Fuel lean problem with pro charger supercharger installed - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel lean problem with pro charger supercharger installed

Hey,

Taking the car in tomorrow for a oil change and check up. But the car pulled up a check engine light on my way to work today. (P0171 lean fuel)

I had to hammer on the gas to avoid a collision. Thinking I added to much boost and throwing the lean fuel code?

I’ve tried to erase the code but it seems to keep on returning. I’ve done a bunch of research but haven’t found anything containing my case with the aftermarket super.

I bought the car used last year with everything installed already.

2016 RT 30,000 km

Supercharger procharger P-1SC-1

Thanks for any help guys!

Cheers
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 10:20 AM
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How much boost you running?
What size injectors?
Was the primary fuel pump upgraded?
Do you know if drop-in forged pistons were installed?
What tuner/tune is it using...HP tuners or Diablo Sport?
You running a wideband?

Sounds like either your PE tables need more fuel or the fuel pump/injectors are not sized properly or you are running too much boost ~8psi is considered safe on stock pistons and ring gap. Best thing to do would be to bump up WOT fueling and log some runs.


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2015 Challenger RT+ (non-STP)
8lb Magnuson w/ Innovate PSB-1 wideband/boost/shift light gauge
Corsa extreme (2.5")
4" Aluminum one-piece driveshaft
Hellcat bottom airbox
Stainless Works LT headers (2" primaries)
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 10:53 AM
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I would not hammer on the car until you get this resolved. Lean conditions and boost do not go well together.

1.) Get a tuner, remove current tune, upload a new tune from a reputable dyno shop or email tuner (or contact Procharger directly and see if they will send you a stock tune file to use)
2.) Install a wideband if not installed already
3.) Datalog for knock and AFR. You want to have 0 knock and a nice AFR (for boost around 11.0-11.5:1 is probably a good start)

You have no idea what tune is currently on the car. It may be from a reputable tuner, or it could be some guy just randomly changed stuff around having no clue and that's how you bought it. Get a solid tune on there and then fine tune from that point.

Carl
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cdahl383 View Post
I would not hammer on the car until you get this resolved. Lean conditions and boost do not go well together.

1.) Get a tuner, remove current tune, upload a new tune from a reputable dyno shop or email tuner (or contact Procharger directly and see if they will send you a stock tune file to use)
2.) Install a wideband if not installed already
3.) Datalog for knock and AFR. You want to have 0 knock and a nice AFR (for boost around 11.0-11.5:1 is probably a good start)

You have no idea what tune is currently on the car. It may be from a reputable tuner, or it could be some guy just randomly changed stuff around having no clue and that's how you bought it. Get a solid tune on there and then fine tune from that point.

Thanks for getting back to me guys,

Im looking around in Toronto now for a proper tune if you know anyone around that would be great.


Cheers
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdahl383 View Post
I would not hammer on the car until you get this resolved. Lean conditions and boost do not go well together.

1.) Get a tuner, remove current tune, upload a new tune from a reputable dyno shop or email tuner (or contact Procharger directly and see if they will send you a stock tune file to use)
2.) Install a wideband if not installed already
3.) Datalog for knock and AFR. You want to have 0 knock and a nice AFR (for boost around 11.0-11.5:1 is probably a good start)

You have no idea what tune is currently on the car. It may be from a reputable tuner, or it could be some guy just randomly changed stuff around having no clue and that's how you bought it. Get a solid tune on there and then fine tune from that point.

Thanks for the info man, appreciate it. Regarding email the tuner I don’t have any info from who installed the pro charger or did the tuning. The car seems to run fine I had it all last summer and then I brought it out from storage (For the winter). I’m taking the car in tomorrow I’ll let the guy take a look at it.

If I were to email procharger directly what sort of device would I need to uplod the tune after?

Cheers

Jc
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChallyTatum View Post
How much boost you running?
What size injectors?
Was the primary fuel pump upgraded?
Do you know if drop-in forged pistons were installed?
What tuner/tune is it using...HP tuners or Diablo Sport?
You running a wideband?

Sounds like either your PE tables need more fuel or the fuel pump/injectors are not sized properly or you are running too much boost ~8psi is considered safe on stock pistons and ring gap. Best thing to do would be to bump up WOT fueling and log some runs.

I know literally none of those answers.

I just bought the car at of end of July last year drove it till around Start of November. No problems. Put in storage for winter fuel stabilizer battery disconnectedNow it’s back out. Filled it up twice with 91 no problems until the code today.

