Crankshaft position sensor code - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Crankshaft position sensor code

2012 RT 5.7 M6

Check engine light came on when I started up. Car seems to run fine. Had the code read: P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

Any thoughts about what I'm up against? Is this something I should address immediately? Also wondering if its something I should take to the dealer or would I be ok going with a friendly local shop. Hopefully it isn't a major repair. Of course, I had an aftermarket warranty expire 3 weeks ago...

Thanks

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spun bearing View Post
2012 RT 5.7 M6


Check engine light came on when I started up. Car seems to run fine. Had the code read: P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction


Any thoughts about what I'm up against? Is this something I should address immediately? Hopefully it isn't a major repair. Of course, I had an aftermarket warranty expire 3 weeks ago...



Thanks

If the sensor fails the engine will not start or run. The engine controller will have no way of knowing when to trigger a fuel injector pulse or a spark.


That the engine didn't manifest any signs of any distress the problem could be due to a bit of corrosion at the sensor/wiring harness connector.



A disconnect of the sensor at the wiring harness connector followed by a connect could be all it takes to "fix" this. This disconnect/connect removes the bit of surface corrosion and improves the electrical and signal connection of the sensor. With another car years ago I had a camshaft position sensor trip a CEL a few times over a span of a year or so and I finally disconnected the sensor from the wiring harness connector then connected it again and the CEL never came back.


Be sure you handle the connectors with care. Do *not* tug on any wires. Often the connectors are held together by something more than just friction, a latch or catch that has to be released before you can pull the connectors apart.



Use no cleaner on the exposed connectors. The connection is not dirty, or at least shouldn't be dirty, it has just developed a bit of surface corrosion. And avoid touching either connector. A static discharge into the sensor connector could zap the sensor. A static discharge into the wiring harness connector could zap the engine controller.


Be sure you fully insert the sensor connector into the wiring harness connector and if there is a latch/catch it latches to keep the sensor connector from wiggling loose.



If the problem comes back you might consider replacing the sensor before it fails. The sensor wants to be installed correctly. It doesn't want to be too close to or to far away from the toothed wheel that it senses as the engine runs and from this sends the signal the engine controller processes to know when to inject fuel and trigger spark and count and possible flag misfires.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all those details, that helps me understand the situation a little better. I wish this was something I had time to deal with myself, it seems like something doable unfortunately there aren't enough hours in my day. But at least it sounds like you think it might not be a critical emergency.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 08:40 PM
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Or you could just go to the online chilton's manual, link available in the thread below, and do a search for P0335. It gives a complete diagnostic walkthru so you can trackdown your problem.

https://www.challengertalk.com/forum...access-666787/

Possible Causes
5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE CKP SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT
5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
CKP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CKP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
CKP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO THE CKP SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT
CKP SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
CKP SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR MOUNTED INCORRECTLY OR MOUNTING SURFACE DAMAGED
TARGET WHEEL/PULSE RING BENT / BROKEN / MISSING TEETH / EXCESSIVE RUNOUT
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)

BTW I checked the to see if there may be a technical service bulletin and there isn't one for the crankshaft position sensor but there is one for the camshaft sensor P0340 which applies to 2011-2012 5.7 M6 challengers. It basically involves a PCM reflash.

MODELS:
2011 - 2012 (LC) Challenger
NOTE:
This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine (sales code
EZC) or 6.4L engine (sales code ESH) and equipped with a 6 Speed manual
transmission (sales code DEC).
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 18-010-13.pdf (112.1 KB, 4 views)


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spun bearing View Post
Thanks for all those details, that helps me understand the situation a little better. I wish this was something I had time to deal with myself, it seems like something doable unfortunately there aren't enough hours in my day. But at least it sounds like you think it might not be a critical emergency.

Not necessarily.


That the engine manifested no signs of distress when the CEL appeared -- nor before or after -- suggests the sensor is not failing, that the problem is a bit of surface corrosion that interferes with the strength of the signal from the sensor. The signal is still strong enough to be used by the engine controller.


As I mentioned a disconnect/connect can resurrect a sensor affected by some minor surface corrosion.


But there is no guarantee the sensor is not manifesting the early signs of failure. The real authority on this would be a Dodge tech who I'm sure knows via training and experience what you experienced means and what to do about it.


As an aside, I prefer to not leave things to chance. I demand reliability from my vehicles. I get in my car and turn the key I want the engine to start, run without any issues, and the car to get me to my destination with no drama. I thus treat my cars in such a way to (generally) avoid a situation in which the engine does not start.


