I just lowered my 09 R/T 6speed with H&R lowering springs. The stance is so nice, lost the wheel gap and stiffened the suspension up. But every time I go over a bump I hear thump noise from the side I hit the bump. Any suggestions?
I just lowered my 09 R/T 6speed with H&R lowering springs. The stance is so nice, lost the wheel gap and stiffened the suspension up. But every time I go over a bump I hear thump noise from the side I hit the bump. Any suggestions?
I may have an easy fix for the “Dreaded Suspension Pop” a lot of us are hearing, especially car’s built in the fall of 2008.
The problem (for me at least) was in the sway bar end links. Thanks to Grey Ghost for the heads-up on this. Here’s a picture of how it came assembled from the factory. Looking from left to right is the ball socket, rubber boot, flange (rusty), washer, sway bar, nut and then the stud end (also rusty).
The problem is that the stud is a smaller diameter than the hole it’s meant to fit in, for both the sway bar and the strut connection points. I’m sure some bean counter decided they could get away with it because “no one would notice” and they’d save a few pennies.
There is a tremendous amount of force exerted on this link, and it seems the factory “solution” was to put a cheap washer on one side to spread the load and try to hold it in place. It didn’t work. When the stud was forced to move in the larger hole, the popping sound was born.
The fix is easy. You’ll need a 21mm box wrench and a 10mm socket. Since I didn’t have a box wrench in that size, I used a 21mm (or 13/16”) deep socket and Vise-Grips. The object is to make sure the stud (and therefore the ball socket) does not rotate when removing the nut. It’s probably best not to use an impact wrench for this to avoid spinning the stud. I easily held the stud stationary by clamping on to the ‘flange’ with the Vise-Grips.
Here’s a picture as it’s being disassembled showing the difference in size between the end link stud and the sway bar hole. (red arrow)
When the end link has been removed from the car, just take a hammer and knock off the washer. It’s lightly press-fit on the ‘shoulder’ portion of the stud (red arrow) and will come off easily.
Why remove the washer? This is the answer to the whole problem. The ‘shoulder’ area of the stud is just the right diameter to fit in the sway bar and strut tower holes without any slop. The ‘flange’ on the stud will center it in place, so just re-assemble the end link without the washer and everything fits nice and snug. The washer could be used on the other (nut) side, but I left it off. You'll use this same procedure for the upper connection point on the strut.
I’ve driven the car now for a few weeks and put many hundred’s of miles on it and I’ve never heard that ‘popping” sound again…not once. I can’t guarantee it will work for you, but I found a solution that didn’t cost me a dime and I’m now a whole 4 washers lighter!
Man that looks good! Love the gray R/T fender strip too!
Michael
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Corsa Sport Catback and Eibach Pro Kit springs. SOLD 76 Chevy Camaro, 496 BBC, 4L80E Trans, street driven to the track, 6.74 N/A 1/8 mile.
Thanks, the ride quality is great, but then again most of the cars I owned were lowered. A 78 Camaro, 94 Toyota Corolla and 03 Expedition. I found out, I didn't put the a washer between the shock mount and shock, no more noise... yay!! I'm getting a lot of ideas on different mods. I only had the car for 3 weeks and done over a 12 dozen mods. The biggest were the 2.5" dual exhaust and lowering it on H&R springs. Takes turns great, sway bars next. Waiting on my side markers tint from Big Worm.
Thanks, the ride quality is great, but then again most of the cars I owned were lowered. A 78 Camaro, 94 Toyota Corolla and 03 Expedition. I found out, I didn't put the a washer between the shock mount and shock, no more noise... yay!! I'm getting a lot of ideas on different mods. I only had the car for 3 weeks and done over a 12 dozen mods. The biggest were the 2.5" dual exhaust and lowering it on H&R springs. Takes turns great, sway bars next. Waiting on my side markers tint from Big Worm.
What noise was it making? Also, do sway bars go under the car or behind the engine?
Do the 2009 6-speeds also have the black load-leveling Nivomat rear shocks? Something to check, if they are then you'll need to swap out your rear shocks if you didn't do that as part of the spring install.
Your car looks great! Stock height is just too high.
Mine is an 09 and after he answered my pm i went out and crawled under to be slightly dismayed by finding the nivomats in there..i mean there great shocks but I need to drop my bish baaaad!! I love the look of 707 hemis car..thats the exact look im going after...do you guys know of some good affordable rear shocks as replacements? they are only in the rear right?
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