Their is no Wideband on the car, looks fairly simple to install so I might just do it myself.

I believe it’s diablo, again I need to find out way more about the car. That’s why you guys are a huge asset.

I would love for this car to last me 3-5 years.

Any idea or video of how to lower the boost pressure entering the Chambers? Or would you recommend just having it tuned again.


Cheers,

Jc
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 787mech View Post
Any idea or video of how to lower the boost pressure entering the Chambers? Or would you recommend just having it tuned again.


Cheers,

Jc
I have never had personal experience with procharger and I am not sure of your particular set-up but I believe it is by a either the pulley size or a boost controller. Do you have a boost gauge? If so what is it showing? Should not be more than 8psi...although I think the older model kits were closer to 7psi.

Guys like us1champ are better versed with prochargers. I would never install a SC without having a wideband installed...it's the only way to confirm AFR is safe at WOT.

If you have the DS tuner that came with the car, I would bump up WOT fueling by ~15%. But I would not even attempt WOT until you get a wideband installed. Most email tuners require it for remote tuning SC engines.

Last edited by ChallyTatum; 05-02-2019 at 02:17 PM.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Went back out to the car to take some more photos and found some interesting things.

1. Filter is crazy dirty so I’m getting the replaced ASAP

2. The left side bank looks pretty dirty around where the plastic intake meets the engine

3. Another code came up when I ran a diagnostic.

4. Let the car run in idle for a bit and it’s super bogged down running very rough.

5. A wire connection at the back of the engine that looks like it’s held together with some masking tape? Any idea what that’s for?

Attached is photos of everything I’ve said above.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 787mech View Post
I know literally none of those answers.

I just bought the car at of end of July last year drove it till around Start of November. No problems. Put in storage for winter fuel stabilizer battery disconnectedNow it’s back out. Filled it up twice with 91 no problems until the code today.

Their is no Wideband on the car, looks fairly simple to install so I might just do it myself.

I believe it’s diablo, again I need to find out way more about the car. That’s why you guys are a huge asset.

I would love for this car to last me 3-5 years.

Any idea or video of how to lower the boost pressure entering the Chambers? Or would you recommend just having it tuned again.


Cheers,

Jc

ChallyTatum is right. With any type of pullied blower, you change the pulley to change the boost. A bigger pulley turns the blower slower, making less boost and a smaller pulley will spin it faster and make more boost.


If you can't find a tuner near you, then find the best mail order tuner that you can to get you in the ball park and then log, log some more and then log some more after that. Logging with the right parameters set will only make your tune better with fewer problems.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 787mech View Post
Went back out to the car to take some more photos and found some interesting things.

1. Filter is crazy dirty so I’m getting the replaced ASAP

2. The left side bank looks pretty dirty around where the plastic intake meets the engine

3. Another code came up when I ran a diagnostic.

4. Let the car run in idle for a bit and it’s super bogged down running very rough.

5. A wire connection at the back of the engine that looks like it’s held together with some masking tape? Any idea what that’s for?

Attached is photos of everything I’ve said above.
In all honesty, I would run the highest octane you can...it is more protection against knock. The tune I have is meant to work well with 91 but I run 93 exclusively and I use big name brand gas companies like Mobil/Shell/BP.

Here are some things to check:

1) That P0300 is a multiple cylinder misfire code which could mean bigger problems. Check all your spark plugs for signs of aluminum deposits or bent ground tab, if there is that means you were getting significant knock (running lean tends to result in knock) or chunks of the piston were floating in the cylinder. Here is where a bore scope would come in real handy.

2) Make sure your intake manifold bolts are properly torqued. That staining around the intake ports (between the intake manifold and heads) is usually a sign that the manifold bolts are "loose". Although seeing the worst area is by the oil fill, it just might be residue from oil spills during fill-up.

3) Check your air tubes for signs of oil. If you see a heavy coating you could be getting significant blowby which could be a another sign that the piston(s) is(are) damaged.

Not to scare you but recently there was a member here with a procharger setup that damaged a piston. What kills the pistons is the heat from running too lean...the top ring will expand to the point that the ring gap closes to the point that tops of the piston ring landing (hypereutectic pistons are brittle) can't handle...then bang...a chunk of the piston goes flying.
https://www.challengertalk.com/forum...7=#post8456769

Last edited by ChallyTatum; 05-02-2019 at 02:45 PM.
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