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Making progress, no more wheel hop,0-60 mph dropping

4K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  enemy 
#1 ·
Thought I would post up what I did to eliminate wheel hop and improve traction.2015 SRT 392

With stock suspension and wore down stock size 275 40 20 Sumitomo tires with a tread wear of 500 and 28 psi cold air pressure I was able to manage a 4.4 0-60 mph run, one time and one time only with massive wheel hop on very good concrete. Other attempts I had failed to achieve this number again. No matter what road I tried 0-60 mph runs on I always had wheel hop and slower 0-60 times.

I installed v6 springs up front and took off sway bar. Of course this didn't help wheel hop but it was part of a larger picture.

Next I did several changes to the rear all at once, I installed camber bushing to straighten up rear tires for better contact patch, cut 1/2 coil to increase spring rate to help drive the tires into the ground, which also lowers the car 1/2" to put a little more weight on the rear tires naturally just because of the lower stance, I installed BMR lower trailing arms, and I built my own version of the Hop Not kit and got the rear cradle solid with the body.

At this point wheel hop was gone, but I had small amount of chatter in the rear end like something was still not totally solid.Thinking the rear dif was bouncing still.

I installed the differential brace and with 33 psi in the same tires, I was able to crack first time out 4.3 0-60 mph at the same spot as before on really good concrete and had no wheel hop and the rear end felt planted and chatter was gone, it was still a spinning 4.3 second run, but the wheel hop was gone.

Knowing I was able to crack a 4.3 just like that first time, I know what I did helped in many ways.

Now I need to get everything aligned and try with lower air pressure as my baseline, I feel I can improve on the 4.3 where as before the 4.4 run in baseline was a hero run which I was never ever was able to repeat. Now I have passed that with ease.

So these changes really made a difference. Can't wait to get car aligned and air down the rear tires and give it a few more try's to see what it will do, then put on my 295 40 20 tires (which have a 460 tread wear rating) and see how much more I will drive down the 0-60 runs.

I just wanted to show, what can be accomplished working on the suspension. When the suspension is better, it even helps with any tire.
 
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#3 ·
Took the car out with lower air pressure 28 cold psi, did some 4.3,4.4, 4.5, 4.6.....all spinning runs...I do know the work on suspension made everything better, pulling numbers around 4.3 and 4.4 where that was not happening before.

Did a couple of small burn outs, the rubber coming off my tires are pretty dry, the rubber won't even stick together, so I'm working with tires that are pretty dry. Reminds me of old dry slicks, just leaves powder behind. I'm still going to tinker, before I swap tires like to see if I can't dig out a 4.2 on these crap tires, I still need to do the alignment and air down the tires more for this new suspension set up, the 28 psi cold was for the stock suspension when I set it for best contact patch, it may be a little different now, find best psi now. Just want to be fair for the comparison, cause right now all this work is just showing .10 second difference in the 0-60 runs, making it easier to run near the ability of the cars tires and of course having the wheel hop gone.
 
#4 ·
Next I did several changes to the rear all at once, I installed camber bushing to straighten up rear tires for better contact patch, cut 1/2 coil to increase spring rate to help drive the tires into the ground, which also lowers the car 1/2" to put a little more weight on the rear tires naturally just because of the lower stance, I installed BMR lower trailing arms, and I built my own version of the Hop Not kit and got the rear cradle solid with the body.
This is EXTREMELY interesting to me, when my car wheel hops it feels like the dang thing is gonna rip itself apart!!!
A couple of questions if you don't mind sharing info...first, installing the camber bushing to straighten up the rear tires...would that affect tire wear on a DD?
Next, can you elaborate on the version of the Hop Not kit you built??
Thanks!!!
 
#6 ·
Straightening the tires up make the tire wear better, like the solid axles that allow the tire to be true to the road. Camber, make that neg. camber eats up the inside of the tire and the outside of the tire is lifted off the road. Camber is for corning to set up the tire to be flat when it's in a turn.

I'm setting my tire up to be flat going in a straight line, careless about cornering hard. basically set up the rear end like a live axle(solid axle). people go ape zhit if you remove camber, look at all the years it was never there and all the road course cars that never had it. yes camber is good for extreme cornering but not needed for what I'm doing or even daily driving, I would be more than happy to have a live axle in the challenger for drag racing and scrap this IRS system.



here's the link to what I did for the hop not kit. with pics


https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f18/my-version-hopnot-kit-no-cost-me-easy-do-660887/
 
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#8 ·
Car drives just fine to me, I'm not a cornering kind of guy, I just drive my car normal, there are millions of cars with no rear camber driven every day and even tracked on road courses,so it's no big deal. when I get on it for straight line action I want the car to hook and go. I have had the car past 150 a few times and all seems well, it goes just fine.

growing up front sway bar and a/c was some of the first things to go on a car, I have traveled well over 160 mph in the past in old camaro's with bbc's up front, no sway bars, no rear camber, car with sbc front springs, traction bars in the back and such, car ready for 1/4 mile action. how do you think a car handles when they blast down the 1/4 mile at 150 mph and they are set up for drag racing. they seem to stop well, handle fine and they make the turn down at the end of the track and they drive thru the pits, some of these cars are driven thousands of miles during drag week.

Little changes I made to my car is nothing. unless your racing around a tight circle and want to brag about how many g's you just pulled. Normally no body cares, everyone wants to know how fast is it. So I make a few changes to help me out when I go to the drags.

It sure drives better than my 1980 camaro, now that thing scares me a little at high speeds. Challenger is smooth as silk compared to that beast.
 

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#7 ·
It’s good to see someone putting some money and time into true suspension work. Lots of people do it as an afterthought.
I installed the hopnot system, all new rear control arms from spohn, rear drag shocks, front coilovers set to basically 90/10 valving and pulled the front swaybar/links. The car launched night and day different at the track. If I do spin off the line (rare), then it’s true spinning not wheel hopping.
Also dailys just fine.
I was also thinking about getting some rear camber bushings to square up the rear.
Good job on all your work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
Thanks, I'm glade you get it. I was accused of all the work as being a placebo effect and basically I just need drag radials to cure everything. Pretty much saying it's all a waste of time and results in nothing. That comes from a person on this site. So sad.

I just wanted to show doing some suspension work helps, using some common drag strip "moves" if you will to the car, like the old fashion v6 springs in a v8 to help with front lift. I'm stuck with the my struts since they are connected to the computer system. So I do envy you having 90/10 struts.

The rear cradle is sure soft and loose, I'm not sure why this isn't fixed more often by folks, what a mess to see a factory cradle move like an inch up and down. Making it solid to the body how is this a placebo effect, holly cow.

I do know I still have some thumping from the rear differential, I can hear it during acceleration when I'm coasting, I'm pretty sure those two large bushing on the front of the diff allow that dif to move up and down, and when I'm coasting and get into the gas I hear the thump. I will see what I can do with that maybe make some washers and make them solid like I did the cradle. Now that I have the differential brace on the rear, this pretty much make a pivot point on that diff so I can imagine that thing is flopping under my car. Of course fixing it won't help nothing right? I just need drag radials to fix the thumping.:lol:
 
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