Engine removal 5.7 RT? - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
Drivetrain In this section, you can post up anything in regards to the transmission, differential, etc.

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Engine removal 5.7 RT?

Which is the easiest way to remove the engine from a rt with a 6 speed? Remove the trans and then out the top with the engine, or remove the carriage and take the engine and trans out the bottom as one unit? I have a lift so the latter of the 2 options is possible. Just need to know what is quickest and easiest. Thanks for any input.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 03:00 PM
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09 - Engine, 5.7L/Removal

REMOVAL

Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure



Special Tools: Click to display a list of tools used in this procedure

Click here to launch the form to order any tools you need.

8984B - Engine Lift Fixture

Originally Shipped In Kit Number(s) 8849CC, 9329, 9515, 9516, 9518, 9519, 9540, 9541, 9577.8984-UPD - Adapter, Engine Lift

Originally Shipped In Kit Number(s) 9516, 9516-CAN, 9517, 9517-CAN, 9518, 9519.


1.Remove the hood (Refer to 23 - Body/Hood/HOOD - Removal) .2.Remove the cowl top panel (2) (Refer to 23 - Body/Exterior/COVER, Cowl Panel - Removal) .3.Remove the strut tower support (6).


4.Remove the engine covers (1).5.Perform the fuel system pressure release procedure (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure) .


6.Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable (3).


7.Disconnect the make up air hose.8.Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector.9.Remove the air cleaner housing (1) and clean air tube (2).



CAUTION:Do not let the tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position, sever damage may occur to the tensioner.
10.Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner (7) counterclockwise until it contacts it's stop and remove the accessory drive belt (4), then slowly rotate the tensioner into the freearm position. 11.Remove the cooling fan (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Engine/FAN, Cooling - Removal) .


12.Remove the A/C compressor (3) (Refer to 24 - Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing/COMPRESSOR, A/C - Removal) .


13.Remove the nut (1) from the front section of the A/C liquid line (2) to the rear section of the liquid line (3), separate the lines, remove and discard the dual plane seal.14.Install plugs or tape over the opened liquid line fittings.15.Remove the front section of the A/C liquid line from the engine compartment.


16.Remove the nut (1) from the front section of the A/C suction line (2) to the rear section of the suction line (3), separate the lines, remove and discard the dual plane seal.17.Install plugs or tape over the opened suction line fittings.18.Remove the front section of the A/C suction line from the engine compartment.


19.Remove the engine mount heat shield retaining bolt (2) and heat shield (1).


20.Remove the generator (2) and support bracket (1) (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8F - Engine Systems/Charging/GENERATOR - Removal) .




NOTE:It is not necessary to disconnect power steering pump hoses from power steering pump for power steering pump removal.21.Remove the three power steering pump (1) mounting bolts (2) through the access holes in the pulley and position the pump aside.


22.Raise and support the vehicle.23.Remove the belly pan (2).24.Drain the engine oil.25.Drain the cooling system (Refer to 07 - Cooling - Standard Procedure) .


26.Remove lower radiator hose (1).



NOTE:Two knock sensors are used. Each sensor is bolted to the outside of cylinder block below the exhaust manifold.27.Remove the right and left knock sensor electrical connectors.



NOTE:The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is located at the right-rear side of the engine block.28.Remove the CKP sensor electrical connector (1).29.Remove the oil temperature sensor electrical connector.30.Remove the oil pressure sensor electrical connector.31.Lower the vehicle.


32.Remove upper radiator hose (2).


33.Disconnect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor electrical connector (4).


34.Remove the heater hoses (1,2).


35.Remove all ignition coil electrical connectors (1).36.Remove all fuel injector electrical connectors.



NOTE:The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (3) is mounted into the top rear of the intake manifold near the cowl hood seal (1).37.Disconnect the MAP sensor electrical connector by sliding release lock out (1) and pressing down on the lock tab (2).


38.Remove the coolant temperature sensor (3) electrical connector (2).



NOTE:The ignition capacitor (2) is attached to the left rear corner of the intake manifold (3).39.Remove the ignition capacitor (2) electrical connector (1).



NOTE:Remove the intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly.40.Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal) .41.Remove the ground wires from the rear of each cylinder head.42.Remove the right and left side engine wiring harness and position aside.


