I keep seeing information that says hub centric means the wheel perfectly fits around the hub and bares the weight of the vehicle. But for that to be true the fit would need to be more of a press-fit. Also some manufacturers use plastic hub rings to take up the gap between the wheel and hub, no way those rings are supporting the weight of the vehicle.
Okay, to muddy the waters a bit more, a hub centric wheel isn't necessarily supporting the vehicle weight through the hub, and definitely not by the hub alone. There's a very high clamping force created by each wheel stud, assuming that the mounting surfaces are clean and true. That's how lug centric wheels can function in the first place.
Where hub centric wheels really shine is that by having a tight fit (often a light press fit) the wheel end up centered, and consequently running true.
Of course, with a looser fit and a bolt circle that is off a bit, even a hub centric wheel can be made to run a bit out of round if one installs it "tire shop style", fully tightening one nut first.
Lastly (?), and which I also probably should've brought up much earlier, the minute discrepancies in the wheel studs' diameters does absolutely nothing to help accommodate a difference in bolt circle and the wheel's hole spacing.
There's more to it than if the studs fit through the holes when using conical lug nuts.
For obvious reasons, regardless of stud diameter, once the taper of the lug nut reaches the corresponding taper in the wheel, the stud will be forced to center in the hole. In other words, bend.
That the two tapered surfaces won't quite seat against each other as intended doesn't exactly help anything.
Those who insist on using mismatched wheels would be better off with a hub centric wheel and flat lug nuts with washers. With wheels made to or machined to accept that style of lug nut, of course.