to closed position. Eventually the "nail and togglebolt" solution will fail. The nail will break the actuator drive tip. Not good!


My AES delete simulator

Are these pics from a 2015 SRT or scat pack?
Can you fill me in on the details on removing the actuators?
Also, once off, how do you set the valve to open, with pliers ?
Thanks
 
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