OK it is installed, took less than 30 minutes to install.
These steps are my version but comes with detailed instructions
1 Loosen evenly and remove strut tower covers with a flat blade screw driver. You will see small slots to pry from under the cover.
2 Remove EVENLY the nuts that hold down the tops of the struts and then remove them, save nuts for reinstallation in later and final steps.
3 Slip strut brace over the studs; do NOT tighten at this point just snug down nuts to hold in place.
4 Mark holes in rear of brace and drill through chassis brace (located on rear of firewall). I placed an old towel over engine to catch all metal from drilling. You can stick the drill bit through the holes in the strut tower brace to make sure it lines up and then drill pilot holes.
5 Remove strut tower nuts and then remove strut tower Mopar brace completely off of car. Drill holes with 13/32 size drill bit. Go slow.
6 Place strut tower brace back over studs and finger tight put the hold down nuts back on. Leave loose
7 Insert the long 3/8 bolts through the Mopar brace, then one washer will go on either side of the cars chassis brace. So to recap, one washer goes between the strut tower brace and the chassis brace, the other washer on the back side and then put the nut on it. DO NOT tighten yet!
8 After you have inserted both rear bolts, washers, and the nuts on these long 3/8" bolts, just do finger tight for the step for these long 4" nuts and bolts.
9 Now tighten the nuts on the strut towers down evenly is the key, do not over tighten. It calls for 40Nm or 30 ft lbs. I used my torque wrench. Caution, back nuts are a tight squeeze with the extension and the strut flanges. Make sure you use a semi deep or deep 6 point socket. Don’t want rounded nuts.. lol!
10 Now you can tighten the long 3/8" bolts that attach the strut tower brace to the chassis brace to 27Nm or 20 ft lbs.
You are done! Well finish a cold beer now you are done. Man it looks nice too
NOTES:
Covers will not fit, maybe if modified but some type of a billet or chrome part would be better looking if desired.
NOTE to vendors please make one
I also went and used grade 8 chrome 4" 12 point ARP small headed style thick flanged header bolts too. I liked them better than the gold supplied Allen bolts. Yep I am a nut case!
I think the bar looks decent to very nice as is. It appears to be clear coated and or anodized too? One could get it painted, but I think powder coating would be the way to go if you were to do anything?
I have not driven the car yet, it is windy as hell today in Cody so I don’t want to sand blast the paint on the car.
I will report back on the handling when I can. Sorry.
So there ya have it guys and gals!


