I have a 2014 manual Challenger RT and my differential just went out, I have a 3.92 ratio. I’ve been looking for a replacement and notice that there are SRT8s with a 3.92 gear ratio as well, I’ve notice they are automatics, I was wondering if it would work? And if it’s better that the RT? Should I get one from an SRT8 or one from an RT?
I've not seen the 3.92 in an automatic from the factory. With the way the auto is geared (which is why the 3.06) she would be screaming on the highway.
The SRTs with A5 automatic up thru 2014 used a 3.06 ratio. The 3.92 on Challenger was only used on M6 cars with 20 inch wheels, M6 cars with 18 inch wheels used a 3.73 ratio.
The only cars to use an A5 with a 3.92 far as I know was the 2011 Mopar 11 Charger and the 2012 Mopar 12 Chrysler 300.
The SRTs with A5 automatic up thru 2014 used a 3.06 ratio. The 3.92 on Challenger was only used on M6 cars with 20 inch wheels, M6 cars with 18 inch wheels used a 3.73 ratio.
The only cars to use an A5 with a 3.92 far as I know was the 2011 Mopar 11 Charger and the 2012 Mopar 12 Chrysler 300.
Yes you are right, those are the cars I’ve seen, but will the differential from those cars (300 and charger) work for the manual challenger? Would they be stronger since they are for SRT8? I’ve checked at some junk yards and they told me they were different that didn’t didn’t interchange.
believe my diff just went out too on my 2012 m6 rt with a whipple, what were your symptoms/ how do you know its blown. mine has severe whine and clunking under any load. the whine drowns out my radio and whipple.
I have a 2014 manual Challenger RT and my differential just went out, I have a 3.92 ratio. I’ve been looking for a replacement and notice that there are SRT8s with a 3.92 gear ratio as well, I’ve notice they are automatics, I was wondering if it would work? And if it’s better that the RT? Should I get one from an SRT8 or one from an RT?
believe my diff just went out too on my 2012 m6 rt with a whipple, what were your symptoms/ how do you know its blown. mine has severe whine and clunking under any load. the whine drowns out my radio and whipple.
After a small burn out, I heard a click and the car wouldn’t move forward or backwards at all in any gear. I do hear a winding noise, which is my driveshaft and I can see it spin when I put it in gear and accelerate, but the tires won’t move so I’m assuming my differential is bad, I drained the oil today but didn’t see any metal shavings. But I am going to take a closer look tomorrow to confirm tho.
After a small burn out, I heard a click and the car wouldn’t move forward or backwards at all in any gear. I do hear a winding noise, which is my driveshaft and I can see it spin when I put it in gear and accelerate, but the tires won’t move so I’m assuming my differential is bad, I drained the oil today but didn’t see any metal shavings. But I am going to take a closer look tomorrow to confirm tho.
If you are not seeing metal in the diff oil, and the prop-shaft and half-shafts aren't flopping around but visibly spinning...then it could be a bad CV joint or a spline is wiped out. :dunno:
Well it turns out that my passenger side driveshaft just came out of the differential because it’s bend on one side, I push it in and car runs good again, I’m still going to replace it with a new (used one) for $150 new axle is about 500, I found a Used differential for about 400, if there is a local lkq/keystone automotive in your city I believe they can ship it there for free, but give them a call for more info if you’re interested *1 (800) 525-3667
I think mine is finally starting to go as well, if i order the new 3.9 will i need new axels or anything else?
Going in a 2013 m6 RT with 3.73.
In earlier posts you guys mentioned bad clutch packs in the LSD being a possible fail point, if i just swap out pumpkins all of that is new again or is that a separate repair?
Id hate to do all of that work and see the issue still.
The only other option i can see is aftermarket 4.29 gears, but i believe that would require a full rebuild of the current housing, has anyone mulled this option instead of just removing and replacing with OE?
Swapping a 3.7 for a 3.9 should require no other parts except for new diff mounting bolts (per the FSM). Since you have a manual, should not require any tune update for gearing either.
In earlier posts you guys mentioned bad clutch packs in the LSD being a possible fail point, if i just swap out pumpkins all of that is new again or is that a separate repair?
The only other option i can see is aftermarket 4.29 gears, but i believe that would require a full rebuild of the current housing, has anyone mulled this option instead of just removing and replacing with OE?
I have looked into this. 2 issues
Nobody talked about them. They do for driveshaft shop and gforce. Nothing on this place.
The bigger issue is they don’t sell a driveshaft for it. So you spend 8 grand for a rear end and axles and then still have to have a custom driveshaft made for it by the driveshaft shop anyway.
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