I'm running close to 550 RWHP and as you know the stock tires are worthless. Are there any 20inch tire that I can get and install on my stock rims to get me better traction out of the hole? I plan on leaving them on for dd also not just racing. THANKS
Question... why are you posting asking about tires and catch cans when you are selling your SRT in the classifieds section? Are you trying to draw more attention to your sales thread?
One has nothing to do with the other. I would like to sell it. I have my eye set on something else, but if not I'll just keep it, I like the car I just need a better hooking tire. It's just a real beast to drive with the stock tires, it will get sideways on you real quick on the street.
Nitto 555r 305/35/20, I have the 275's and I am at 615hp to the tire. I wanted the 305 but they were back ordered so had to go with the 275's they are a huge improvement over stock. Not the stickiest but good for racing and being a DD.
I fail to see how a 555r drag radial is a good DD tire lol. If you want the most sticky STREET tire made for the track and daily driving with a 300 tread rating then go with the Michelin Pilot Super sport tires. I've got a set on the rear in 295/35/20 size. great great tire.
I've seen you make posts about that many times now, and in case you are curious, when the suspension is loaded and launching, the rear tires bite real well. When I do a burnout I most certainly leave a full tread width of rubber on the road.
Is this all in your head or have you actually conducted some experiments tinkering around with the rear alignment settings? Perhaps there are some things the SRT engineers compensated for or took into account that you are not considering when you just see the specs alone on paper?
Why do people think that I really don't even know how that would work. HERE'S THE FACT JACK I DON'T NEED TO SELL THE CAR BUT I WOULD LIKE TO CAUSE I HAVE MY EYE ON SOMETHING ELSE BUT IF I DON'T SELL IT THAT'S JUST FINE BUT I NEED REAR TIRES CAUSE THE STOCK TIRES ARE WORTHLESS, I CAN BARELY LEAVE FROM A STOP LIGHT WITHOUT SPINNING THEM, ALSO IT HAS A OIL CATCH CAN ON IT WHEN I BOUGHT IT SO I WAS ASKING WHAT THE BENEFITS OF ONE IS. I don't see the %@$#@*#$*& mystery in that
your going to need a 305/35/20 or a 295/35/20 Nitto 555R, BFG I've heard good things on this tire. I run a 315/35/20 on 10" rim now but before that I ran a 9" rim NT05r they worked very well on the street kept them at around 26-28 psi at the track they were soso... in the rain decent but I only got about 5,000 miles before they were cooked.
I don't understand. I would like to sell the car but if I don't that's fine. I did get some tires and rims. Bought a set of 2011 rims for the rear and a set of Mickeys 305/35R20. You people are STUPID!!!! If I don't sell it FINE but I wanted to get something so I could run the car and see what it would run. Last time I took it to the track it spun all the way through first so I needed some tires. As of now it's my car and I want to enjoy it. I may never sell it so what am I'm suppose to do, just let it sit there. I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY YALL DON'T UNDERSTAND
Well I did get the tires the picture from the rear the tire on the driver's side is the Mickey stock tire on ps. Anyways if I sell the car the Mickeys go with it. No fun taking to the track when you can't launch the car. I don't understand why some people can't understand that I was looking for tires and rims for my car when I had it for sell. I still want to enjoy the car and it may not sell and if it does then they can enjoy the Mickeys. Anyways hope everyone who understands a nice day. It's a good day for it
Well I did get the tires the picture from the rear the tire on the driver's side is the Mickey stock tire on ps. Anyways if I sell the car the Mickeys go with it. No fun taking to the track when you can't launch the car. I don't understand why some people can't understand that I was looking for tires and rims for my car when I had it for sell. I still want to enjoy the car and it may not sell and if it does then they can enjoy the Mickeys. Anyways hope everyone who understands a nice day. It's a good day for it
Because no one thought there was someone daft enough to put up a for sale ad for a car then another topic asking for tires because you can't get it to hook at the track. Do you not see the problem of drag racing a car you intend to sell?
Yeah I'm sure tons of people are gonna be ALL OVER THAT sweet deal.
It'll bite even better, as they approach zero camber on launch and loading.