Now I admit I did tolerate for too long an intermittent clutch interlock switch on my Boxster that chose real late at night after I had taken a cab ride 30+ miles to pick up the car at a closed dealer -- I had left the car when I bought another Porsche earlier in the day -- to absolutely not allow the engine to start. And of course with my luck I felt the onset of food poisoning towards the end of the cab ride so when I got out of the cab I was feeling pretty darn sick and stuck in a rather desolate section area of Fremont CA at nearly midnight with no cab, no working car, and feeling like I was about to spew everything I had eaten that day.


This reminded me why I (generally, and it should be *always*) take care of these things before they become worse and generally at the worst time possible. Fortunately the engine started upon the last desperate last ditch attempt to start the car before I succumbed to what I felt would my demise I was so sick. As soon as the engine caught and ran I made a mad dash to a not too distant hotel and spent the next hour or so bent over a toilet dealing with the effects of I guess food poisoning. The hotel clerk even came in he was concerned about me. I had left the car parked in the entrance drive just outside the main doors and rushed in and headed straight to the bathroom off the lobby.



Between bouts of intense nausea I thought I might have to get a room I would be too sick to drive home, but fortunately I recovered sufficiently to make my way home.



It is up to you but my advice is to run the situation by a Dodge tech and listen to what he recommends you do.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spun bearing View Post
2012 RT 5.7 M6

Check engine light came on when I started up. Car seems to run fine. Had the code read: P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

Any thoughts about what I'm up against? Is this something I should address immediately? Also wondering if its something I should take to the dealer or would I be ok going with a friendly local shop. Hopefully it isn't a major repair. Of course, I had an aftermarket warranty expire 3 weeks ago...

Thanks
How many miles on the car?

If the sensor itself requires replacement, the starter will have to be removed, as it is mounted on the engine over the CCK sensor so that it covers it completely. Removing the starter isn't terribly difficult, but it does require some extra time and effort above and beyond what replacement of an engine-mounted sensor usually requires. As a result, any bill you have for the work to be done by someone else will likely be higher than expected due to the extra labor involved.

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Thanks again for the responses. The car has about 45k miles on it.

Interestingly, the light did not come on today when I got in to drive it. I had an appt at the dealer but canceled. This has happened with a couple other warning lights and the dealer has previously said they can't really diagnose it unless the light is on when I bring it in. For that matter I'm not sure what I could do either. If I go to the effort to remove the starter and clean the contacts on the sensor now as was suggested, I still won't know if that was the really cause because the light is already off...

Thankfully I don't currently have food poisoning at a random hotel in Fremont, although I did purchase this Challenger at a dealership likely in close proximity to that location. Two cars purchased in Fremont with questionable crankshaft position sensors... Coincidence ?!?

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 12:28 AM
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MC Hammer used to live in Fremont...probably unrelated



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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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MC Hammer used to live in Fremont...probably unrelated

Good point, I had't thought of that but I don't think we know enough yet to rule anything out...
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spun bearing View Post
Thanks again for the responses. The car has about 45k miles on it.

Interestingly, the light did not come on today when I got in to drive it. I had an appt at the dealer but canceled. This has happened with a couple other warning lights and the dealer has previously said they can't really diagnose it unless the light is on when I bring it in. For that matter I'm not sure what I could do either. If I go to the effort to remove the starter and clean the contacts on the sensor now as was suggested, I still won't know if that was the really cause because the light is already off...

Thankfully I don't currently have food poisoning at a random hotel in Fremont, although I did purchase this Challenger at a dealership likely in close proximity to that location. Two cars purchased in Fremont with questionable crankshaft position sensors... Coincidence ?!?
Fremont has been good and bad (sort of) to me. I got my first high tech job at a company in Fremont. Contacts I made there have helped me remain employed, with very few and thankfully brief breaks, and after 30 years in the business high tech has been very good to me and continues to be good to me. There was the food poisoning I mentioned but I didn't eat in Fremont I just went there to pick up my Boxster from the Porsche dealer.

I bought my 996 Turbo from a Porsche dealer in Fremont -- which was how my Boxster ended up there and why I had to go get it. The Turbo was a sweet car but 2 weeks later outside of Ely NV I hit a mule deer with the Turbo. 'course, like the food poisoning Fremont had nothing to do with the mule deer. I know I felt sicker after I hit the mule deer than I did from food poisoning.

Normally I would advise you carefully work the crankshaft position sensor connector to remove any surface corrosion and see if this eliminated the CEL and error code. While the CEL is not on in my case working the connector of the camshaft position sensor eliminated the intermittent and infrequent CEL. 'course, it took some time with the CEL not making an appearance to convince me my effort was not in vain.

But because in the case of your car the sensor and its connector are hard to get to it might be better to if the CEL comes on again to read the code -- but do *not* clear it! -- and if it is associated with a crankshaft position sensor: You can look up the code or codes online and be sure you read the freeze frame data this will contain the code that triggered the CEL; to take the car in and have the dealer service department read the code and confirm and then do what needs to be done.
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