Persistent Brake Squeal - Page 3 - Dodge Challenger Forum: Challenger & SRT8 Forums
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ugh, I don't normally like to take part in the age-old approach of throwing parts at a problem in the hopes something will fix it, but I'm losing my ever-loving mind on this one.

I can get a remanufactured rear caliper for $100 here locally, and I replace the whole unit, that should either fix the problem or once again rule out that much more than cannot be the problem. Although after that, I don't know what else could even be replaced or fixed to address this squeal...

But do I really want to spend the rest of my weekend messing with the otherwise fully functioning brakes on this car, that is the question...

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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Ugh, I don't normally like to take part in the age-old approach of throwing parts at a problem in the hopes something will fix it, but I'm losing my ever-loving mind on this one.

I can get a remanufactured rear caliper for $100 here locally, and I replace the whole unit, that should either fix the problem or once again rule out that much more than cannot be the problem. Although after that, I don't know what else could even be replaced or fixed to address this squeal...

But do I really want to spend the rest of my weekend messing with the otherwise fully functioning brakes on this car, that is the question...
The answer is "no, I do not." So I shant. I've finally got my stereo system sounding pretty good, so I'm just going to keep it cranked to drown out the brake squeal. The car stops fine, let others deal with the noise, I'll be busy rocking and rolling!
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-20-2019, 05:27 PM
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The answer is "no, I do not." So I shant. I've finally got my stereo system sounding pretty good, so I'm just going to keep it cranked to drown out the brake squeal. The car stops fine, let others deal with the noise, I'll be busy rocking and rolling!


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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 04:33 AM
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A friend of mine who at one time was a rep for a performance brake company once told me that his wife, who happened to have a performance car would often complain that the brakes were squealing, he would take it for a drive (re-bed them!) and give it back to here all quiet again... until next time! His explanation was as they were performance brakes and she was just using the car as a daily driver the brakes were glazing over and just needed to be re bedded to be all good again. Food for thought?


It is just something I have always bared in mind regarding brakes but I don't think this is your problem, that rear caliper needs to be ruled out as the problem, good luck it is a very frustrating problem for you so far.

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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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A friend of mine who at one time was a rep for a performance brake company once told me that his wife, who happened to have a performance car would often complain that the brakes were squealing, he would take it for a drive (re-bed them!) and give it back to here all quiet again... until next time! His explanation was as they were performance brakes and she was just using the car as a daily driver the brakes were glazing over and just needed to be re bedded to be all good again. Food for thought?


It is just something I have always bared in mind regarding brakes but I don't think this is your problem, that rear caliper needs to be ruled out as the problem, good luck it is a very frustrating problem for you so far.
That left rear caliper is likely not long for this earth...I checked my local Mopar parts online store (web front for dealership parts department; why can't they sell the parts from the counter at the same reasonable prices?), and I can get a reman caliper from them for $80 or so. So if I end up replacing that puppy, I'll go with one of those Mopar reman units.

On a more esoteric note though, I've been going over and over this problem in my head all night. I just cannot envision how that caliper (or one of its associated parts) is vibrating at a high frequency and causing the squeal under the conditions in which I hear the sound. I have no doubt it is, I just cannot wrap my mind around how it's doing it. Soooooo, I've got an experiment lined up for the Bacon Hauler's brakes today, and if it goes well, I will not only come away with a better understanding of how those brake components work together to put the Whoa-down on the car, but hopefully I'll also come away with the answer as to what's causing the noise, and thus what needs to be fixed to stop it.

Stay tuned, I'll post up the outcome of the sciences I do today; hopefully they will be good'ner a sum-beech!

(and if no further posts are seen from me, it can be assumed that my sciences went bad and severely injured or killed me, in which case i'm going to need somebody to make sure some good old Jason Boland and the Stragglers is played at my funeral!)
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:36 AM
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I've had a similar issue before. Do you have the CRC antisqueal spray or squeeze bottle? The spray works much better. You can spray the entire back sides of the pads, let them sit for 10 minutes and your good to go.

I have also had issues with replacement shims that came with new pads. Try swapping back to your stock shims and see if that fixes it.

Also check the pads and surface area of the rotors to see if there is any unusual spots. Sometimes brake pads have a small chunk of compound that didn't get grinded down properly.

Lastly and most importantly.. Bed the shit out of the pads. Get those puppy's hot and then ride around without stopping so they can cool. You need to get the pads to transfer material to the rotors.

Side note - Rock auto sells Wagner brake rotors for our cars. They are cheap and very high quality. They also are painted black on the inside and look better than stock. May be worth looking into..

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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 09:23 AM
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Excessively or unevenly worn pads on a caliper is a good sign pressure is not being applied evenly. Since the same master cylinder feeds all brake calipers and their pistons and assuming a brake line isn't pinched/crimped -- which could result in the caliper getting less pressure -- suspect #1 has to be one piston in the caliper is binding for some reason and if a multi-piston caliper one of the pistons isn't doing its fair share work.

The portion of the pad against which this incorrectly operating piston pushes against experiences little use and thus little wear while the other portion of the pad against which the correctly operating piston pushes is doing all the braking and while show a lot of wear.

I really have to stress I think it really not a good reflection upon Dodge that it doesn't schedule for periodic brake system flush/bleeds. It lists service intervals for much less safety critical items but to not call for a brake fluid flush/bleed is just crazy.

A result is a fair amount of these cars are going to manifest brake system issues related to letting the fluid remain in service too long.

As I'm sure I have mentioned my previous cars were Porsche cars and Porsche called for 2 year brake (and with manual transmission equipped cars in which the clutch hydraulic system shared brake fluid with the braking system) and clutch fluid flush and bleed services. I know from 1st hand experience in just 2.5 years the fluid deteriorates to the point clutch action is affected. While braking action wasn't affected the degraded fluid (and getting worse with each passing day) would almost certainly had some negative impact on the brake hardware. I note I put 317K miles on one car and while I replaced the pads/rotors a number of times I never had any trouble with the rest of the braking system or clutch hydraulic system.

Attention Dodge car (and truck) owners: Every 2 years flush and bleed the brake hydraulic system!
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 10:50 AM
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I remember reading an article that said if the squeaks go away when you apply more braking force then adding about a 1/8" chamfer to the leading edge of the brake pad will prevent the following end of the back from wanting to lift...or something along those lines. However, I though all pads nowadays have chamfered leading and following ends?

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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:05 PM
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Hopefully, you used new brake hardware when you changed the pads. The rotor surface finish should also be addressed. Rotors should have a non-directional finish which can be applied with an pneumatic powered tool and an abrasive disk. You may also want to consider checking for runout and correcting any issues with an on the car rotor lathe like a Procut. Squeal usually occurs from metal to metal vibrations when the brakes are lightly applied. I usually use silver anti seize paste on the packs of the pads and if shims are used on the back of the shims. Anywhere metal comes in contact with metal, I put a dab of anti seize paste on these areas. Just don't overdue it and make a huge mess or get the paste on the friction surface.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 06:29 PM
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Squeal you say? it is the Bacon Hauler...are you sure it's not a...nah, couldn't be

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