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Magnuson installed (6psi Carb)

9K views 49 replies 12 participants last post by  Toxic11 
#1 · (Edited)
Finally done with the install. Took 3 days (my bother helped 2 out of the 3 days).


I'd say the hardest part is removing the radiator fan and re-installing, its like a puzzle and lots of maneuvering in a tight spot. Pinning the crank is easy with 2 people with proper tools and the rest is pretty straight forward.


The car start right up with the tune that came with the supercharger. I noticed that there seem to be a little delay on the accelerator pedal compared to stock calibration. The boost seem to come at 3200 rpm like having a turbo and when it lit hang on (j/k). These are my observations and not knocking Magnuson. This is a CARB complaint kit so i understand the tune being conservative. So far im pretty happy with it and thanks to Luke @ SteveWhiteMotors for being patience with me. Thanks to ChallyTatum for offering help and tips on the install. Just need to contact few tuners for custom tunes to maximize the SC potential

Also upgraded fuel pump with A2speed and so far so good.














 
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#4 ·
Did you get the kit because it was CARB compliant? Did you get a sticker to put in the engine compartment? Wouldn't changing the tune take away the CARB certifed tune, making it no longer compliant?

A Guy
 
#9 ·
You can always ship your car to Luke at Steve White if you cant find any installer that you can trust in your area.



Btw, the tune that packaged with the kit is not so bad after all now that i have something to compare it with. Got my initial custom mail tune and the top end does not pull as hard compared to package tune. It's just the initial tune and im sure i'll get more revisions until im happy with it.
 
#10 ·
You should be able to hook up a Diablo Intune to the car and then record how the engine is running and have the tune adjusted. That's what I did with Arrington on mine because I had a little hesitation in the beginning, too. After the adjustment there is no hesitation. I also run only 6lbs of boost on my 392. Anything more and I'm afraid things will break... probably starting with the weakest link--the half shafts; and then probably the pistons, or the other way around?
 
#14 ·
didn't really play with the tuner after i've loaded the tune and was too busy at work. noticed that earlier when doing data logging that i could make little changes but too little time for the day to play with it. the BGE forge short block is calling your name George:grin2:
 
#11 ·
Congrats. It 's a proud feeling when you do it yourself. If it wasn't for the silver shock towers the pics look like they came from my camera. Eventually I replaced the air box cover with a 392, rerouted the PCV hose and dressed it up with rocker covers from Steve White. Next on my list is to do something with that plastic intercooler reservoir. A little advice. Next time you change the oil pull the PCV tube off the oil fill neck and plug it before pouring in the oil.
 

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#22 ·
That's what ive noticed, you really have to stomped on the go pedal to hear it. I thought those LMI CAI will open up Maggie like the screaming lady from Kung Fu Hustle. hahaha


]
At 10-12lbs boost I'm sure they get a lot louder! Some day I might get there! :)
 
#26 ·
You're almost there, you dont need a lot of parts with the BGE short block. i wish it's that simple with 5.7 for the swap.


Btw, 12lbs is the max the forge block/rotating assy can take? I know you can make more power with less restriction but 12lbs with stock head?



At 10-12lbs boost I'm sure they get a lot louder! Some day I might get there! :)
 
#19 ·
He speaks softly and carries a big stick ;)

A Guy
 
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#30 ·
this is what i want minus the Kooks headers, using hellcat shorty and mids, want to hear Maggie scream at 12lbs>:).


Luke, 6.4 BGE short block comes painted in black, correct?



6.4 based 392 fully forged short block, stock heads, Hellcat cam, good long tube headers, Kooks, Magnuson syste, approx 11.5 psi and you have reliable lots of driving fun, not quirky, 680 wheel horsepower and 710 ft/lbs

Luke
 
#29 · (Edited)
in my opinion the Magnuson will deliver the best, most reliable, less quirky, best driving fun under 700 whps, after that its too small to deliver much more efficient boost......

the competition typically delivers much more radical, harder to tune power, and tends to have less fun driveability, significantly more quirky.....

if your looking for lots of fun, 700 whps or less the Magnuson 2300 is the perfect system

for over 700 whps the 2650 would be perfect but no kits currently except for Hellcats,
well sort of since Red is getting one, non Hellcat custom built system



then the bigger Whipples or KB would be more suited for radical performance level

the percentage of large horsepower builds are really about 3 to 5 % of the group, any body who thinks a 1000+ horsepower car is a great daily driver has not got a clue, once you pass the 750 whps line, they become hard work, unreliable, and for the most unfun to drive just to drive

my buddy took his 1000hps Challenger SRT on the long haul power tour last year, his wife swore never again, broken down 3 of the 7 days, lots of issues, overheated in traffic etc, and this car is perfect, tons of money spent, the best of nearly everything......

there is a fine line between street car and race car......and once you cross that line, the shear fun of jumping in and driving to the corner store for half gallon of milk is gone

Bigred is streetable, has to, to compete in the Optima series, last year 809 whps, this year over 900, more and more it does not get driven, my wife's kitty cat goes for the fun rides >:)
 
#35 ·
any body who thinks a 1000+ horsepower car is a great daily driver has not got a clue, once you pass the 750 whps line, they become hard work, unreliable, and for the most unfun to drive just to drive

My friend has a 2015 Coyote with a 2.9 Whipple. He's hit 804 at the rear wheels. At 700 something wheel HP the

factory block split in half. He ordered an iron skirted block.. Then just at the end of last year he texts me "Hey you
ever seen this?" and it was a photo of his ballancer laying down in the K member. He sheared off the end of the

crank shaft cleanly... He's running something like 14Lbs on that 2.9. He just had the block redone *again* and now
it's running a billet chromolly crank in addition to the billet rods and slugs it already had. He is is now going to step
up to the newest 3. something liter case from Whipple. I'm sure more stuff will break... he already has a 2K HP

built stick transmission, aftermarket driveshaft, frame ties, suspension pieces Strange axles (which he bent....)

I wouldn't want ANY of that!
 

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#34 ·
Hey! Alright! >:)

Text Line Font Number Screenshot


A Guy
 
#36 ·
Oh hey while I'm in here.... Luke,



Do you sell replacement bearings for the billet idler pulleys for the 6.4 SC Kit? I think one of my bearings is going
south. I guess I can pull them out and go to bearings inc and just get new bearings but I figured I'd ask!
 
#40 ·
You can get brand new pulleys from magnuson direct for 35 bucks each. Black anodized and ready to go. Not worth trying to press out the 20 bearings for that. I got part numbers if you want them



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#41 ·
I can send you a pic of that also. I got a spare. Think they are around 100 bucks
It bolts two bolts to the snout. 1 to the top water pump bolt. Old style before they went to the 2 bolt unit.


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#44 ·
Pulleys from magnuson for $35? More like $70-$80 and I believe they are steel not aluminum.
https://www.magnusonsuperchargers.com/category-s/120.htm

I buy mine from Smoothflowpulleys for $60. He will even machine custom offsets if asked. Yeah they are not anodize aluminum but I polish them up with some mother's and call it a day.
Smoothflow Pulleys
We were talking about the idler pulleys not the snout pulley. That may be where the price difference is. And yes the
snout pulley is steel, the idlers are aluminum. Thanks for the link! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
#48 ·
As promised



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