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Shop refuses to fill with anything but synthetic oil

6K views 46 replies 26 participants last post by  raVenX 
#1 ·
I've been getting oil changes done at my local Dodge Dealer, mainly because they offered four (4) of them at no charge when I bought my 2012 R/T 6spd. I have a local independent shop where I've been taking my wife's car. Their staff has always been very professional, their shop and waiting area are always clean, their prices and treatment have been great, and they even follow up after visits.

The oil-change reminder on my '12 R/T 6spd came on late last week, so I decided to visit this local shop. The gentleman behind the counter said the synthetic oil change would run $64.95. I'm not opposed to synthetic, but I was curious about options----but he stated that he could not put anything but synthetic in my car. This struck me as odd, as I do NOT believe Chrysler requires it and it's not even indicated on the oil filler cap.

I'm not asking whether synthetic is worth the money. I just want to know what is the REQUIRED oil and whether anyone else has had a shop refuse to put anything but synthetic oil in.
 
#5 ·
Only the 6.4L and Hellcat require synthetic, not sure what that guy is thinking of


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Liability? You never know, maybe they did a hemi with non synthetic once and it started ticking, then shop owner lays down law, no more dino for hemi's.

Stranger things have happened.....
 
#6 ·
I've been using synthetic for 20+ years - I'd never use conventional oil again.

Prior to that, every vehicle I owned (maintained per the mfgr. specs) I'd notice the faint blue haze @ cold startup by 60k, especially is the sun was coming in from behind or at an angle.
-when I switched to full synthetics - never had that issue nor the lifter clatter on startup.

Oil consumption as the miles built up with syn. oils was minimal to almost none - with dino oil, the consumption would increase as the miles built up.
 
#11 ·
I am with you. I swear by it.

Our engines run hot anyway. I like the extra temperatures synthetic oils can endurevand not break down. Like that they better lubricate parts that have sat overnight for less wear that first few minutes after startup.

That said, OP has the right to put Dino oil in his car. The shop should not be forcing him to run synthetic.
 
#7 ·
I don't believe that 5.7s come from the factory with synthetic- just good ol' Pennzoil yellow-bottle. Which today is an absolutely great performing oil. Don't get me wrong, I like synthetic oils, but they're far from "required" for your engine. Conventional oils of 2015 are better than full synthetics were in 1995.
 
#10 ·
The reason the zinc was taken out was for EPA crap.. Maybe the shop was just misunderstood on the oil change.. They do have the wright to say what they will and will not do.. It is their shop.. I would just show them your owners manual stating dino oil.
 
#13 ·
Maybe this shop had a bad experience in the past with certain models and/or engines and has made its own policy to fill them only with full synthetic.

In any event, I took a pass on the oil change, not because I dislike synthetic but because I don't appreciate being told I must take their synthetic or nothing---as if I have no say in the matter and am not capable or allowed to decide for myself. No, thanks.
 
#14 ·
I agree and you are right, you should have the choice of synthetic or dino and not the shop. Especially since synthetic is not specifically required for the 5.7 by Mopar.


With that said $65.00 bucks for a synthetic oil change is very reasonable. Providing that was for a full synthetic change and not a semi-synthetic oil change.
 
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#15 ·
$65 is dirt cheap for synthetic oil change. I use Mobil One with an SRT filter and have the local Valvoline joint do it. It costs me about the same with product and labor.
 
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#16 ·
I know you all say that the shop should not force you into anything.. I agree with that, but like the OP said and did if you do not like it go somewhere else. I still say educate them by showing them the owners manual and it saying dino oil... This will help them and you said they do your wife's car so it may come back to help you one day..

I run synthetic in everything I can... Even the lawnmower.. Some do get a tad bit of zinc if it does not have any converters on it.
 
#17 ·
They probably buy their synthetic by the drum or tote and pass along some of the savings.

If I dont get my Mobil 1 0W-40 on sale, its 50 bucks a jug and the SRT filter is 25 on Amazon (.ca)....so about $130CDN after tax (or about $1.50 U.S. :) well, $80.00 anyway).

I wait til its on sale and buy 6 jugs usually, so that cuts the oil price in half.
 
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#21 ·
A little off topic maybe, but back in the 90's some friends and I ran an unscientific test of dino oil versus Mobil 1 Synthetic. We kept small containers (about a half cup) of oil in the freezer and whenever we got together, probably about once a week, we'd heat both oils up to about 250 degrees and then put it back in the freezer. After a year, the dino oil was barely recognizable as oil. It had a thick foam on the top and even if you mixed it, it was more like sludge. The Mobil 1 Synthetic looked exactly like the first day we put it in the container. I never used anything but synthetic oil since running those tests.

Mike
 
#30 ·
I'll bet a boss or owner type gave a directive when larger Hemi's came out with the caveat of, "Only Synthetic." Then the guy you spoke to simply repeated what he was told, not knowing there was even a difference.

And FWIW I've only used full synthetic in all my vehicles for some time. Just seemed like a good investment in the life of our cars.
 
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#34 ·
Why don't you just show him the owners manual? page 451
 
#35 ·
Here's my take on it.

If you're going to drive your Challenger untill the wheels fall off put in 100% FULL Synth.

If you're the kind of guy that wants a different ride every few years or so save some $$$ and put in regular dino oil, any name brand is still great quality oil.
 
#37 ·
Except when a customer is paying for it, you should do what THEY want, it's their money.

To tell a person they HAVE to use a full synth when the factory manual doesn't require it makes no sense.

It's like going to a paint shop and they tell you you HAVE to paint the car with the most expensive premium paint job they have.
 
#42 ·
I think so as well :)
 
#41 ·
#46 ·
True.....in Europe most of the Full Synth oils sold here can't be marketed as full synth oils there because they really arn't, and Europe has tougher standards about oil.
BUT...some of their women don't shave their armpits!! :grin2:
 
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#45 ·
Just the fact you can double or triple your miles between oil changes makes full synthetic worth the extra money and justifies using it.
 
#47 · (Edited)
... I just want to know what is the REQUIRED oil and whether anyone else has had a shop refuse to put anything but synthetic oil in.
Just the correct oil weight is required by Chrysler. The specific weight varies across Challenger models, so check your owners manual.

----

Known to few, as partly mentioned above, is that none of your off-of-the-shelf synthetic oils are 100% synthetic. They are made with a blend of synthetic and conventional oil nowadays.

Years ago, when Mobil 1 had a huge market share, Castrol made a synthetic blend and marketed it as synthetic -- at a reduced price. Mobil 1 took offense and the two sides went to battle. Castrol won and Mobil 1 countered with a stream of blended oils all under the name of synthetic.

So nowadays the only 100% synthetic oils are made by Royal Purple, Amsoil, and maybe one or two others, but none of the major brands here in America.

In the UK, what it says on the label must in the bottle by law. So if it says "synthetic" it must be 100% synthetic. If you buy Mobil 1 in the UK, its 100% synthetic -- just not here in America.

Synthetic oils are known for their protection under high temperatures where conventional oils might break down. In my humble opinion, if you religiously change your oil every 3,000-5,000 and aren't drag racing, then conventional oil will serve you very well. If you put the car under stress, like to drag race or go longer than 5,000 miles between oil changes, then synthetic oil is your best bet.

Whole point being, the mechanic cannot deliver on what he demands. I thought it was a bit humorous and thought I'd give you some history to throw at him.
 
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