How do you change brake pads on a SRT8 Challenger?
I have changed brake pads on dozens of cars over my many years. I am ready to change out the stock dust makers for a set of EBC Red pads. Do I have to remove the calipers? Or can they stay on the car? Is there a procedure for changing the pads that someone can put into cyberspace for me?
2009 TORRED 6 spd, Blown Arrington 426 engine, Arrington 90mm Billet TB W/ nitrous, MBRP exhaust, 1400hp axles, Spec 900TQ clutch, Hurst shifter, catless mids, Hotchkis suspension, HopNot stage 2, Sport Muscle wheels, SLP Line lock, Carbon Fiber front / rear spoilers, CAI and fuse cover, Mopar strut tower brace, Custom paint and graphics, ZEX nitrous, Braided lines, 792.3hp and 821.2 torque on Superflow Dyno, and frikkin laser beams.
Here you go (from the service manual w/o pictures).
Note that this is for the SRT8 only.
1. Raise and support vehicle. (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure)
NOTE: Perform Step #2 through Step #8 on each side of vehicle to complete pad set removal.
2. Remove wheel mounting nuts (3), then tire and wheel assembly (1).
3. Using hammer (4) and pin punch (3) on outboard end, tap lower brake pad support pin (2) out of caliper (1).
4. Remove brake pad spring clip (2) out from under the upper support pin (1) still in caliper.
5. Using pin punch (3) and hammer (4), remove upper brake pad support pin (2) in same manner used on lower support pin.
CAUTION: When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, if hand pressure is not sufficient, use only a trim stick as shown or other suitable soft tool to do so. Never use a screwdriver or other metal pry bar due to potential damage to braking surface of rotor or pads.
6. Using hand pressure, pull pads back to seat caliper pistons into bores if possible. If not possible, perform the following to do this correctly without damaging the caliper, pistons, dust boots or brake rotor disc. a. Place trim stick (3) between inboard brake pad and outer edge of rotor (1).
b. Using trim stick (3), apply pressure against the inboard brake pad until both pistons are completely bottomed in bores of inboard caliper half. Leave trim stick in place to hold pistons in place.
c. Place second trim stick between outboard brake pad and rotor, then repeat above step on outboard pad and pistons.
7. Remove inboard brake pad (2) through opening in caliper (1). Remove outboard brake pad in same manner.
8. Once brake pads are removed from caliper (1), inspect all four caliper pistons (3) and dust boots (2) for evidence of brake fluid leakage. Also inspect dust boots on all caliper pistons for any cuts, tears or heat cracks and brake pad supports (4) (if equipped) for excess wear or damage. If caliper fails inspection, it should be replaced.
2015 R/T 23G, 6-Speed Tremec (ordered - currently in "D1" status)
Mods: Skip Shift Eliminator (future)
2009 R/T 27F, 6-Speed Tremec
Mods: Skip Shift Eliminator, Hood Struts, Functional Hood Scoops, RPI Designs Mud Flaps, Cabin Air Filter, OEM Sound Group II
The Following User Says Thank You to bwbike For This Useful Post:
Hey BwBike, do you have a step-by-step for putting them back in...it's been a while since I changed brakes and I forget about how to re-pressurize the pistons or brake fluid or bleeding the brakes or whatnot....also, what kind of brake fluid does the SRT use, dot 3 or dot 4?
It is truly amazing how nice Brembo's are to work on, your definitely right about them being dust makers, I take mine out and clean them every other month or so when they start squealing and my cars not a daily driver. I found a nice how to on youtube the first time (I'm more of a visual learner), I'm sure it's still around. The most time consuming part is jacking up the car and removing the wheel. As for the calipers, just tap out the two pins (it helps to apply a little pressure to the end of the spring/cradle as you are tapping out the 1st pin) it just relieves some pressure and allows the pin to slide out easier but is not necessary. I only mention that step because the pin tends to get 1/2 way out then wants to **** sideways because of the pressure. That only applies to the first pin, after the first pin is out there is no pressure on the 2nd one. You will love your car even more after experiencing how easy it is to do the pads on the Brembo's.
SRT8 6 Speed, ZEX 150 shot, AFE CAI, Long IAT sensor, Fastman 84mm TB, Full 3" Super 44 exhaust, Custom x-pipe, Black SOLO Tips, BT Catch can, 180 t-stat, 20" Vipers, Nitto 315/35/20's on the rear, Eibach Sportline's, SLP 25% Under drive Pulley, Hurst Short Shift kit, SLP Line Lock, ESP Bypass Mod, Skip shift eliminator, Johan tuned, TA Hood & pins, Tinted Windows, smoked front side markers, tinted headlights, Wrapped center taillight, blacked out grill, SE fuel door & Custom Nose Badge
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