43.Raise and support the vehicle.44.Remove the front engine mount nuts (1,2).45.Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from their retainers at the oil pan.



CAUTION:When separating the catalytic converters from the manifolds, disconnect the oxygen sensor connectors. Allowing the catalytic converters hanging from the oxygen sensor wires damages the harness and/or sensors.
46.Disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connectors (2).47.Saturate all exhaust bolts and nuts with Mopar® Rust Penetrant and allow five minutes for penetration.48.Remove the exhaust pipe to manifold bolts (3) and separate the exhaust pipes (4) from the exhaust manifolds.


49.Remove the starter motor (1) heat shield (4).50.Disconnect the starter wires, remove the starter motor retaining bolts (2) and remove the starter (1) (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8F - Engine Systems/Starting/STARTER - Removal) .


51.Remove the inspection cover (1).


52.Manual transmission equipped vehicles, remove the transmission (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Manual - Removal).


53.Automatic transmission equipped vehicles, rotate the crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts (1) are accessible and remove the flexplate to converter bolts (1).


54.Remove the oil pan to transmission bolts (1).


55.Remove the transmission bell housing to engine block bolts (2).


56.Lower the vehicle.57.Remove the left coolant tube.
NOTE:Do not use air tools to install engine lift fixture.58.Install the engine lift fixture 8984B (2) and adapter 8984-UPD (4).59.Using a suitable engine hoist, separate the engine from the transmission and remove the engine from the vehicle.60.Install the engine assembly on a suitable repair stand.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-13-2012, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, Thanks!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 08:50 AM
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Assuming you don't have a lift, pull the trans back and then you can take it out through the top.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2012, 12:18 PM
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stevewhiteparts,
Is your procedure from the service manual that customers can purchase?
Thanks!

2010 Challenger R/T Classic: Performance Mods JMB CAI, Solo Cat-Back Exhaust, 176°F Thermostat, Canned Tune, Eibach Pro Springs
Appearance Mods Scat Pack Bee Decals, Rear Spoiler Blackout Decal, R/T Center Caps, R/T Front Emblem

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 11:19 PM
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Engine removal 5.7 RT?

I know I'm bringing this back from the dead but Is it possible to leave the ac compressor hooked up to the refrigerant lines when pulling from the top? I really don't want to have to evacuate and recharge my ac if I don't have to.


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2014 Challenger R/T 6speed, 392 SRT8 Motor Swap, Comp274vvt cam, Stock Eagle heads (unfortunately), 180degree thermostat, bt catch can, Kooks 1 7/8 Long tube Headers with catless mids, Pypes racepro 3in srt cat back exhaust, modern muscle 85mm throttle body, SLP 25% underdrive balancer, and Diablo sport Trinity with OST DYNO custom CMR tune.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin14 View Post
I know I'm bringing this back from the dead but Is it possible to leave the ac compressor hooked up to the refrigerant lines when pulling from the top? I really don't want to have to evacuate and recharge my ac if I don't have to.
That's funny that was the first question that came to mind while I was reading this as well. I would assume you can just unbolt the compressor from the motor and push it to the side with lines still connected?? Maybe hang it from something with a zip tie if necessary??

2013 Challenger R/T 6 speed with SRT Headers/Mids, Dynomax VT mufflers & Reso delete, AEM drop in filter, Lowered 2" all around.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin14 View Post
I know I'm bringing this back from the dead but Is it possible to leave the ac compressor hooked up to the refrigerant lines when pulling from the top? I really don't want to have to evacuate and recharge my ac if I don't have to.
Yes, leave the compressor in the chassis. Wire tie it to side out of the way. Great instructions for removal by SW
Myself, I drop the motor out the bottom of the car onto a metal table and lift the car off the motor.
Must use a car lift though. 3 hours out, 5 hrs in. 2hr misc on top of the motor hook up. For me, cause Ive done a few. Shop I play at charges 1250.00 out and in. R&R
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 06:53 AM
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We always drop from the bottom as a complete unit saves a bunch of time.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-07-2015, 11:55 AM
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Well here's the progress so far. I got the motor out fairly easily during my week off. Pulling the motor took maybe 5 hours tops. Mike and his son at OST dyno just finished assembling the 392 and I'll be picking it up on the 13th. Then I'm dropping it back in and getting it tuned. I can't wait for it to be done

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Hello 392
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Bye bye 5.7
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