When you do a burnout and leave 2 tire tracks, you aren't doing nearly the amount suspension loading (if any, at all) because you aren't really accelerating the car in that scenario. Hence, the appearance of tires tracks is not all that indicative of tire contact when doing real launching. Plus over time, your tires are just going to wear at an angle to complement the camber, anyway. So now you got conical shaped tires, which is even more a mess as far as optimal traction on loading (but I'm sure they'll leave nice full black stripes on burnout, if that is what your goal was).
Yes, the experimentation comes from real experiences on my own car. I wouldn't be speaking up so much about it (for the benefit of the readership, here) if it was just a subtle effect. It is not a subtle effect. It's a marked effect. As far as SRT engineers, they are just engineers...not magicians. They are still confined by the laws of physics like everybody else. Engineering isn't always about optimizing to a max, rather more often finding an optimal middle ground between 2 (or more) conflicting parameters. In the case of these LX cars, perhaps they saw cornering benefits as a greater priority than launch traction benefits?...or maybe they just didn't think it was all that important (as in a cost proposition) to apply oem camber bushings when lowering the suspension by that amount as is present in the SRT model? The amount of camber you see in the SRT isn't some magical number that they figured out was optimal. It is just the native camber that comes out of the mix for that suspension architecture at that ride height.
Point being, using the motivations or objectives of the "SRT engineers" as some sort of blanket justification for why it is the way it is, is kind of silly, imo. (If you are modding things on your car, you are already questioning their choices, by default ) They are talented and skilled people in their profession, for sure. I would never question that. However, not everything that appears on an SRT model is directly up to their control, and when it is, it may not be for the reason/benefit that you think.
The good news is that my new tires are wearing pretty evenly with about 3k miles on them, they are 275/40s. The stock F1's lasted 12k miles and wore pretty evenly too from side to side. I don't spend a lot time doing burn outs for show, but I launch my car a lot and spin the tires plenty of times, and do a few show off burn outs from time to time. I have tested the adhesion limits versus rpms and been in a ton of stop light tussles. Spun the tires while the rear was squatted, had them hook in the process, I will just say that my factory setup is capable as is anyone's if they are wiling get some seat time and dial it in. I think it is irresponsible for you to recomennd someone mess with their alignment when you haven't posted any specs or proven gains.
This is stock of course, with lowering kits or coil overs and other significant suspension mods then yes the alignment likely should be checked.
You simply got used to what the factory setup can offer, but that doesn't mean that is all it can offer. You are a disbeliever. That is fine. Don't believe. Nobody is ordering you to believe. If it's not your cup of tea, move on. If you are happy with your setup, I am completely fine with that. I don't suggest you change a thing.
For others looking/expecting more, I offer a solution. You have a strangely selective caution when you call me out for "messing with the alignment", but in the same post, lowering kits, coil-overs, and "significant suspension mods" are no cause for worry. If your ride height changes, then getting your alignment checked/adjusted isn't going to correct the camber on these cars, anyway. Why don't you know that? That suggests to me that you are objecting on a subject that you have very low knowledge on...am I right?
Randy you said the only experiment you've done is with your car which is a 09 RT with no STP and I believe came with the 18" wheels. Fact is I've only heard of a very few owners with uneven tire wear after being here for a couple of years reading pretty much every post. That's a lot of reading. Lol. That proves to me that the engineers have done the testing necessary to come up with the specific alignment specs for each trim. Also note that they did some changes on 2011+ models. That's when they came out with new and improved suspensions. Including all trims. I believe they set the speciations based on each trim suspension geometry. As Eric mentioned earlier you make this recommendation too often and IMO based on a theory. Yours and your car alone. Your posts are usually very informative in general but on this one I have to disagree with you.
I have a feeling alignment specs are far less glamorous a process than people make it out to be. They aren't customized for each model, as some might suspect. The lower the car is, the more static camber will emerge (per the native orientation of the hardware). The manufacturer specs just skew the "allowable" range along with that model. There isn't any magical number to the camber...just the number that comes out of the mix when you lower the car to height x. What the engineers spend all their testing on is spring rates, roll stiffness, and damping.
Bring the camber closer to zero, you're going to get better contact...simple as that. When you go in and start tweaking spring rates, anti roll bars, and shocks...then you are truly throwing all that work the engineers did out the window.
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