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I just replaced all four rotors (and brake pads) on the Bacon Hauler, and I had to do a bunch of research just to make sure I got the correct sized rotors for my particular application (cop brakes are a strange animal; bigger than most but not as big as some, blah, blah, blah). Anyway, I learned a couple things that may of use:
1) the majority of rotors for sale at local auto parts stores are made by just a few companies, despite what name they might be sold under locally.
2) there is a general consensus among self-proclaimed learned individuals on the internet that there is a definite difference between the various levels of rotors in each company's product line, i.e. you really do get what you pay for with brake rotors.
3) it is easier to increase brake system performance by going larger and keeping the fluid fresh than it is by spending more money on the same size and running old/dirty fluid.
The first one up there will come into play if you're shopping around to compare prices. There are a hundred different brands, but if you pay close attention to the part numbers, you'll see some repeating patterns that can be used to identify the equivalent rotor lines between each brand. They'll have nearly identical part numbers, differing by some prefix of 2 or 3 letters only usually.
The second one is a conclusion I reached after reading a heck of a lot of posts on the topic among several different forums. As a general rule, you can assign relative quality among rotors just like they are grouped on RockAuto's website - the Economy line is cheap and most likely to warp or have out of spec runout right out of the box. Daily Drivers are a little better, and so on.
The third is pretty self-explanatory. If you are after a true increase in braking system performance (shorter distance, longer to fade from heat, etc.), increasing the size of the rotors (and pads if necessary) and the number of pistons per caliper is the best way to do it. A more expensive and even higher quality rotor in the same size will not yield as much of an improved performance as going larger.
And no matter what, keeping the fluid changed at the recommended interval is absolutely imperative to an optimally operating braking system, there's no two ways about that one. It doesn't matter if you run DOT3 or DOT4, running fresh is what matters most.
And that's about it. I realize i didn't do much in the way of answering your specific questions, but i don't really have any answers for them. But i did have the info above and figured it could be useful enough to go ahead and post it.
Good luck with the brakes!
2012 Charger R/T with Pursuit pkg. (2018 - ?)
-- The Bacon Hauler
2010 Challenger Rallye Redline (2015 - 2018)
2011 Challenger Toxic Orange SE (2011 - 2014)