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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, im picking up a lightly used driveshaft (less than 2,000 mi). Wanted to know if there were any signs to look for before i finalize the deal. Takeoff from a hellcat so i know someone put it through its paces. Going to check it out at the end of the day. Any ideas much appreciated

 

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That's cool , I would really like to have a new aluminum or even the Carbon Fiber driveshaft. I could roll with either, I think it should have been an option from the factory .
Only thing I can think of and I am sure you already know, make sure there is no delamination, anywhere. No dents or obvious signs of trauma, like it been dropped or hit up against anything.
I hope its perfect and installs easily. Post pics when you install it ( If you purchase).

Does DSS, there in Kannapolis NC. install, if you bring your Challenger there or are they just a manufacturing facility?
Good luck let us know how it goes ,
Have a good one !
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's cool , I would really like to have a new aluminum or even the Carbon Fiber driveshaft. I could roll with either, I think it should have been an option from the factory .
Only thing I can think of and I am sure you already know, make sure there is no delamination, anywhere. No dents or obvious signs of trauma, like it been dropped or hit up against anything.
I hope its perfect and installs easily. Post pics when you install it ( If you purchase).

Does DSS, there in Kannapolis NC. install, if you bring your Challenger there or are they just a manufacturing facility?
Good luck let us know how it goes ,
Have a good one !
That i have no idea, picture will be taken!
 

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I have started to hear some bad things about carbon driveshafts on our cars (especially from Dss). I would be wary of picking it up even if it were in perfect condition (if it were me).
That being said, I know of several people who have ran them in the past with no issues.


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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have started to hear some bad things about carbon driveshafts on our cars (especially from Dss). I would be wary of picking it up even if it were in perfect condition (if it were me).
That being said, I know of several people who have ran them in the past with no issues.


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Interesting, what kind of issues if i may ask?

EDIT i should also mention i dont to much drag racing and i dont run slicks. My car is actually more of a handling car, so i really wont be stressing it on my R/T’a stock motor . Im honestly getting this thing on such a good deal it costs about as much as buying a factory one
 

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Interesting, what kind of issues if i may ask?

EDIT i should also mention i dont to much drag racing and i dont run slicks. My car is actually more of a handling car, so i really wont be stressing it on my R/T’a stock motor . Im honestly getting this thing on such a good deal it costs about as much as buying a factory one
This was the result of a CF shaft on the dyno:
the vibration/reverb from the flex of the CF did not play well with the trans.


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Discussion Starter #7
This was the result of a CF shaft on the dyno:
the vibration/reverb from the flex of the CF did not play well with the trans.


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Oh wow, I wonder how much power was getting sent. Know if that was an auto or manual?
 

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Woah, so the trans blew apart before the driveshaft or did the driveshaft fail and take the trans with it? Talk about sh!ting the bed!

One piece driveshafts inherently have a lower mechanical resonance (or critical speed) than a two piece, but should still be well above rotational speeds in street driving. But if the balance is off thinks can go sideways (literally) real quite.

Also the CF versions can get nicked by rocks which can lead to fractures...although I wonder if coating the outer surface with a rubberized/silicone coating would minimize nicks from rocks?

I run a 4" aluminum one piece, primarily because I love how connected the clutch feels to the driveline compared to the stock 2 piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Woah, so the trans blew apart before the driveshaft or did the driveshaft failed and took the trans with it? Talk about sh!ting the bed!

One piece driveshafts inherently have a lower mechanical resonance (or critical speed) than a two piece, but should still be well above rotational speeds in street driving. But if the balance is off thinks can go sideways (literally) real quite.

Also the CF versions can get nicked by rocks which can lead to fractures...although I wonder if coating the outer surface with a rubberized/silicone coating would minimize nicks from rocks?

I run a 4" aluminum one piece, primarily because I love how connected the clutch feels to the driveline compared to the stock 2 piece.
Thanks for the input chally

Ide imagine its pretty hard for a rock to nick it. It would have to travel past my subframe connectors and exhaust, but definitely something to keep in mind when rocks are flying up in the canyons....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well update....the driveshaft went in....very tight.


They massaged it in at this point, but the car has a disgusting vibration at almost every speed....

It looked too tight for comfort but the guy installing it said it should fit a little tight, i thought driveshaft are supposed to have some wiggle to them. I think i may have been screwed here

Also the shifter feels very tight now, not sure if the improper install/tight fit is putting too much outward pressure on both ends. Unfortunately this didnt happen on the test drive and the dude closed up shop before i could make it back. Had to limp the car home under 40mph
 

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Was it installed upside down? The CF shafts, and DSS as well, tend to have SOME resonance, but that level of suck can often be remedied by flipping it over.

I had to double check if the manual DS were the same across models, and it appears they are.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Was it installed upside down? The CF shafts, and DSS as well, tend to have SOME resonance, but that level of suck can often be remedied by flipping it over.

I had to double check if the manual DS were the same across models, and it appears they are.
Upside down? What exactly could be upside down? The adapters have timing marks on them
 

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I will say when I bought my driveshaft, the u-joint was so tight that I could not budge it by hand. U-joints should not be that tight which leads me to believe they might have tweaked the yoke (it's aluminum) when they pressed in the joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Actually, it was stated that I might have to dent my mid-mufflers to get clearance between the 4" shaft and exhaust. Fortunately I run corsa extreme which clears no problem.
Yeah my solo muffler goes parallel straight back instead of the factoryY split.

Either way, shes coming back out tonight, factory it is


Also in regards to the U Joint, it was moving freely did not feel seized at all. But the entire assembly looked about 1/4-1/2” too long. They wiggled the trans and massaged the shaft with a mallet until it seated properly, but it almost feels like the yolk is to far into the trans and its binding. I know the 1 pieces eliminate a lot of slop, but i have 0 give back and forth on the shaft. To my knowledge, every driveshaft should have a little back and forth to work properly
 

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Yeah my solo muffler goes parallel straight back instead of the factoryY split.

Either way, shes coming back out tonight, factory it is
Good to know and thanks for sharing, might help other members. I had no clue if the driveshaft would have cleared the corsa exhaust and though worst case would be deleting the mid-mufflers. FWIW a diff brace really seems to calm down driveshaft movement as diff does not pivot as much.
 
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ChallyTatum
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