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2015 R/T STP Warped Rotors

5K views 28 replies 17 participants last post by  Todd TCE 
#1 ·
I have just under 12k miles and had to have the rotors turned. Pretty disappointed. I don't drive this car very hard and to have the"high performance" brakes that are part of the STP and have this happen this early. Not good. Many others having this problem?
 
#2 ·
I'm not sure about '15s, but my '10 had the STP and the front rotors had to be replaced. The so called upgraded brakes in the STP are crap compared with the Scat Pack or SRT.
 
#18 ·
A lot of times pulsation is caused by uneven deposits of pad material on the rotors (from you driving easy like you said). Did they actually measure run out and parallelism? Or just throw parts at it?

This can sometimes be fixed by doing a bedding procedure which will re coat the rotors with a nice even layer of pad material.

.
 
#6 ·
My 2014 RT Plus had to have a rotor or two replaced. I kept complaining about a low mph squeal when stopping. Still continues to this day at 18000 miles. I went to the dealer 3-4 times. I gave up and will upgrade my brake system when I hit 30K miles.
 
#8 ·
Unacceptable really. We bought a performance car and on top of that an upgraded package with bigger "better" brakes. No reason for this. Car hasn't been to a track or driven hard. Simply a daily driver. Having issues with brakes on cars is just dumb. Not a good look for dodge. Dealer just said, yeah it's a big heavy car. Once you are stopped try and take your foot off the pedal to let things cool. Come on, really. So I have to think about taking my foot off the brakes every time I stop. Crazy.
 
#19 ·
If you have the Brembo brakes the caliper is fixed so any runout you are going to feel. Along with performance pads you might be able to feel .003" runout.

Its all part of the game. The higher you go in performance there are more trade offs. Tires ,brakes,weather etc.

Could also try and make sure the wheels are torqued to spec evenly and in 3 steps. its pretty easy to overlook. Do your brake bed in,there 20 different blurbs on the net about how to do it. MOPAR has a TSB on it as well.

The other thing is I retaught my self to brake hard EARLY and then come to a progressive stop. It takes some retraining. At the end of your stop ,last few feet, you dont need brakes at all just the tripping the brake lights to warn the driver behind you. I think it really helps.

I have mostly non ABS cars and I found you have alot more traction at speed then you do at 10 mph.
 
#9 ·
You have to bed your brakes properly and yes, if you keep your foot on the brake after a hard stop the material from the brake pads will transfer to the rotor and cause "wobble." These are big heavy sports cars and you have to treat them as such.
 
#11 ·
Clown comment, wasp392. You are correct smarty pants senior member. NOBODY has heard of bedding brakes before. Only you. Thanks for enlightening us all. Very helpful response. Moving forward when you want to make a useless comment you can use the search function and key in Clown comment and remind yourself. By the way, I did use the search function and didn't see much regarding 2015's with issues. Just past years. So I was curious if this was an isolated instance. Happy Friday.
 
#13 ·
Darn. You got me. Low class, uneducated. Reality is. If you didn't have anything positive to add to the post, than maybe you should not have read it. Or better yet, not responded since you had nothing of value to add. Maybe you should just own it. Admit to being burned out with this forum and the 7300+ posts you have made over the last 3+ years. Maybe you need a break. Get away from it for a bit. Come back refreshed and ready to help. I will own my childish yet entertaining response and we can have a great long weekend.
 
#15 ·
Not really sure how me coming to a source like this forum and posing concerns and questions gives the impression that I'm entitled and lazy. Last I checked these forums are built on people with different experiences sharing concerns, comments, solutions and sometimes just stories. And it feels like you are not interested in helping. Lighten up a little. I wasn't looking for ridicule. Just some input and answers and experiences on 2015's and possible brake issues. Move along.
 
#16 ·
Well, in my case, my R/T had over 16,000 miles on it, so I would think the brakes should have been well bedded in by then. My son took the car out and slammed the brakes on real hard ONCE at speed (I was driving my SRT and witnessed it) and the front brakes were toast. I replaced the rotors with after market ones and never had an issue after that. Like I said though, it was a 2010 and I'm not sure if anything's changed in the R/T STP brakes up front.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the tips. I did try and run it through the paces once I felt the issue. Braking hard several times and trying to work it out. Didn't have any luck. They resurfaced the rotors. Time will tell. What is the information on the TSB mentioned. Tried searching and didn't find anything related to 2015's. Thanks for the info.
 
#24 ·
That's a good article. I'll let you guys know if I ever get warped rotors but after a few decades of driving it hasn't happened yet. Every time I take the wheels off I wire brush the hub and wheel surfaces then carefully torque the lug nuts down. And the part about staying off the brakes after a hard stop is also crucial and good practice. I can't even remember the last time I bought rotors and the way the A8 downshifts you to a crawl I think these SRT brakes will last a while.

Now if you really want to see some brake abuse ..

https://youtu.be/qc_v6tXsv6g

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 
#25 ·
Mine warped at 16K miles. With the procharger now I went with the BAER pro plus kit and called it a day.
 
#26 ·
Yup. my front rotors were also toast on my 2013 RTC after making a panic stop for a bicyclist that decided to cut in front of me. I was only going about 30 mph, but it was evidently enough. replaced the entire brake system with Wilwood systems.... what a difference, much more confident in bringing the car to a stop. Oh.... almost forgot.... I DID bed them in properly:wink3:
 
#27 ·
FWIW I had the dealership resurface the drivers side rotor at 8k and haven't had any issues in another 8k miles. I think my chrome clad wheel was improperly torqued from the factory.
 
#29 ·
Proper bedding and usage can go a looong way to enhance both the life of the parts and enjoyment of driving.

Failing to apply the proper transfer layer to new or turned rotors can create an excessive amount of slip. Pads don't like rotors...pads like pad material and bond well once heated up. Establishing the base layer is crucial to longevity.

Any car fit with an automatic transmission is at a serious handicap when it comes to rotor life. That's simply do to the continued application of pressure on the pads to the disc while hot. Such as high speed off-ramps and hard braking at the light. The 'even' itself doesn't cause a problem; it's the post stopping that does. Even held at high temps for under a minute will bond friction material to the disc. That in turn begins the lengthy build up which in time creates the eventual pulsation.

Only bumping a car into Neutral (easy win a console anyhow) or slowly creeping ones car forward a foot or so with "clamp and release" on the pedal will help prevent this. This is why you may see a crew member in a race just 'nudge' a car a bit in the pits while it's hot- they're moving the pads on the rotor to prevent this problem.

Does it really work or am I blowing smoke...? Well, I don't have any reason to spend this time typing it for no reason. And I replaced my oe pads on my Titan for the first time (2004) at 138,000mi. But kept the same rotors. Same one I use daily in the city and tow the race car with etc. ...so yeah it really does make a difference.
 
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