Let's talk 100k + - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Let's talk 100k +

Challengers with over 100,000 miles. How are we holding up? I have plenty of early posts with numerous issues pre 100k. Knock on wood, I'm nearing 149k and have only replaced one ABS wheel speed sensor since my 8 year/120k warranty expired. Hoping to roll past 200k with nothing major since I've paid my dues early on haha.

'10 Challenger R/T Classic
Flowmaster Force II cat back, K&N branded CAI with Amsoil dry synthetic filter, Diablo Predator 91 CAI tune,
Mopar '11+ IAT sensor, Mopar hood struts, RPI stealth guards, R/T spoiler emblem



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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:06 PM
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I just rolled over a 110k miles on my 2009 RT. I got screwed by the Dodge star case issue on my tremec transmission at around 70k. Couldn't have been happier with the results after the transmission rebuild, Hurst linkage with g&k mods, and Hurst shifter.
Besides that, just brakes and a new battery after 9 years.

Cheers!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72/340 View Post
Challengers with over 100,000 miles. How are we holding up? I have plenty of early posts with numerous issues pre 100k. Knock on wood, I'm nearing 149k and have only replaced one ABS wheel speed sensor since my 8 year/120k warranty expired. Hoping to roll past 200k with nothing major since I've paid my dues early on haha.

2009 R/T Deep Water Blue 6-Speed (Only 450 made in this trim in 2009)
20" Foose Legend Wheels and HD Brakes
Drilled and Slotted Rotors with Ceramic Pads
Hurst Linkage w/ G & K Mods and Hurst Pistol Grip Shifter
Lowered 1.7" with Eibach Springs and Sway Bars
Blue BT Catch Can-K&N Air Intake-Cabin Air Filter
Mopar Exhaust Tips,Caps,Front Badge,Steering Wheel,and Fuel Door Insert
Caliper Covers, Polished Stainless Steel Under the Hood
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:52 PM
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I have had my '10 RT for about 6 months now and its got 104k miles on it. So far in that time I've needed to replace 2 TPM sensors that died and another is on the way out and an alternator. I replaced 4 O2 sensors, all the plugs, replaced an overly loud catback with a stock system, an air filter and 2 tires as maintenance stuff. Noting too major yet although the alternator was sudden and unplanned lol.

Brian
2010 Plum Crazy Challenger RT A5

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:56 AM
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My 2011 SRT8 A5 just getting ready to turn over 139K.

at 130 I had a lifter fail and wiped out the cam....that sucked, replaced with better parts and eliminated MDS

I have done one front and one rear ABS sensor

My factory remote start and heat seats stopped working in the 120K range.

water pump went at like 125, and I replaced it with a crap knockoff that failed a year and a half later, but that one is on me.

Consumes little or no oil, still gets decent mileage for no more MDS, puts down 472 at the wheels with the mods on it, whole bottom end is still stock, 6 speed cam, upgraded lifters, MDS delete, decked the heads and replaced the seals while the heads were off.

Figure if anything, trans will likely be next.....and I need to start on upgrading and replacing some suspension bits.

"If Brute force is not working for you, you are not using nearly enough"
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenchMarkVII View Post
My 2011 SRT8 A5 just getting ready to turn over 139K.

at 130 I had a lifter fail and wiped out the cam....that sucked, replaced with better parts and eliminated MDS

I have done one front and one rear ABS sensor

My factory remote start and heat seats stopped working in the 120K range.

water pump went at like 125, and I replaced it with a crap knockoff that failed a year and a half later, but that one is on me.

Consumes little or no oil, still gets decent mileage for no more MDS, puts down 472 at the wheels with the mods on it, whole bottom end is still stock, 6 speed cam, upgraded lifters, MDS delete, decked the heads and replaced the seals while the heads were off.

Figure if anything, trans will likely be next.....and I need to start on upgrading and replacing some suspension bits.
In regards to your remote start not working, if you have any DTC it will not work but another common cause is the hood pin switch might be bad...just a thought.


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2015 Challenger RT+ (non-STP)
8lb Magnuson w/ Innovate PSB-1 wideband/boost/shift light gauge
Corsa extreme (2.5")
4" Aluminum one-piece driveshaft
Hellcat bottom airbox
Stainless Works LT headers (2" primaries)
Barton shifter assembly w/ Lou's short shaft and Speed Dawg knob
Comp Cam 7929 & 7748 push rods (gives slightly more lifter preload)
A2speed aluminum coil and valve covers (built in catchcan)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:26 PM
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No DTCs and tried the hood switch, onlything on the canbus is lost connection with heated seat module


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Originally Posted by ChallyTatum View Post
In regards to your remote start not working, if you have any DTC it will not work but another common cause is the hood pin switch might be bad...just a thought.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenchMarkVII View Post
No DTCs and tried the hood switch, onlything on the canbus is lost connection with heated seat module
The heated seat module is not listed as an inhibitor of remote start. Could very well be WIN or TIPM related.

The following table below is a list of possible causes for the inoperative Remote Start System. If any of the following conditions exist, the Remote Start System will not work. Use this information as a guide to the diagnosis of the Remote Start System.

ABORT

BATTERY VOLTAGE HIGH

BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW

BRAKE PRESSED

COOLANT TEMPERATURE HIGH

CRANK NO START

DRIVER DOOR AJAR

PASSENGER DOOR AJAR

LEFT REAR DOOR AJAR

RIGHT REAR DOOR AJAR

TRUNK/LIFTGATE AJAR

HOOD AJAR

NO HOOD SWITCH (INOPERATIVE)

FUEL LEVEL LOW

EXCESSIVE GLOW PLUG TIME (DIESEL ONLY)

FAILED COUNTER REACHED (START)

HAZARD LAMPS (SWITCH PRESSED)

IGNITION IN RUN/START

IGNITION NOT IN LOCK

IGNITION SNA (SIGNAL NOT AVAILABLE FROM OTHER MODULE)

INVALID KEY

KEY IN IGNITION

LOW RPM SHUTDOWN

MIL ON

NO AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

NORMAL TIME OUT CUSTOMER ACCESS

NORMAL TIME OUT RUN MODE (15 MINUTES)

NOT CONFIGURED

NOT ENABLED

NOT IN PARK OR NEUTRAL

NOT PROGRAMMED

OIL PRESSURE LOW

PANIC MODE (ACTIVATED)

POWER LOSS

RKE OFF MESSAGE

RPM TOO HIGH (EXCEEDS 2500)

START COUNTER REACHED

VEHICLE SPEED HIGH

VTA ALARMING
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